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Thread: Agitator for a ad pot

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Agitator for a ad pot

    Ive read where several of the turn of the century (early 1900 or Pope era) shooters had low speed agitators on their pots to constantly agitate and or stir the lead while they were casting. I'm thinking of making one to run slow and just agitate the pot. It will need to be removable so when melting to start it is isn't there. I'm wondering if it will help keep the oxidation from forming and the consistancy of my bullets. I'm thinking an auger style blade in a short tube to pull lead up and off bottom to circulate and maintain mix. My pot I ladle cast from holds 100 lbs or so of lead. Its just a thought Ive had from reading some and wondering if it would be a benefit here.

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    no...

  3. #3
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    It seems to me you will introduce more air into the mix. Therefore more oxidation. The dross that forms on the top acts as an air cap. You really don't want the impurities mixed into you boolits, do you? Proper temps and occational stirring and fluxing should keep the tin from separating.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Country gent ladle casts, as do I, so the issue is a bit different than bottom pours. I have not read about the mixers, but have considered using a "cover gas". Argon or nitrogen, but then co2 is readily available. I spent close to a decade as controls engineer for an aluminium (and iron) foundry casting major engine parts. The crucibles that we ladled from, to pour heads and blocks, had argon as a cover gas to curtail oxidation. Interesting thread, I put much trust in the old cast shooters from that era, but they were working with lead/tin predominately.
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  5. #5
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    Country Gent my grandfather used one of those agitated pots when I first started casting with a pot. Started with skillet on forge when I first cast bullets. It turned 3 rpm and I could not tell any difference between that pot and my first bottom pour pot. The bullets turned out the same.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rking22 View Post
    Country gent ladle casts, as do I, so the issue is a bit different than bottom pours. I have not read about the mixers, but have considered using a "cover gas". Argon or nitrogen, but then co2 is readily available. I spent close to a decade as controls engineer for an aluminium (and iron) foundry casting major engine parts. The crucibles that we ladled from, to pour heads and blocks, had argon as a cover gas to curtail oxidation. Interesting thread, I put much trust in the old cast shooters from that era, but they were working with lead/tin predominately.
    Actually, that's a good idea. Why the hell didn't I think of that. It's so simple. You just need an inert gas that's heavier the air. I can understand the need for cover gas over aluminum, but lead? Not sure is worth the effort but definitely worth a try.

    Nitrogen is cheaper but there is a reason they used argon instead of nitrogen. Same reason argon is used in wire welding I guess. Maybe someone can chime in as to the reasons why.
    Last edited by buckshotshoey; 08-19-2017 at 09:37 AM.

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    oxidized nitrogen is flammable.

    an oxygen free barrier is needed to return lead/tin oxides back into the alloy.

    when I ladle cast I just keep pushing the oxides out of the way, then skim them and save the skimmings.
    when I get done I return them all back to the pot and do a reduction saving everything possible as alloy and tossing the garbage.

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    Boolit Buddy fivefang's Avatar
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    R5R what's wrong with just plain(fresh) Kitty litter, it was quite a favorite with the CBA a while back ,I have not been a member for several years now , Fivefang

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    After my supervisor passed out while tinkering with my stellite welder he decided to call argon " air gone". Be careful with that stuff.
    Tom
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  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    When ladle casting sawdust, Kitty liter, or wood chips get in the ladle and plug it up. On a bottom pour your working from the bottom of the pots contents and not disturbing the top layer. Ladle casting ( My techniuque) the ladle goes thru the top makes 2 swirls in the pot and back up thru the upper layer. I then pour the whole ladle into the mould letting the exesse run back into the pot. I have used the kitty litter on bottom pour pots with good results for controlling oxidation. But when ladle casting its a little different. Maybe some bigger pieces of paint stirring sticks that wouldn't fit in the ladle?????

  11. #11
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    I have tried the kitty litter thing too. [still have it in one of the LEE 20 lb pots]
    it makes a fair thermal layer but it still allows oxides to form.
    not as many as normal but eventually they do build up and you gotta decide whether to toss the whole mess or try to save them.
    in my bottom pour pots I just let the oxides build up, it stops more from forming anyway.
    and I just do a reduce every couple hundred pounds.

    ladle casting is different.
    your trying to not get light floaty stuff in the ladle and your continuously adding gunk into the pot, as well as exposing more of it to the air.
    I skim cause I'd rather cast than mess around with the alloy continuously.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check