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Thread: Tell me about a good trigger pull

  1. #1
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Tell me about a good trigger pull

    I have never replaced a trigger before but I am having problems with one of my rifles. I am just curious as to how much a good trigger affects accuracy. Like to here how improving a trigger has improved a otherwise bad grouping rifle from anyone that has experience this issue.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master zubrato's Avatar
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    If I could be the smart aleck, changing a trigger does nothing to improve accuracy, only improves your ability to achieve accuracy.

    The problem with saying good vs bad, is that it's so very subjective with regards to what you like.
    1 vs. 2 stage, light vs average weight trigger pull, and the intended use of the gun. For range and fun, go crazy. For carry, home defense or hunting I prefer factory.

    What's the issue you're having?


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  3. #3
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    If the rifle groups bad, a different trigger isn't going to change a darned thing. Look elsewhere for the problem. Check benchrest technique. Some people can shoot well from a bench, some can't.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  4. #4
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    is the trigger gritty feeling or had to pull .. is it inconsistent to break point ?
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master Harter66's Avatar
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    I had heard of "long gravelly" triggers but until I had a Remington Model 14 I didn't really understand .

    I would say it's ok to feel one move but not know the break .

    I have a 65 and 8? Savages with factory triggers and I can't feel the difference between them and the Jeager on a Gew 98 .

    If the break is clean and under 5# until you spend a lot of time or money or both odds are against seeing a measurable improvement .
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Maybe I better look for some other problem. The trigger is on a Savage 110 made about 1992. Breaks around 8 lb. It is in 250 Savage Shaw Barrel. Groups are looking like 5 inches at 100 yards. Going to try a different powder. Trying H380 with 100 gr bullets at the moment. Have tried different brands of bullets
    I do not have this problem with any of my other rifles. Starting to pull my hair out!!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I sort of wondered about twist rate as relates to bullet weight that will work best. Did a quick Google and found this https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=125050

    This person found lighter weight bullet and less than 90% of max load of 4381 so maybe bullet weight is something to look into. I know in a Ruger mini-14 with a fast twist 55 grain was accurate enough to keep all on a 12" target at ~ 50 to 100 meters. With 70 grain 8 inch target with most in the center of a 6 inch circle. Not exactly tack driving but then mini-14 is not exactly known for 1 inch groups as it comes from the factory. Point is I got a marked improvement by changing bullet weight because the twist rate at 1:7 was too fast to be optimal for 55 grain. That 15 grain difference wasn't much but made a significant difference.

    Good luck. Hopefully this is useful rather than just providing a rabbit trail to lead you off into the weeds.
    Je suis Charlie
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master Harter66's Avatar
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    I have a 308 that doesn't care as long as the bullet is 175gr or less . Excluding vld , gmx ,ttsx I'm to cheap to even try those in it .
    Meanwhile it's 06' sister has a speed limit .....
    No logic for the why it just is .

    I know that even asking about twist is going to get blasted by someone but what is the twist ?
    Are you shooting enough bullet for it ? Or too much ?
    25s have come in twists from 9-14" . A 14 will be just enough for a 2800 + fps 87 spitzer/spire point . My Dad has I suspect a 12 that shoots 117s of any flavor into qt milk cartons out to 300yd if you do your part but even blunt 120s open up to 3-4" at 100 in a bull barrel 700 BDL 25-06' circa 1972 .

    I have a mould for a 90 gr FP if you want to try some . I might even have some on hand .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992

    About that rally point, the soap and mail boxes fall on blind eyes and deaf ears,the ballot box is manipulated,it would seem we are fast running out options....

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I would suspect a bedding for barrel crown issue. Is it a wood stock or a plastic one?

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Before someone chimes in and blames your ER Shaw Barrel, I have to say I have owned probably 8 or so barrels of that brand and they have all been excellent. If it is a pre accutrigger model, it can be adjusted down to around 4 pounds safely. Regarding twist, last time I looked all ER Shaw 25 caliber barrels are one in 10 inch twist. Theoretically it should shoot all bullet weights well.

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  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Once you can shoot and hold a good trigger say 2-3 pounds and crisp is a real help in off hand shooting and pistol shooting. Since I shoot mostly early west and muzzleloaders I do a lot with set triggers and have gotten somewhat spoiled. My 45 and my 38 both have excellent triggers from the factory but they are old pre lawyer guns.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Wood Stock. also going to check on the barrel twist.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Well it is a 1-10 twist

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I think the part of your comment about trying some other loads was a good one. Have found that I'm unlikely to hit the "sweet spot" right out of the gate. Most of my loads are a result of making a ladder of loads from low to high in about 2/10 of a grain in pistol and .5 grain in rifle. Along with a few different bullet weights. But I generally cast what is a well known "stock" bullet. Or close to it. But even there a 148 and 158 grain one is better than the other for a given powder and load.
    Je suis Charlie
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    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat I do trade a bit from time to time.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    A good trigger feels like a glass rod breaking under your finger. No creep grit or really noticeable travel. As to weight, being a High power service rifle shooter Ive shot a lot of triggers at 4 3/4 bs or a little more ( NRA rules state service rifle must lift 4 1/2lb weight). A lot of shooters handling my service rifles M1A/M14 and AR15 estimate them at 2-2 1/2 lbs due to short travel and glass smooth. As to single stage and 2 stage that's more shooter preference than any thing. I shoot a lot of 2 stage triggers and like them in offhand stages as I can pre load it t the second stage and hold to the perfect sight picture for the release. Another option is the set trigger, not as popular as it used to be but still available. Trigger pull can be set up to your likes a field gun used in all conditions maybe 4 1/-5 Lbs to allow for rough terrain and cold weather. A target gun for position shooting 2- 1/2 lbs is normal unless rules specify otherwise. Bench rest is around 2-6 ounces. Thru stoning polishing and sometimes spring swaps and adjusting sears a very good trigger can be produced.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    A perfect trigger should feel like the breaking of a glass rod when you pull it, and should sort of surprise you when it breaks.

  17. #17
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by brstevns View Post
    Maybe I better look for some other problem. The trigger is on a Savage 110 made about 1992. Breaks around 8 lb. It is in 250 Savage Shaw Barrel. Groups are looking like 5 inches at 100 yards. Going to try a different powder. Trying H380 with 100 gr bullets at the moment. Have tried different brands of bullets
    I do not have this problem with any of my other rifles. Starting to pull my hair out!!
    Simple: retrofit it with an accu-trigger.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eldon View Post
    Simple: retrofit it with an accu-trigger.
    or a Rifle Basix trigger. Either choice a good one.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    It is pre accu trigger, so maybe I can adjust it down. Going to check the bedding out as well

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I either work and lighten every trigger I own or replace them with a timney or something similar. Just about every target, varmint, predator, and big game bolt action rifle I own wears a HS prescion full length aluminum bedded block stock. The ones that don't get acraglassed in the action area and an inch to inch and a half in front of the tang. I have 7 Remington 700's and everyone set up like this will cloverleaf with the correct load. Check your action screws and make sure the scope mounts aren't loose.

    I haven't taken my accutrigger apart on my savage 210 but if it's like my Ruger Americans "accutype" you can see how I took it apart and polished it in this thread...

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...82#post4057782
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 08-11-2017 at 10:13 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check