WidenersTitan ReloadingReloading EverythingLee Precision
Load DataPBcastcoRepackboxRotoMetals2
Inline Fabrication MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 29

Thread: Can someone remove this for me? Broken tap inside Uberti Hammer

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    265

    Broken tap inside Uberti Hammer FIXED

    This was a repair I read about online to permanantly fix light primer strikes in many Italian single action revolver clones. My Uberti 1875 was no exception and I was getting tired of replacing the consumable cross pins that hold the firing pin in place. They'd only last a few hundred rounds.

    I was 90% through when the tap snapped. That last little bit is always the hardest. Shouldn't be stuck too bad. Can anyone offer their services for removal? Pics below....

    UPDATE: Hammer professionally repaired by John Taylor Machine works.




    Last edited by Gunfreak25; 06-06-2018 at 05:50 PM.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    265
    I believe the best repair would be to spot weld a bead on the tip of the tap, and slot the bead for a screwdriver. With some oil and heat involved the tap should be able even finish the job i'd imagine.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    8,056
    There are several ways to go about this job, but you seem to have enough of the stub sticking out that you could clamp the hammer in a vise, squirt some Tap Magic or Kroil onto it and let it sit for awhile, then turn it out counter-clockwise with the end of the nose of a pair of common pliers. Taps usually break because the user failed to occasionally turn it counter-clockwise when doing the tapping, and chips get caught in the tap's treads and bind it. Then, continuing to turn clockwise stresses and breaks the tap. So, as you attempt removal, when it backs out just a little, turn it clockwise a bit again, and so forth, back and forth until it's free. If you continue to try and tap the hole with this tap you're going to make matters worse, as it will probably break off flush of below the top of the hole next time and be even more difficult to remove.
    Last edited by Der Gebirgsjager; 09-12-2017 at 02:39 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



    w5pv's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Orange,TX
    Posts
    2,672
    What ever approach you use be patient and take your time.You can silver solder a nut on the tap and that will aid in getting it unstuck.Pokey-pokey with tap magic will help.
    Last edited by w5pv; 09-13-2017 at 11:34 AM.
    Are my kids/grandkids more important than "o"'s kids, to me they are,darn tooting they are!!! They deserve the same armed protection afforded "o"'s kids.
    I have been hoodwinked but not by"o"
    In God we trust,in "o" never trust
    Support those that support the Constitution and the 2nd Amendant

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    265
    There isn't much to grab with pliers. And my MIG is too large to do the work. I'm going to have a local guy TIG a head on the tip of the tap, then turn it in and back out, etc to finish the job. Still open to other ideas, however.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Mountains of NC
    Posts
    790
    A little too late now, but I used to grind a V on the shank so if it did break, it would leave enough to try and get it out. The 4 flutes are the worst.

  7. #7
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,316
    I have a much used tap removal tool if you want it. There's enough left of it for one more job I think. I'll go look for it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    265
    Texas is that the tool with the 4 fingers that slip into the chip flutes? If you think it'll work for such a small tap (6-32) i'll take it!
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    2,724
    I take out broken taps with milling machine and a carbide bit.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    265
    Thats because your THE John Taylor! What would you charge for removal? Carbide would make quick work of that tap....
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  11. #11
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,316
    I found it and it's 3 fingers for 6-48. Pm if you need it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,420
    If you weld on the exposed end it has to continue thru the hole to get it out going back thru is easier as the tap makes 1/2 - 1 turn and is usually free then. Also don't be surprised if its in pieces inside also. first and foremost when removing a broken tap is to get the chips and broken bits out completely. Leaving the chips and especially the broken bits in can bind up and or damage the threads irreparably. You can drill it out with drill press and carbide drills but you need a solid set-up and almost perfect alighnment. A better way may be to see if a shop near you has a plunger EDM and have them burn it out. This is quick and after set up pretty much foolproof. Bust or chip a cardide drill and things get real hard from there. I have used carbide burrs in a High speed pencil grinder to remove the web in broken taps but a 1/8" burr in a #6 tap dosnt leave much wiggle room. I have seen heard of guys using electric pencils to chip them out but again on a #6 that deep not much extra room.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    235
    If no one has fixed it for you , I'll do it after I get home from hunting trip , Sept. 28th or later. JohnTaylor is right , milling machine and carbide cutters...

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    633
    The reason that tap broke sticking that far out is that it hit the case hardening on that side of the hammer. When you get it removed, finish the tapping job with a OSG VX series tap. They are way harder than regular taps but not brittle like a carbide tap. I use them to tap ar15 bolt carriers for side handles. THey are case hardened as well. Also use a honey like fluid or tapping wax instead of regular oil.
    NRA High Master XTC
    DR# 2125

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    smokeywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Too far west of where I should be.
    Posts
    3,507
    Seems country gent and I have had very similar backgrounds and experience. I have to vote for finding a shop with an EDM setup.
    A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms *shall not be infringed*.

    "The greatest danger to American freedom is a government that ignores the Constitution."
    - Thomas Jefferson

    "While the people have property, arms in their hands, and only a spark of noble spirit, the most corrupt Congress must be mad to form any project of tyranny."
    - Rev. Nicholas Collin, Fayetteville Gazette (N.C.), October 12, 1789

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,420
    The far side case hardening is only part of the reason it broke the other it the uneven cut it was making thru that surface. Th high side of the hammer was still cutting full depth and the lower side was about done cutting this "Pinched" the tap and will continue to as it cuts on the way out of the hole. The upper end OSG taps are HSS with cobalt and hard thru they cut great and are worth the premium cost. Also there are different tap geometrys for aluminum steel and hardened steel. I have used 2 flute taps a lot and like them on thru holes as they tend to run the chips down and ahead of the tap, Saving chip binding. 3 flutes are next and do a good job or cutting threads and center a little better for me. They also have a slightly larger flute for chip removal. $ flutes are the "standard" or common and do work they have smaller flutes and tent to flex more than the others. On tough jobs with small taps I clamp the part in the drill press ( same as a mill set up) mount the tap in the chuck and turn the chuck by hand feeding down as I go. Once entered a few turns the tap will feed itself. This works good for several reasons, 1) it holds the tap straight and in alighnment 2) It keeps the tap from flexing side to side. allowing for better work 3) it makes getting a straight true start easier and this helps alot on deep holes. Using a good cutting fluid is a big help also. I have used the peppermint water tap magic and it works but may make taps cut undersized and it has been known to discolor metals. Black sulfur oil is the old standard and works great. but is messy at times. Beeswax is normally used in aluminum, copper and brass. Another use for beeswax or any of the thick compounds is to fill a blind hole with it then tap the tap displaces the waxes and pushes them with the chips up and out of the hole helping to keep them clear. Another that works well is the waterless hand cleaners. They do a good job and can be rinsed off with water when done. A lot cut farther per rotation than they really should before backing up to break the chip, this makes a chip longer than the flutes can handle.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Posts
    633
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    The far side case hardening is only part of the reason it broke the other it the uneven cut it was making thru that surface. Th high side of the hammer was still cutting full depth and the lower side was about done cutting this "Pinched" the tap and will continue to as it cuts on the way out of the hole. The upper end OSG taps are HSS with cobalt and hard thru they cut great and are worth the premium cost. Also there are different tap geometrys for aluminum steel and hardened steel. I have used 2 flute taps a lot and like them on thru holes as they tend to run the chips down and ahead of the tap, Saving chip binding. 3 flutes are next and do a good job or cutting threads and center a little better for me. They also have a slightly larger flute for chip removal. $ flutes are the "standard" or common and do work they have smaller flutes and tent to flex more than the others. On tough jobs with small taps I clamp the part in the drill press ( same as a mill set up) mount the tap in the chuck and turn the chuck by hand feeding down as I go. Once entered a few turns the tap will feed itself. This works good for several reasons, 1) it holds the tap straight and in alighnment 2) It keeps the tap from flexing side to side. allowing for better work 3) it makes getting a straight true start easier and this helps alot on deep holes. Using a good cutting fluid is a big help also. I have used the peppermint water tap magic and it works but may make taps cut undersized and it has been known to discolor metals. Black sulfur oil is the old standard and works great. but is messy at times. Beeswax is normally used in aluminum, copper and brass. Another use for beeswax or any of the thick compounds is to fill a blind hole with it then tap the tap displaces the waxes and pushes them with the chips up and out of the hole helping to keep them clear. Another that works well is the waterless hand cleaners. They do a good job and can be rinsed off with water when done. A lot cut farther per rotation than they really should before backing up to break the chip, this makes a chip longer than the flutes can handle.
    Tapping wax is not beeswax, I believe the brand I have is Castrol. It comes in a big tube like grease. The friction from tapping liquefies it and the viscosity of it keeps it on the cutting edge instead of pushing out away from the cut. I also works really well for chambering if you have a chamber that starts to chatter. Once the reamer chatters its hard to get it to cut clean again. Pack the flutes with wax and wrap it with wax paper and push it in till it cuts clean again.
    NRA High Master XTC
    DR# 2125

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Deep South Texas
    Posts
    12,820
    You need to start by telling the group whether it is a carbon or high speed tap. It makes a difference on how you get them out.

    When you get in a hurry, don't use the right lube or try and horse the tap on through without clearing the chips this happens.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Mountains of NC
    Posts
    790
    6-32 is also the worst case scenario. Tiny tap with a coarse tooth and difference between minor and major diameters.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy Rifle 57's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Colo
    Posts
    208
    I would take John Taylor's advice! Take it to some one with a mill or send it to John.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check