I've acquired an old Colt, Whitneyville Walker Italian reproduction that is rather rusty all over and I would like to clean it up to shootable condition again. What would you all recommend for this job? Chemicals? Steel wool? etc?
I've acquired an old Colt, Whitneyville Walker Italian reproduction that is rather rusty all over and I would like to clean it up to shootable condition again. What would you all recommend for this job? Chemicals? Steel wool? etc?
What I have used to remove active surface rust, but NOT patina is a paste made from Bar Keeper's Friend and ATF, used first with a toothbrush and following with a baby diaper. Does not scratch and leaves only smooth browned finish. Works on bullet molds too!
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
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Big Frontier 45 cleaner, used with oil, WILL remove rust w/o effecting any remaining finish under the rust.
Although it may look it, it is NOT steel wool !
http://www.big45.com/
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Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Big 45 and Kroil.
Kano Kroil - google it and you will find it.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
Submerge in white vinegar as it will remove rust. But it will also remove bluing. Rinse good with water & dry.
then re blue.
Fly
Big Frontier 45 cleaner and a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone
Regards
John
A good boil in an old stainless pot with water with a tablespoon of citric acid/lemishine will remove all rust is about 20 minutes.
It will also remove bluing, which of course is a form of rust.
I would degrease well first and possibly put a bit of dawn or laundry detergent in the water to also remove caked on grease/oil/dirt.
toothbrush while boiling will also help remove grease/oil/dirt.
It will leave the surface with a look of bare steel. it will take the rust out of the puts but of course the pits will remain.
Boil, buff and oil. Rust is the way rust blue is done, just help it along. No need to add anything to the water. Boil it for around 25 minutes.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
I use 0000 steel wool and oil, most any oil will work. Let the oil stand on the parts a while to soak into the rust. Won't hurt any remaining bluing.
NRA Life
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F&AM
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |