MidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingLee PrecisionWideners
Load DataTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2Inline Fabrication
Repackbox
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Fixing a pitted iron mould

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    1,091

    Fixing a pitted iron mould

    I have a 4 cavity Lyman 311403 that has some rust pitting in one cavity near the parting line. the bullet usually has a small bit of lead protruding off the side of the flat nose, just a little to thick to easily scrape off with my fingernail.

    Has anyone ever tried to fill pits with anything, like Liquid Steel or a Devcon product, and had it stay on the mould with the high heat involved ? Would the hot lead stick to a metal filled epoxy product?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,457
    Most home grade epoxies start to soften around 400* some industrial grades will go up to 600* Most moulds run in the 350* - 400* range so epoxy is out. A pit is a bigger problem as the material is gone. A ding can be worked back as the material is still there. Would need to see pics of blocks and where the pits are and if they can be repaired.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South of the north pole in the land of the falling waters
    Posts
    4,070
    Send Eric Ohlen an E-mail I think he had a method .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  4. #4
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    12,452
    When I first started buying molds I got a few that had a punch mark in the nose to identify cavities for orientation. If it shoots fine don't worry about it.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Fishman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Waco, Texas
    Posts
    2,103
    I used mold release spray on a couple of badly pitted molds with success. The technique was to spray the release on after casting a few bullets. Then spin a bullet in the cavity with some very fine abrasive like bore paste. The pits will stay filled with the release while the rest gets abraded away. Doesn't take too much. Then cast and make sure your bullets aren't too small.

    I don't know how long the release will stay but I have casted a few hundred bullets in two or three sessions and the molds are still working fine.
    "Is all this REALLY necessary?"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check