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Thread: Favorite recipe for wheel weight lead

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by white eagle View Post
    wait a minute is this thread about lead or phones
    I thought I made it about lead but stuff happens lol


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  2. #22
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    Long as we're OT our safety guy sent out a notice that We were having a shut down due to ice and snow. I couldn't believe it when his Apple iPhone subbed an "i" for the u in shut. Did it TWICE during separate storms.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcountry022885 View Post
    I use straight wheel wait for some of mine like my flintlocks and my old rolling blocks but for newer cartridges I like a harder mix


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    For front stuffers (mostly musket and C&B revolver) and BP cartridge rounds I find even straight COWWs a little hard, but I like them with a little (1-2%) tin for "casual" shooting with cast handgun bullets. I don't even know what I would do with a treasure trove of nearly a half ton of Linotype like the OP has... I'm about as likely to have a half ton of GOLD! I use my rather limited stash of type metal mostly for hard mix for competition pistol bullets.

    BTW, when the Earth was younger and Linotype was more available, the Lyman Cast Bullet books had a formula to mix Linotype to make their ubiquitous "Lyman #2" alloy for which most of their mounds were cut.

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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    Long as we're OT our safety guy sent out a notice that We were having a shut down due to ice and snow. I couldn't believe it when his Apple iPhone subbed an "i" for the u in shut. Did it TWICE during separate storms.
    Does that mean you were having a "sh*t storm?"
    "It aint easy being green!"

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    For front stuffers (mostly musket and C&B revolver) and BP cartridge rounds I find even straight COWWs a little hard, but I like them with a little (1-2%) tin for "casual" shooting with cast handgun bullets. I don't even know what I would do with a treasure trove of nearly a half ton of Linotype like the OP has... I'm about as likely to have a half ton of GOLD! I use my rather limited stash of type metal mostly for hard mix for competition pistol bullets.

    BTW, when the Earth was younger and Linotype was more available, the Lyman Cast Bullet books had a formula to mix Linotype to make their ubiquitous "Lyman #2" alloy for which most of their mounds were cut.

    Froggie
    I know but strait lead is hard to find here and I am very fortunate to have the Linotype I got when I was little my grandfather found it all at an auction if I remover right he got it for like .35 cents a LBS I know me and dad when's with him to pick it all up so we have been casting on it seance I was a kid I will buy some from time to time when I find it reasonable just to keep my hordes of it up I just bought some from rotometals because it was on sale I got 60lbs for 100 bucks


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  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Linotype + Wheelweight blends, to estimate hardness:

    [Lino-Pounds(22) + WW-pounds(12)] / TotalPounds = BHN

    1:10 linotype to wheelweights 1(22) +10(12) = 142/11 = 12.9 BHN
    1:5 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 5(12) = 82 /6 = 13.6 BHN
    1:4 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 4(12) = 70 / 5 = 14 BHN
    1:3 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 3(12) = 58 / 4 = 14.5 BHN
    1:2 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 2(12) = 46 / 3 = 15 BHN
    1:1 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 1(12) = 34 / 2 = 17 BHN

    If you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype, wheelweight or backstop scrap, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

    For softer alloys linotype + plumber's lead blends work very well:

    LinoPounds(22)+LeadPounds(5) / TotalPounds = EstBHN

    A 50-50 linotype-lead blend at 13.5 BHN is slightly softer than commercial hardball or Lyman No.2 alloy. (22)+(5) /2 = 13.5

    A 1:2 linotype-lead blend at "about 10.5 BHN" approximates 1:20 alloy and is well suited for revolver and black powder cartridge "smokeless" applications. (22)+2(5) /3 = 10.6 BHN

    A 1:4 linotype-lead blend at 8.5 BHN approximates the hardness of 1:30 alloy and is best for black powder cartridges, in subsonic, smokeless revolver loads, or with plain based rifle bullets below 1300 fps and is satisfactory up to 1700 fps with gas checks in rifles for hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+4(5) /5 = 8.5 BHN

    A 1:5 linotype-lead blend at 8 BHN approximates 1:40 alloy and is the frugal shooters best bang for the buck to make your alloy go far as possible in revolver, cowboy loads, black powder cartridge, and subsonic hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+5(5) / 6 = 8 BHN

    Again, if you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype or plumber's lead, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.
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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    Linotype + Wheelweight blends, to estimate hardness:

    [Lino-Pounds(22) + WW-pounds(12)] / TotalPounds = BHN

    1:10 linotype to wheelweights 1(22) +10(12) = 142/11 = 12.9 BHN
    1:5 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 5(12) = 82 /6 = 13.6 BHN
    1:4 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 4(12) = 70 / 5 = 14 BHN
    1:3 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 3(12) = 58 / 4 = 14.5 BHN
    1:2 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 2(12) = 46 / 3 = 15 BHN
    1:1 linotype to wheelweights: 1(22) + 1(12) = 34 / 2 = 17 BHN

    If you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype, wheelweight or backstop scrap, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.

    For softer alloys linotype + plumber's lead blends work very well:

    LinoPounds(22)+LeadPounds(5) / TotalPounds = EstBHN

    A 50-50 linotype-lead blend at 13.5 BHN is slightly softer than commercial hardball or Lyman No.2 alloy. (22)+(5) /2 = 13.5

    A 1:2 linotype-lead blend at "about 10.5 BHN" approximates 1:20 alloy and is well suited for revolver and black powder cartridge "smokeless" applications. (22)+2(5) /3 = 10.6 BHN

    A 1:4 linotype-lead blend at 8.5 BHN approximates the hardness of 1:30 alloy and is best for black powder cartridges, in subsonic, smokeless revolver loads, or with plain based rifle bullets below 1300 fps and is satisfactory up to 1700 fps with gas checks in rifles for hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+4(5) /5 = 8.5 BHN

    A 1:5 linotype-lead blend at 8 BHN approximates 1:40 alloy and is the frugal shooters best bang for the buck to make your alloy go far as possible in revolver, cowboy loads, black powder cartridge, and subsonic hollow-point hunting applications. (22)+5(5) / 6 = 8 BHN

    Again, if you have MEASURED hardness levels for your source linotype or plumber's lead, make the appropriate substitutions in the above expressions.
    Thanks for the info my Lino 1 to 5 with wheel waits usually comes out of the water quench around 18 to 20 bhn


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  8. #28
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    Ill agree with some in that ww is good enough for most. Good enough to make your gun go bang. What I have found though is in most smokeless loading harder alloys usually give better accuracy. When I doing serious accuracy work I usually like to use a 16+bhn alloy. It isn't every time but its often enough to know its the norm. So it comes down to what you want. If you just want to roll beer cans or make your gun go bang then about any alloy will work. If your looking for one or two inch 50 yard groups out of a handgun harder alloys are about allways an advantage. At least in a good gun anyway. Guns that need softer alloys to bump up to fix pour manufacturing don't stay in my safe long.
    IS this for Bullseye type shooting? If so I'd be curious what mold and recipe is if you care to share. I'm trying to work all this out for bullseye loads myself

    Thanks

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    New boolit that is heavier and more bearing surface, drop the load a tad.
    Whatever!

  10. #30
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    Outpost75 is that with the older COWW or the newer ones that require 2% more tin?

  11. #31
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    Back to the original title, my favorite recipe is 35 lbs WW ingots, 5 lbs monotype, and an additional 1% Sn. Makes an alloy with ~ 2.75% Sn, 5% Sb, 92.25% Pb. Use it for rifle boolits, and cut it 50/50 w/Pb and add anther 1% Sn for pistol boolits.
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  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Echo View Post
    Back to the original title, my favorite recipe is 35 lbs WW ingots, 5 lbs monotype, and an additional 1% Sn. Makes an alloy with ~ 2.75% Sn, 5% Sb, 92.25% Pb. Use it for rifle boolits, and cut it 50/50 w/Pb and add anther 1% Sn for pistol boolits.
    Nice


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  13. #33
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    I have a half of bag of lead shot laying around. Don"t shoot shotgun
    What is the make up of lead shot? How much to add to say a 10 lbs of COWW to harden it up?
    Leadmelter
    MI

  14. #34
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    Lead shot is widely variable depending on its intended use and its manufacturer. Further examination of the label on the bag. Otherwise I personally would regard that 10-15# of shot as about equivalent to range scrap and mix it accordingly. Others might have a different take on things.

    Froggie
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check