I have never played with it before.
But if I had to mess with it this would be my plan.
Drain all the lead out of the pot.
Pull the two rods out.
Using a brass brush clean the pointed tips of the rods.
Inspect for wear. Depending on the age and use, they may have to be replaced.
Get a brass bore brush and clean the seat. That is where the rods go into the base of the pot.
Reassemble and replace the two springs with new ones.
Drips are caused by the rods failing to seat properly.
This can be because of a piece of trash or it could because they are worn.
The rods looks like sharpened #2 pencils.
The seat is just a cone that they fit into.
This is the same design on the Magma machines but they use one
Thanks, i will try your concept
I have the MArk IV its the two mold setup instead of the 4 mold you have. I experienced a drip once and was lucky enough to simply turn the main rod with a vice grip and it sealed again never to repeat the problem under operation. It does however drip once or twice when it is heating up and that is probably enough to fill a mold but once its warm it doesn't drip anymore. I simply learned to index the mold holder to let it drip and not enter any molds.
My rods are adjusted equally and setup to allow a very short cycle of a larger opening.
Sounds like draining to pot is probably the thing to do followed by letting it cool and then possibly removing the rods to inspect the seats and the rod ends for wear.
I remember someone saying you need to keep the pot at least 1/2 full all the time??
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
Paralyzed Veterans of America
Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here
I've run my pot to where I have about an inch or two left in it. The volume in the pot makes no difference. Either the rod is poorly finished or the seat either has something stuck on it or it was also poorly machined. My thoughts are to drain the pot and inspect the rods and the seats.
I have to keep an allen wrench handy and spin the rods from time to time to keep the seats clean always fixes the drip for me also check to make sure the screws are all tight around the pour head underneath ive had those loosen up and cause leaks aswell
I had the same problem with mine a while back. Mine was of the same construction as yours. It almost turned me crazy before I got it right! It took some time fiddling with the two screws on top. What I found out was that they had to bee adjusted with the right tention to get the two rods pushed just the right amount downward to the orfices so it does not drip. To little spring tention and it drips like crazy. What I struggled with was also to get equal amount of lead to drop from the two orfices. But it's only one way to get it done and that's to change one thing at at time and observe before changing anything else. That way you'll get it right in the end.
God luck! I'm not touching this again until i absolutely have to.
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If you dump that last bit of lead you will find more crud under the lead. Lead is heavier but Surface Tension traps crud under the lead. I had 1/8" of black powder first time I cleaned mine. May or may not be the problem, just thought you should know that lead is heavier thing is undone by surface tension.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |