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Thread: easiest to cast

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    One with only a couple of lube grooves which are tapered and a medium nose length as well as a not so large metplate.
    They will just jump out of a mould.
    Loverins with lots of narrow grooves can be a pain at times till you hit the sweet spot.

  2. #22
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    ShooterAZ's Avatar
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    For me the #1 Preference is Steel/Iron, #2 is Brass, #3 is Aluminum. All work fine and have their temp/cadence preferences, but overall my RCBS and Lyman molds are the easiest to use and cast the best boolits. My multi-cavity molds are all aluminum just because of the weight factor.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I have iron and aluminum molds.The iron molds are a mix of Ideal,Lyman,RCBS,SAECO,and Lachmiller.Some the Lymans are four cavity.If I'm casting linotype I normally only use three cavities since the sprue is easier to cut with three cavities.I store the molds with the last bullets cast left in the mold since Western Wa can be a bit wet.My aluminum molds are all older Lees and I avoid using them unless it's a limited production mold in a odd caliber.The last brass mold I used came with a replica cap & ball revolver.They were of questionable quality.I have zero problems with iron molds and tend to stay with that material when buying molds.I recently pulled out a mold I last used around 25 years ago and left bullets in the cavities.No rust in the cavities and got good bullets immediately.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Brass is heavy but I've found if I limit brass to two cavities, they're fine. If I want a four cavity, I get aluminum. The vintage moulds are iron or steel.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I have to an't mit I like my aluminum mold over my steel/iron molds.I can cast for longer periods with my aluminum molds There's no reason an aluminum molds shouldn't hold up as well as steel if treated with reasonable care.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by DocSavage View Post
    I have to an't mit I like my aluminum mold over my steel/iron molds.I can cast for longer periods with my aluminum molds There's no reason an aluminum molds shouldn't hold up as well as steel if treated with reasonable care.
    l agree 100%. If you don't know how to care for them, you can get great advice on this board. Harles

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    cast iron
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  8. #28
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    Quality Aluminum molds if kept lubed properly and not hammered to death will last many years.. Probably have 25+ NOE Molds nearly all HP Aluminum and they do well after broken in
    MP Brass Molds are my favorite but you have to get them HOT first
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  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    I'm pretty new to casting only been doing it for a bout three years now . For me hands done the steel or iron molds cast the easiest . I just cant seem to get the cadence down on the aluminum molds. Have not tried brass yet . Give me a warm pot and an RCBS or Lyman mold and I will cast my old butt off .

  10. #30
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Just bought a Iron from SS the other day. Can't wait to give it a try!

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    I've never used anything except iron, except once. I've been very pleased with iron. Years ago, like 40 years ago, I had a Lee 2 cavity. Being nice, I'll just say it was problematic and did not earn a permanent place on my casting bench. I'm considering a custom Accurate or NOE but I'm still struggling with the memory of that first aluminum Lee mold. I know, an Accurate or NOE mold is a whole different animal!

    Yes, iron is heavy. Especially when you get into 4 or more cavities. But when you get it up to temperature it is easy to maintain and they are pretty tough.

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub
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    During 30+ years of casting, I like my Lyman and RCBS steel molds just fine. However, the Lee, NOE, Accurate aluminum molds are my favorite. I have never had any problems with any of them. I have bought a few used Lee molds that needed attention after there previous owner beat them up. Mostly replacing the sprue plate brought them back to good condition. I dont have to think about it, my next mold will be aluminum. If I need high production for pistol, I choose a Lee 6-cavity. If I need a custom rifle bullet mold, I choose a 3 cavity Accurate mold./Chris

  13. #33
    Boolit Master kens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I have all three, some of them are good to go at room temp.
    some of them I open and and all the bullets fall out.
    some of them I have to smack while holding the mold sideways.
    I got no preference beyond boolit design.
    +1
    My favorite mold is the 6banger Lee 45 TC. Because of bullet design, they just fall out of the mold, 6 at a time, its my favorite.
    I have Lyman, Lee, and NOE and MP of differing designs,
    Now when I choose a mold, I look at bullet design to see if I think they will just fall out.

    I have a loverin mold from a top maker, I hate it, the loob grooves make it stick.
    The best mold is the one that the bullets just fall out of !!!!...........

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    1. Iron
    2. Brass
    3. Aluminum
    4. Wood
    5. Plastic
    6. Lee

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    lol... my next mold will definitely be iron/steel!
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  16. #36
    Boolit Master NoAngel's Avatar
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    The easiest molds to get perfect bullets from, that I’ve ever used, were all old Ideal iron single cavity. They just make GOOD bullets without headaches.
    When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    Big fan of brass here - especially if you're doing something with hollow point or base pins. It holds heat and doesn't make you rush like some aluminum molds can.
    WWJMBD?

    Buried in molds until covered with mold.

  18. #38
    Boolit Man
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    I have lots of iron molds,RCBS,Ohaus ,Lyman,PH,that work great.RCBS 45/300 that bullets do fall out of.Even cut the GC groove out of it.Lots of Lees too,some good,some not so,all value for money.However a recent Lyman 314299 is a shocker.Bullets stick like glue to either side,no ammount of rapping shifts them,I had to make a brass point and blade to hook them from the mold.Steel.I believe.Have done the obvious like deburring,going over cavity with a match head.No improvement.Last Lyman for me.Ill stick to Lee.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check