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Thread: trimming a straight wall pistol case?

  1. #1
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    trimming a straight wall pistol case?

    This comment (by DougGuy) posted today, in a taper crimp instead of roll crimp thread.
    Doug, forgive me for copying your post to a new thread...but I have a question and I didn't want to derail the other discussion.

    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    ROLL crimp for 44 magnum. Can't get the crimp super consistent because you will have slight variations in case length, some will crimp harder than others because of this. It is also not really recommended to trim revolver brass, you can but the gains are minimal for the amount of work involved.
    First, I have never trimmed any pistol brass, never found the need for it...til the last batch of ammo I was reloading.

    It was 41 Mag for revolver (as well as Marlin 1894).
    using the Saeco 411 ( 230gr SWC)
    If I'm using brass that is MAX length (per SAMMI) or less, I am able to crimp into the crimp groove (I'm using the Lee collet FCD) and achieve a COAL that works well in the Rifle and is right at MAX length to fit in the cylinder of my Mod 57.

    I had accumulated a bag of used brass all with "W-W Super" headstamp, but it came from different sources. Some of them were .010 to .015 over MAX length...and they were troublesome to crimp, as the case mouth extended beyond the crimp groove and onto the driving band. After I figured this out, I pulled the few long ones that I loaded, then proceeded to sort out all the long ones in that bag, I found about 100 of them.

    I figured I'd save those for "if or when" I ever attempt to make some 41 Mag shotshell ammo. But I also thought about trimming them...til I read Dougguy's comment.

    Anyone ever seen 'stretched' straight wall pistol brass?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
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    All brass stretches or grows over time through several processes. The rates may differ but eventually a trimming may be needed to get more uniformity.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

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    EMC45's Avatar
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    I trim and uniform all my straight wall pistol cases that get roll crimped. I also trim all rifle cases. You get more uniform crimps with trimming brass.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

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    I've never noticed that any of my straight wall pistols cases have stretched?
    Although, I suspect that heavy crimps may be the culprit to the used 41 mag brass I bought.

    I recall reading that they actually shrink a tiny bit...but after a few firings and FL sizings they stabilize...or maybe they've work-hardened a bit? and that stops the shrinking?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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    i guess if you want to trim them for consistency it can't hurt, I know my own 44 mag brass was bought as a bag of once fired PMC and I can see some differences in the crimp from case to case but in shooting it at hunting distances, which it is a hunting revolver, I can't tell any difference in POI from those that the crimp looks like the case is longer and the ones that look shorter.

    I also use a modified collet crimp die on my 44 mag and 45 Colt loads, I find that the added resistance against the boolit pulling crimp gives more consistent velocities over the chrony than roll crimping does. The post about the modded collet crimp die is here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post2239315

    Now I've really derailed the thread huh?
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

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    Can't say I've seen any stretch. But I trim any cases that are going to get a roll crimp. I absolutely hate trimming brass. So far it seems it was a one time deal. My 357 mag brass gets used from almost squib to full tilt. Haven't had to trim any since the first time.

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    Haven't had to trim any since the first time.
    Same for me. Once is enough and only those lots (same headstamp) that will get used in competition, particularly the old PPC course's 50 yard stage which has a very small in width 10 ring. A single flyer there would land you out in the 8 ring to either side.

    With cases of a uniform length for such shooting, you can be more confident of a uniform crimp from round to round. I don't wory about it for plinking ammo, nor do I worry about head stamp uniformity for shooting cans and brick-a-brack.
    Keep your powder dry,

    Scharf

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    I too will say once is enough. I also will say trimming brass is my LEAST favorite thing to do in the reloading world.

    The reason I trim revolver brass is that I am a certified brass scrounger and I am always "finding" brass to reload whenever I shoot. I also am often given WalMart bags of brass by friends/family. All mixed head stamps and lots. Trim - I must. Like it- I don't!
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

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    On rare occasions I've trimmed pistol brass but only when I was trying to eliminate all possible variations. For the most part, I never trim straight walled handgun cartridges. There just isn't much need or benefit.

    Now, starting with all of the casings at the same length is an advantage when you're trying to squeeze that last little bit of consistency [read that as accuracy] from a load.

    I can sometimes see slight variations in the crimp of straight walled cartridges when the cases are not uniform in length but unless it's severe; it doesn't affect accuracy enough to justify the trouble of trimming 500 cases.

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    Many years ago after repeated heavy loads, I setup to trim my 44 mag cases and only a few of them ever touched the cutter. So either they started out too short, or they never stretched.
    I have heard of 500S&W brass stretching, but I haven't seen it on mine yet.
    So I just don't trim straight walled pistol brass.

  11. #11
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    I lightly trim my pistol brass just enough to have square mouths and same case lengths on some batches this is .002-.005 on other batches it may be up to .010. I want the truly square case mouths and same case length for consistency. Its normally a 1 time thing and stays pretty consistant thru repeated loadings. Case do shrink a little when expanded by pressure to chamber dimensions then when sized they come back pretty close to the same, But this depends on how much your die is sizing the brass. I do trim pistol brass and also deburr and chamfer it when its starting out for the consistency.

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    Boolit Buddy Xringshooter's Avatar
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    Last time I trimmed straight wall brass was when I was shooting PPC and wanted to get as uniform a crimp and length as possible on the HBWC rounds. Now that I don't compete anymore I don't worry about it unless I have a whole batch that is crimping hard then I check the brass OAL to see what might be the problem. I'd reload and end up splitting cases from use before I noticed any major stretching.
    Last edited by Xringshooter; 08-04-2017 at 09:45 AM.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy dogdoc's Avatar
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    Never have trimmed handgun brass and most likely will not. Too much trouble for benefit. Rifle brass I do trim.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I believe one of the reasons Star offered a taper crimp die for the .38 Spl was to avoid the need to trim Bullseye brass. BTW, I have some that is 40 years old and have never trimmed a .38 Spl case.
    Don Verna


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    I don't believe that it's 'not recommended' to trim straight wall pistol brass. It's just that for light to moderate loads that don't need a crimp it's not necessary. But any loads requiring a good crimp to either handle recoil or for use in a lever action should be trimmed to the same length for best results. Just makes sense. Now, I've found with the Lee collet crimp there is a little more leeway on brass length and still getting good results. I love the collet crimper on both my .357 and .41.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolit_Head View Post
    All brass stretches or grows over time through several processes. The rates may differ but eventually a trimming may be needed to get more uniformity.
    From the 45ACP durability testing I watched the round actually got shorter over time. IIRC it failed around 50 reloads, and it was from the primer pocket loosening rather than the brass stretching out of spec.

    That being said I only trim 30-06 rifle right now, since that's the only one I reload for accuracy.
    My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter

    Thanks Yall!

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    All my handgun shooting is done with rather mild loads. I measure and trim brass for my .38 Special defensive ammo as I find these shells usually have inconsistent OAL. One trimming is usually all it ever needs. Auto pistol brass is rarely trimmed as I find the OAL is quite consistent. I use the Lee tools for trimming. They are cheap and work well enough for me.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  18. #18
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    A long time ago I was recuperating from stomach surgery, so I decided to trim my .44 brass. Once. I never had that urge overtake m again.
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogdoc View Post
    Never have trimmed handgun brass and most likely will not. Too much trouble for benefit. Rifle brass I do trim.
    Same here. I do sort by headstamp and adjust the dies for the slight difference in length between headstamps.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    I have never seen straight wall revolver brass stretch, but I have seen cases with canalures have unven mouths when fired. I have also see brass of the same make and lot have different lengths.

    I am one of a few who believe that uniform case length is important enough to take the time to trim all cases of the same caliber to the same length and so I do.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

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