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Thread: Lyman hollow point pins

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Holden Ma
    Posts
    177

    Lyman hollow point pins

    I know this has been discussed somewhere surprised I couldn't find a sticky on the subject. I've bought several lyman and a couple Cramer hollow point molds .that have no pin . I can't afford 40 bucks for each one to send off to Eric at hollow points molds. What is the best way to DIY pins for the Lyman mold. The Cramer molds not sure if they can be DIY'ed . I've tried using drill bits and used JB weld to try and hold the pin in the wood handle I fashioned but the weld melts and wood piece falls off when pin gets heated up . So what have y'all been doing to fix this situation . Thanks for any info or help . Have a great labor day .

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
    Posts
    4,288
    You really need access to a lathe to do the job properly. Start with a larger diameter piece of round stock and turn the end down to the diameter that fits the HP hole. Make this end long enough for the depth you want in the boolit. Polish this end and make sure that it tapers slightly from bottom to top. Drill a small hole through the diameter of the thicker metal for a cross pin. Drill a hole in your wood knob to fit the thicker metal end, and a hole to catch the cross pin, and pin the assembly together. Give the cavity-forming part of the pin a good heat blue so the lead casts close without sticking.

    If your mould has the screw on the bottom for the locking pin, another hole will be needed for that pin. I usually make this pin slightly oversize, to make up for location errors, and file it flat where it slides under the screw.

    I suppose somebody could do this job with a drill press, a file, and a lot of skill and patience.

    In any case, I haven't tried the Cramer-type HP pins, only the Lymans. If I made them as fast as I could and charged $40 each, I'd starve to death in two weeks. These guys that can make a living doing this stuff have all my respect.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Holden Ma
    Posts
    177
    I appreciate the input . Didn't think about the cross pin through the wood . The molds are intact with the bottom retaining screws . Just missing the hollow point pins . Will have to see what I can measure and drill and how accurately . Again thanks

  4. #4
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    12,472
    Many of the older Lyman pins were 0.155" and had a slight taper. You could use a numbered drill to get there but a softer, turned pin that can be cross drilled is always better.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check