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Thread: 300aac help!

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    sutherpride59's Avatar
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    300aac help!

    So I just bought an AR in 300 blackout with a 1:8 twist, pistol length gas system, and adjustable gas block. I want to load the Lee 312-155 water dropped wheel weight, gas checked with Felix lube. I want to load super sonic loads for this.

    From the immense amount of reading I have done on here I think I have settled on H110 for my powder. However I'm on the fence between it and lil'gun. Thoughts?

    My main question is with annealing and seating depth. For annealing the brass which is apparently a big part of good accuracy with this round would it be dumb to anneal the brass just using my electric coil stove top? I tried it once and it seems to work. I really don't want to blow a lot of money on map gas and propane tourches. I have a source of free 223 brass so I'm cutting and forming my own.

    For seating depth does any one have a good medium between function and accuracy for that depth? There isn't a whole lot of cast data that I can find for this round so I don't want to seat too far in and cause excess pressure issues.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    curator's Avatar
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    A regular propane torch works fine to anneal most brass. Set the cases in a pan with about 1/2-5/8" of water. Heat the neck/case mouth until you get a slight reddening then tip them over to quench. I have found that !!1680 or Reloader 7 works best for supersonic .300AAC cast boolits. Let you chamber throat determine the seating depth as long as the rounds will feed from the magazine. The biggest rombel with the Lee 312/155 boolet may be the nose-rride portion may be too large to chamber properly. Lyman #311291 is a champ

  3. #3
    I load that bullet to the crimp groove.
    Also I did not anneal my brass.
    Gas checked and lubed with carnauba red. Water dropped COWW with a little lino added. 2.5" at 100 yards.
    I'm running a carbine length gas system. Powder was H4198 IIRC but I loaded some with CFE BLK this week to test out.
    If all the bullets I loaded (some hi-tek some BLL some Carnauba red) work about the same then I'll play around with powder charges and if I can't get the load to shrink I'm going to try annealing brass or to use the new 300BO head stamped brand new brass.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    I assume a carbine with pistol gas. I use 110 with 145gr PC boolits, works fine in 10" pistol & carbine. I don't use lilgun as I've heard it burns real hot. Load some DUMMY rnds and seat where it functions properly. Do not go below starting 'book' loads with 110/296. You also may have to neck turn brass. I anneal when I feel like it, which isn't often - 223 cases are easy to get but turning & annealing will give better accuracy. Mic all loaded rnds and scrap ones with neck > 0.330.
    Whatever!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
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    If you use the brass off the good list you won't have to neck turn. Just to make it simple I use all Lake City.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  6. #6
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    ANY sign of the color RED when annealing brass and your getting it too hot. Your burning zinc and other materials out of your brass that is now ruined.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by waco View Post
    ANY sign of the color RED when annealing brass and your getting it too hot. Your burning zinc and other materials out of your brass that is now ruined.
    Wait for it, wait for it......eventually someone will post that they anneal in a dark room and when they see the case turn red they know it's done. Science doesn't lie. Annealing is based on time and temperature and they make heat sensing pastes that you apply to the brass. This way you know exactly when the case has been heated to the proper temp.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man MAGA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    Wait for it, wait for it......eventually someone will post that they anneal in a dark room and when they see the case turn red they know it's done. Science doesn't lie. Annealing is based on time and temperature and they make heat sensing pastes that you apply to the brass. This way you know exactly when the case has been heated to the proper temp.
    Yep, I use a propane torch with a camping bottle and a bottle of tempilaq

    You can take a small dab in the neck of the case, spin the case in a socket attached to a cordless drill, watch dot of tempilaq when it reaches the correct temperature it will liquefy and disappear.

    You only want to anneal the case mouth and keep the heat from migrating to the case head, softening there and you have a major problem

    If you can see the brass turn red at all it is waaayyy to hot

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Artful's Avatar
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    je suis charlie

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check