I have a brass mold I want to get out the line groves. It is a .311 300 blackout mold. So I know it will be .312 or .313 after. Who can do this type work?
I have a brass mold I want to get out the line groves. It is a .311 300 blackout mold. So I know it will be .312 or .313 after. Who can do this type work?
Just about anything you want.
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/band-...icture=487#487
Why do you want to remove lube grooves?
Maybe to make an paper patch boolit?
NRA Life
NMLRA Life
F&AM
Why?
If the grooves are there you can still grease and size in one whack. You also can PC or HiTeck.
You also move the center of gravity back towards the heel...they do their best to design these rounds properly balanced.
a m e r i c a n p r a v d a
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Some folks want them machined out for powder coating but I still haven't figured out why. The moulds work fine as is as far as I am aware. Different if you are buying a new mould specifically for powder coating or paper patching but modifying an existing mould... except to larger diameter or conversion to HP or something seems like a waste to me but different strokes. I am just curious of the reason here.
Ditto on Erik @ hollowpointmold.com. I bought a group of H&G moulds, sold a few and kept a few. The one I REALLY wanted was the H&G #503. He worked over the H&G #503 and tuned it up for me. It casts like a house afire and is my go-to 44 caliber mould now. 44 mag and 44 special.
He also did some work on a H&G #51 by removing the gas check on a 4 cavity mould. Casts wonderfully now. I cast thousands at a time with both of these.
His work is first class and he REALLY knows what he is doing.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
I had some new one's made with no groove by Accurate. I did not see any difference between grooved and not grooved. I would not do it again. The molds are great but if I was to ever try and sell one, it would have to be for a paper patcher or powder coater. I think that would be a hard sell
Ditto on on Eric he did some gas check removal and hollowing pointing for me on several molds . OUTSTANDING WORK .
1) Easier to load
2) Easier to cast
3) More accurate and in some scenarios resolves leading in polygonal barrels.
4) Work better with bullet feeders
5) Powder coat better due to less sharp edges. Edges always have thinner coating and can be problematic.
Just a few pros I've benefited from.
Not being a powder coater (yet) and not having a bullet feeder I wouldn't get those bits.
Not understanding:
1) easier to load ~ why? Not arguing, just asking what makes a smooth boolit easier to load than one with loob grooves?
2) easier to cast ~ most of my moulds work just fine though a couple do hang up on loob grooves so I gotcha there.
3) more accurate? ~ why?
4 & 5 make sense for sure.
Like I said, just curious... and learning as I go.
My view... I make smooth push out moulds that produce smooth sided boolits perfect for paper patching or powder coating... or knurling, tumble lubing and shooting which is what I do with them. These moulds are very easy to make if you have a lathe. No seams and perfectly round, and adjustable weight if desired. Also allows for different nose forms to be used so flat point, round nose, HP all from the same mould.
If and when I decide to powder coat then I will make an appropriate sized push out mould for powder coating. Likely in the near future.
Longbow
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |