And that is a bargain!!!
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
If you have an electric engraver or air engraver, you can vibrate it out.
This trick works really good. Learned it from Millwrights and Machine Repairmen
LOYALTY ABOVE ALL ELSE, EXCEPT HONOR
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading." -- Thomas Jefferson
"The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat."
Theodore Roosevelt
NRA BENEFACTOR LIFE MEMBER
It looks as if it might have broken because it encountered case-hardening on the way out. It appears thicker where the hole isn't square to the hole axis. I have some copper wire which is a tight fit ina tapping hole for 6-48 screws, and I think heating a piece of that protruding from the hole will locally anneal the case. Or maybe I would have had no trouble anyway.
Generally fingered broken tap extractors, in those small sizes, are pretty good when the tap has broken through unwise sideways pressure, but not so good when it has been from tightness. I think there is tight metal to metal contact in there someplace, into which penetrating and releasing fluids are unlikely to penetrate.
It can indeed be significant whether it is carbon or high speed steel. We are usually advised that carbon can be broken up with a punch. But the piece of tap in there might be longer than most. I would first try vigorous tapping on the exposed end, and see if that will indent the tap enough to turn in an outward direction. That is unlikely to turn it more than a fraction of a revolution, but if you can keep on repeating that, out it will come with little damage to the thread. Unfortunately this hammer needs to be hard. With something that doesn't, a good method with a through-and-through hole is to anneal the whole thing, and cut one set of teeth off the tap with a jeweller's metal-piercing saw, which is just a harder fretsaw blade.
Welding a blob of metal onto the tip could help, but your weld will probably be only mild steel, and I would rather file or grind flats onto it, rather than a slot. Anything that involves turning it is probably better out than in, with the example illustrated. The bevel of the tap hasn't emerged, so there is some effort required to keep it going in the direction it was going before the break.
I broke a 6-32 tap at the bottom of a 7mm. hole, when I was making a cartridge straightness gauge, to attach by magnet to the little table o my Swiss height gauge. It is like a tiny bench drill, with a dial gauge in place of the spindle. The hole was blind, in marine grade stainless rather than the semi-stainless used for gun barrels. So I loosened the tap with 20% nitric acid, dripped in with a plastic drinking straw.
The best carbide or diamond drill or burr is a small one, just marginally smaller than the flute-to-flute size of the tap. But it will easily jam in the flutes and break, or gouge into he threads. What is worse than drilling out hardened steel? Drilling out carbide. What you need is a piece of K&S brass tubing, available from model shops or eBay, or a couple of telescopic sizes, to make a guiding sleeve.
There is no one method that suits all circumstances, but usually something will work.
Pay the man. Holy smokes, that is A DEAL!
A good steak costs more than that. A LOT more if you try to cook it at home and jack it up.
Yeah, let John do it. I've removed broken taps with a carbide mill and it really works well. Maybe he'll finish threading the hole while he has the hammer, for a reasonable fee, of course.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Wanted to say thanks to John Taylor Machine company for removing the broken tap for me. John milled it out and cleaned the hole up and installed a 8-32 set screw. The firing pin has an adjustable backstop now and the striker marks are proper and deep now.
Finally happy to shoot this gun again after I took a half year to mail it to him......
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson
Heat some Sand,Heat the hammer and and Tap to Red,Bury the Hammer and Tap in the hot sand allow to cool and drill the Tap out,Plug off the Hammer Hole and Drill for a small pin,Re harden the Hammer,Fit a Firing Pin making sure the pin Bottoms in the Hammer to make sure the cross pin is not under strain and quite loose.
Last edited by Col4570; 06-08-2018 at 09:51 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |