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Thread: Question.My 3 dots

  1. #1
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Question.My 3 dots

    Trying the carnauba Blue in the new Star. I'm getting the 3 dots shown in the picture. I've tried with little to no heat and they still show up. The Star has the pressure tube and I've tried at different pressures from 20-80. 20-50 does not get complete lube groove fill out..Above that I get good fill out but the dots show up.

    Not sure it's that big of an issue but the seater die I use references of that shoulder where the dots are.

    Look forward to any and all suggestions. I'm even thinking of a different lube if need be.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master VHoward's Avatar
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    I'm thinking you need to adjust your punch down a little bit. 1/8th of a turn maybe.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Could try a flat nose seater punch that wouldn't reference the shoulder. Not that the dots are a big issue. I would just live with it. I get more stray lube on my bullets, while they are in a mayonnaise jar, in storage.

    Winelover

  4. #4
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    There's nothing at all wrong with your lube. I get the dots when too warm and/or too much pressure. If the lube holes aren't lined up well enough with the lube groove in your boolit, then you must crank in more pressure, hence the dots. Again, lay the die in your hand and a boolit beside it with the holes lined up with the groove and make a gauge out of paper between the threads on the punch and the top of the die. Re-install both in your machine and use the gauge to get that same space as when laying in your hand. When I get the dots, I back off the pressure screw on the reservoir a couple of turns, but it still takes a while and sizing more boolits for the column of lube to relax, so to speak. When I get it too warm because I forgot to unplug my heater after 10 minutes, I just walk away for a little while and let it cool.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    That could be the issue. I never turn off the heater. I'll try 10 min then off

  6. #6
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    I keep my Midway heater turned on max all the time, that's why I unplug after 10 minutes. I have no way to check what the temp of the machine actually is, but it's just nicely warm. I've read here that Carnuba Blue doesn't really need heat, but my Carnuba Red needs a little, but it still all depends on the actual temperature in your room. Don't worry, you'll get there!

  7. #7
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Just yesterday, I was lubing some 405gr boolits with another members flavor of Felix.
    it was a warm day, the room was near 80...but I still turned on the heater, but just long enough to warm the mounting plate and the base of the lubesizer. My mounting plate is kind of large, which enables me to preheat the boolits on the mounting plate before sizing/lubing....which aids in lube adhesion. I manually monitor the heater as it's not on a thermostat, mostly I turn it on for 10 minutes then off for about 30 to 45 minutes. (it's an old magnetic auto engine block heater, 200 Watts).

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I'd don't know how long it took you to setup the die, but that boolit looks clean. There was a time I'd sell them to locals and I'd keep a rag handy. It was always near the nose that would get a little. But this was for a professional look. Otherwise, I felt it was good enough. By the way, unless your cranking out an all day operation with a commercial caster(that you bought on the cheap), it ain't remotely close to being worth it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chloe123 View Post
    I'd don't know how long it took you to setup the die, but that boolit looks clean. There was a time I'd sell them to locals and I'd keep a rag handy. It was always near the nose that would get a little. But this was for a professional look. Otherwise, I felt it was good enough. By the way, unless your cranking out an all day operation with a commercial caster(that you bought on the cheap), it ain't remotely close to being worth it.
    Die is set up per the book. If to say it looks clean than I'm happy with that. When I get home I'm not even going to turn on the heat at all and crank up the pressure and see what I get


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    You might check the inside of your sizing die and make sure that the lead shot that plugs the unused holes are not protruding to the inside of the die. Just a thought....

  11. #11
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devon View Post
    You might check the inside of your sizing die and make sure that the lead shot that plugs the unused holes are not protruding to the inside of the die. Just a thought....
    LOL, checked twice.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    regarding lube from magma. In the past I always noticed that I had to lower the heat with the green . You wouldn't think color would have any bearing on the temp point but I noticed the lube urn to goo must times after going red to green .

    Just something to keep in mind if you try to standardize air pressure and heat setting

  13. #13
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Just got home and tried NO heat and 90 PSI...No go at all. I guess it's cooler than I thought in my shop/garage. The lube plunger would not even return to the start position. So that tells me I need heat with Carnauba Blue...

    Another question, I have to turn the dial quite a ways before the light even comes on for the heat. I assume no light on no heat. I just turned it slowly until the light just came on so we will see what that does.

    Wish I wasn't so OCD...LOL.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    After 10 minutes with my heater on, the base of the luber is warm to the touch, far from hot. It could be that even Blue needs heat in a cold garage.

    If wanting clean and dot free boolits makes you OCD, then I'm OCD too.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bosterr View Post
    After 10 minutes with my heater on, the base of the luber is warm to the touch, far from hot. It could be that even Blue needs heat in a cold garage.

    If wanting clean and dot free boolits makes you OCD, then I'm OCD too.
    Yea, with a little heat and after sizing a few boolits I get the last one out and look inside the die. I can see a tiny tiny bit of lube coming out of the holes..And I mean tiny. I bet if I sit and lubed up a few hundred at speed the dots would go away...Now, to find a way to remove lube from all my boolits and try some more...LOL

    And yes, OCD can be a curse

    BTW, I did drop the push a tiny bit and still dots. I guess I could keep dropping it but I'm 99.9% sure I'm right on the money

  16. #16
    Boolit Man Sig's Avatar
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    I'm still a newb with my Star. I decided to remove a variable by using my PID to control the base temp. I figure once I get it right I'll be able to repeat it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    With no boolit in the die there's nothing to keep lube from oozing out from residual pressure in the reservoir. That's normal. I keep that last boolit in there unless I need to remove it to change to a different caliber.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Last night I shut off the heat and called it a night. Went back out an hour later and tried without heat. I think I found the answer that was also mentioned here. Heat it up. Shut it down. Then lube


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  19. #19
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    Personally after using a PID with my old Midway heater I wouldn't be without it again. Once you figure out the temperature you need for that particular lube the guesswork is history.
    Mike

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    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    runfiverun's Avatar
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    it's the heat.
    just run about 200 boolits through the press, it will cool down and the dot's will go away.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check