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Thread: More Tight Wad Swaging

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    More Tight Wad Swaging

    So, after my positive experience making .458" boolits from 45acp brass, I thought I would give making some for my 10.75X68 Mauser.
    Keep in mind that this boolit can be used in the 404 Jeffery as a nice plinking or small game boolit.
    Using fired 40S&W brass looks to be the logical start and tinkering with the core, I think I have come up with a pretty good boolit.
    Just as I did with my .458s, I looked to use some standard reloading dies I already had on hand.
    Evaluating case dimensions, I found that a 303 British die would give me a nice taper and a .423-.424" base diameter when pressed up into the die to the right spot.
    My first go consisted of the brass and a 38/40 cast boolit as a core. This produced a light boolit with not much of a nose profile. What I was looking for is in the 300gr range with some sort of nose shape. I wasn't too particular on the nose profile just yet and found that a 6.5x54 die would work to shape the nose before pressing into the 303 die to reduce the body diameter.

    Here is the empty brass. One with the 38/40 boolit as a core (which didnt fill the case very well) and one made with a 38cal lead ball inserted under the 38/40 slug. This is only pressed into the 6.5 die.



    Once pressed into the 303 die, the desired diameter was reached.



    Now. These two piece core models came out a bit under 300gr and shot shot pretty good.
    I used 40gr of H4198 and a backer rod filler on these. That gave me 1840fps and no pressure signs or extraction issues.



    I really wanted to get a better core and a nicer nose profile so I tried filling the cases with molten lead which I think helps to soften the case a bit although the non annealed cases seem to size and work just fine too.
    Getting a consistent pour into a piece of brass is not as easy as it sounds but I was able to get a batch that are close to what I'm looking for. I have an idea that will make this part of the process much easier and more consistent - will report as it comes together.
    For the nose, I tried lightly pressing the lead filled cases into my .451 paper patch swage die. This did give me a nice round nose profile which looks great but honestly, I don't know if it matters as far as accuracy at the ranges I would use this rifle. I think that for sure most folks don't have a point form die or swaging setup so sticking with the 6.5 die is a good option and I bet the flat nosed boolits that die produces would hit like the hammer of Thor!
    I have found that I can skip the step of using the 6.5 die altogether if I use this die so that is what I am doing from now on since I have the option. Primarily for a nicer looking boolit but as I said, there is no difference in velocity and I doubt anything at the other end would notice...

    This is what that looks like.


    Here is the loaded cartridge.



    And my 16yo son enjoying the results!!





    Last edited by Huvius; 08-28-2017 at 11:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Vendor Sponsor uncle dino's Avatar
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    Good job. To fill cases with molten lead, you could always drill a mold so the case sits flush under Sprue plate.. Insert case in mold, then pour it full, would get you pretty consistent results. D

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    D, that's exactly what the new development involves except it just so happens that my core mold for my .451 swaging is an exact fit for these 40S&W cases!
    The rub is that I will have to trim all of them exactly before the fill and my trimmer won't go that short so I have to figure that out.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Nice Job. Have you tried these at 100 yards.
    Take a look at my post titled ( Hope they work ) working with loading dies like you are doing.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Nice bullet.
    Ole bambi will just lay down and give up when you tag him with one of those.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  6. #6
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I have been using .40 brass, and a 158 grain .358 bullet dropped in.

    Insert bullet first into an old RCBS .270 sizing die with the decapping pin threaded out.

    I use an old square punch against the .40 brass and whack it about 10 times. Does a great job of rolling the brass in and forming the nose. I have been loading mine in .444 brass. Shoot them in my .444 handi rifle.

    Biggest time saver for me was learning to use a Lee .430 sizing die to presort my brass. Brass that falls through are small so they go back to be reloaded. Anything that takes a firm push through the sizing die ends up working well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Great work

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Huvius View Post
    D, that's exactly what the new development involves except it just so happens that my core mold for my .451 swaging is an exact fit for these 40S&W cases!
    The rub is that I will have to trim all of them exactly before the fill and my trimmer won't go that short so I have to figure that out.
    Sounds like a job for the Harbor Freight Mini Saw,,,,
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

    "Control the things you can control, maggot. Let everything else take a flying (leap) at you, and if you must go down, go down with your guns blazing."- The Dark Tower, Steven King


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check