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Thread: Tell me about a good trigger pull

  1. #21
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    The original Savage trigger can be adjusted to a good pull. I have never seen a .250 Savage that won't shoot the 75 gr Sierra HP with H414. Adjust the trigger, put a business card in the barrel channel first-if that doesn't work put the card under the front receiver ring to free float the barrel. And check all the screws on rifle and scope- maybe try another scope. And check that crown. My wife's Sako round top/ ER Shaw .250 Sav is fully glass bedded in a laminate stock and it will shoot 5 different weight bullets into the same group of less than 2" at 100 yds. Our pet load is the 87 gr Speer Hot Cor at 3000 fps and it is a deer dropper. Good luck to you- advise us of your progress!

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Leave business cards wedged between the barrel and the stock and shoot it to see if your groups tighten up. If so that that has told me I've had bedding issues in the past. The best I've done with accraglassing wood stocks is normally .5" groups and a full length aluminum bedded block stock I just bolted the action to without doing any type of bedding at all and can get cloverleaves. About a $250 investment on the stock and then it's up to finding the right load.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 08-12-2017 at 01:09 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

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    Trigger pull is usually more of a problem when offhand shooting. Shooting off a bench with sandbags the trigger pull has less effect. Some old military weapons have a very hard trigger pull, like a few of the old Remington rolling blocks with about 20 pounds . I get about one a month with a heavy trigger pull and most can be fixed. On target rifles I try for 2-3 pounds but hunting rifle should be a bit more.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

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    BrStevens, Check the action bedding and action screw tension to start with, also to the barrels bedding and tension in the stock. The business card or a playing card cut to add some up tension may help. In the channel look for uneven bearing on one side or uneven gaps. A piece of paper around the barrel in the stock can be slid to show touching points. One thing I like with the playing cards is they don't swell or shrink with humidity changes. Another place to look is in the recoil lugs bearing area sides and front should be free and back surface bearing. Another is to look for "spongy wood" in the bedding areas. A little accra Glass, or better Bisonite bedding compound may greatly improve things. I like 2 layers of thin masking tape on sides and front of recoil lug and to cut the back out 1/8" ( this gives a good solid layer of epoxy to bear the recoil). I also remove some wood under the action and tang to give a little thicker layer of epoxy. The other is on each side and bottom I cut 1/8" wide 1/8" deep grooves to give more bite to the epoxy, a more mechanical bond to it. Once this is done the shim up front to determine the barrels tension and bed in a 2-3" pad up front.

  5. #25
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    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    IMHO an 8 lb trigger pull is not conducive to accurate shooting, especially with a sporter weight rifle from the bench or any other shooting position. Granted an experienced shooter can "manage" such a trigger but even then he will not do his best shooting with it. The old Savage 110s trigger can easily be adjusted down to a manageable 2 1/2 to 3 lb pull. I suggest you do that first. Then if the groupimng doesn't improve look at the other things mentioned.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    For offhand pistol shooting I want 2-3 pounds and crisp. A rifle should have a maximum of 4 pounds and 3 is what I like. A shotgun should be crisp and 5 pounds is about right. No sense fighting a 8-10 pound rough pull. A crisp pull of 6 0r so pounds is tolerable but no more than that and it has to be crisp.

  7. #27
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    Rick Hodges's Avatar
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    A pre accu-trigger Savage trigger can be safely and easily adjusted to a clean 3 - 3-1/2 pound pull, but that is not the cause of 8" groups.

    Adjust it while you are looking for the accuracy problems.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eldon View Post
    Simple: retrofit it with an accu-trigger.
    My 116 trigger adjusted to 3.5 lbs ,its a pre acutrigger .

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Groups as bad as you mentioned are either a bad barrel or a bad scope or mounting job.

    Once we had a guy here that was having trouble with his .257 TCU Contender barrel. He could not hit a thing and the entire group touched on everything thing possible and none of them caused the problem. I suggested he check his barrel. He said it looked perfect. I said did you check the bore diameter with a lead bullet............

    He came back later and said he dropped a .257 bullet into the chamber and it hit the floor. He had barrel made by a top company using a 6.5mm barrel blank.
    EDG

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub
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    There is a lot of good advise on this thread already, but I will add my experience and hope that it is beneficial.
    As has been stated, the trigger is important, but only if the rest of the platform is stable, and the load you are using is accurate for the rifle in question.
    Personally, this is how I would proceed.
    I would bed the rifle's action, using pillars and fiberglass epoxy on the guard screw locations and fiberglass bedding around the edges of the action, and solidly around the recoil lug location. There are several really good write-ups online to show you how to do this successfully. Once the action is firmly bedded and torqued into place with proper torque, make sure that the barrel is floating for the length of the foreend of the stock. I usually use a business card or playing card to make sure nothing is touching.
    Next ensure the scope is mounted securely and the mounts are firmly attached in place with locktite'd srews. You don't want them working loose. Some people go as far as to use epoxy between the mounts and the top of the action to ensure solid and tight fit. You would usually put release agent on the bottoms of the mounts and top of the action prior to placing epoxy, as it is just supposed to fill in any gaps that might be present to provide a solid attachment, although I have seem some people simply epoxy them in place solid, with screws. Personnally, I like to use the release agent, in case I ever want to take them off...
    Make sure the rings fit the scope securely, and that the rings are aligned properly. When mounting the scope, be sure and use a light solvent to remove any oil or grease that might be present between the scope and rings, before clamping the rings on. When tightening the rings, do so evenly from side to side and front to back, and tighten to the appropriate torque. Again, I use locktite on these scope ring screws. Not much, but a little.
    When sighting the scope in, be sure and take your time and adjust properly.
    A note on the scope. Many times I have seen that the owner will purchase a lower end scope, thinking it will be fine. Sometimes this works out, sometimes not. If you purchase a reputable scope, you will not regret it later. It will aid your accuracy, not cause accuracy and repeatability problems down the road. Spend what will help you, not what is a problem later.
    Be sure and inspect the crown of the rifle to ensure it is not scratched, or injured in any way. If it is, be sure and remedy this with appropriate action or with a good gunsmith. No amount of action work or scope stabilizing or stock bedding will cure a bad crown. Make sure it is perfect.
    Now, you have a stable platform. Use an excellent rest when testing ammo for accuracy. Don't expect consistent accuracy from the top of a pickup hood, or resting over an old sleeping bag...develop a good procedure for accurate shooting of groups. Make it steady, and predictable, and repeatable. Learn to shoot accurately, there is a lot of information on the development of accurate technique available. Study it, and apply it.
    When you develop an accurate load, which is an entire dialog on its own, you then can see if a decent trigger will help you.
    If you have applied all the information above to your groups...it is likely a decent trigger will definitely help you. But, if you have not done what is above, a great trigger will not help much. It will just make the trigger break better, but the basic platform will still be inaccurate.
    Accuracy is a systematic effort to eliminate variables in your platform, your rest, your optics, your ammo, and your technique. An excellent trigger helps, but will not overcome insufficient effort in the other areas.
    $0.02
    re

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check