When read some posts I see reference to using a screw driver on 6 cavity Lee moulds. Can't seem to find the entire explanation, could someone post the link so I can catch up. Thanks
When read some posts I see reference to using a screw driver on 6 cavity Lee moulds. Can't seem to find the entire explanation, could someone post the link so I can catch up. Thanks
Lucky Joe
"There's always a way."
As a tool or modification? What would the outcome/result be?
My Anchor is holding fast!
I believe it may be used in helping cam the screw plate.
Lucky Joe
"There's always a way."
The screw driver is inserted from the front between the cam and the block. Gives additional leverage, and the cam is working on steel...
Echo
USAF Ret
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O&U
One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)
what?
are you casting zinc?
the thumb lever should take like 3 lbs of force to open.
stop screwing around and get a move on.
Orange juice and Vodka.
Not my drink of choice for sure.
Leadmelter
MI
If the mold is cold it can be quite difficult to open the spur plate. I cast with only the first 2 cavities till the mold is good and warm, then the first 4 cavities till it comes up to temp.
L.E.C.
I preheat my mould, am i doing it wrong?
You aren't getting it hot enough if you need the screwdriver to help open it. It should be easy to open with just the lever. Try using L Erie Caster's progressive method or dip your mold into the hot lead pot for 30-40 seconds after you preheat and before you start casting.
I usually try to get my mold a little too hot so the first cast comes out too frosty and takes 10-20 seconds to cool the sprue. I just toss the first cast back into the lead pot. All is good from that point on.
If you try to force the too cold mold open without using the screwdriver, you may well break the lever.
I "preheat" my mold as well having learned the hard way about the brittleness of the cam lever metal (broke it 2nd time out!). I find it very easy to fill the only first cavity, cut the sprue, dump the CB, then after 5 casts, move on to the second, repeat this, until all six cavities have been filled, and the mold is hot and casting well. By this point, the cam lever is working perfectly and without undue effort.
A propane torch is a big help in making sure the sprue plate on a Lee is hot enough before casting. Regardless of how well heated I think my mold is, I give it 15-20 seconds of heating before the first pour. I've been using a Lee six cavity since they introduced them and I haven't broken a sprue plate yet.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
Yes, all the above is true,but, if you find yourself in a position of a cold mold and stubborn sprue plate knowing how to use the "screw driver trick" can be a lever saver. So before you denounce it learn it and store it away. You never know. D.C.
Dennis Eugene "You know why no one panic buys 30-06? Because people who shoot 30-06 don't panic"
FYI, about 3 years ago, Lee redesigned the cam lever that mounts on the sprue plate, it has much more leverage then the old design. If you often find yourself in a situation where the screwdriver trick is necessary, maybe it's time to order a new cam lever from Lee.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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JonB--Thanks for that bit of info. It has been quite a few years since my last 6-cylinder Lee mould, and I have always thought the camming sprue plate idea on the older moulds was a good one, but not quite fully-engineered.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
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