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Thread: I need my Lee Bator Mold Milled to Remove the Gas Checks, who can do it?

  1. #1

    I need my Lee Bator Mold Milled to Remove the Gas Checks, who can do it?

    Tried Lee Bators in my 5.7x28, didn't do so well. Got a Lyman 225450 (I think) with the pointy nose, and it works much better. The Bator mold has been getting dusty. I plan to put together one of those 22TCM9R Glocks though, and I think a shortened and lightened boolit from the Bator mold will be perfect. Problem is, I don't have a mill, or know what I'm doing. Who can slice a chunk off my mold for me and remount the plate? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Central Wisconisn
    I had a mold milled. It was an aluminum Lee mold. Took it to the nearest machine shop. They did it for $10. It looked like they finished it off with a file but it was flat and correct.
    AKA hans.pcguy

  3. #3
    Our local machine shops aren't always staffed by people with good communication skills when it comes to English, I'd be nervous just popping into a place.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator

    Buckshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    So. California
    .............Fly cutting a mould isn't a problem unless the mould blocks have issues.

    Fly cutting a Lee 6 cavity to remove the BB. Of most ANY mould maker, the Lee is the most prone to issues in their blocks. How they set them up to lathe bore the cavities I have no idea, after seeing many of them over the years. Usually the 6 cavity blocks are much better.

    Below is a Lee group buy SC done for a .470" 520gr slug for the 577-450 Enfield several years ago.

    Another problem with Lee moulds I've experienced over the years is: Old Design, with staked pins is that the owner cannot remove the pins to release the handles from the blocks, as you CANNOT set up the blocks for work with the handles attached.

    With the new design and the drive rivits used to attach the handles, IF you can remove them, once replaced they usually do not remain in place. Again the owner may not be able to remove them. So for Lee moulds it can be an issue to ship them in the USPS SFRB, which adds up to about $15 for shipping both ways. More if you, (the person doing the work) has to remove and then replace the handles.

    And it there is a problem like in the SC shown above, in getting them set up square to flycut, you can have considerable time used up in just getting them square to themselves. I've had a couple customers over the years who've simply told me to cash their checks and trash them.

    Since I quit doing custom machine work last year (after 12 years of it) I can offer the above info fully assured I can say 'NO' if someone asked me to do the work

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Buckshot worked on a ten cavity H&G mould for me couple of years ago, and I can assure you that his work is excellent.

  6. #6
    Oh I figure this is going to be expensive no matter what. I found a guy that does hollowpoint conversions, and he offers a similar service to what I'm looking for, I think it costs about $50. Gotta pay to play, right? Anyone know of a round nose, 40ish grain .225 boolit mold on the market instead?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    SW Florida
    Erik @ hollowpoint molds can do it and does it in the cavities and does not flycut the mold and reduce the weight (unless that is what you want?) His work is great and bullets cast great.

  8. #8
    Yeah, that's the guy I came across before. I'll give him a holler, thanks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    A Lee mold is easy. You need a NEW sharp mill file, a machinist's square and patience. Final finish should be with 400/600/1000/1500 wet paper laid on a thick piece of glass.

  10. #10
    No idea what that guy is talking about, I'm not even sure what he's trying to accomplish, looks like he's making an anvil by hand or something.

    What would a sharp mill file and a machinist's square cost?

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    williamwaco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Dallas Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by 475AR View Post
    Erik @ hollowpoint molds can do it and does it in the cavities and does not flycut the mold and reduce the weight (unless that is what you want?) His work is great and bullets cast great.
    ERIK ROCKS. you will not be disappointed.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at:

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
    government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
    - Henry Ford

  12. #12
    Woah, that guy is excited for scraping. Erik got back to me and confirmed my guesstimate. My eyeballing measurements and quick math say that I'll end up with about a 44 gr boolit at .440", hope that works. Barrel is a 1:16 and I'm expecting speeds around 1800.

    This all may be a moot point as well, I just ran a stability calculator and got 1.55 worst case scenario, which is still plenty stable.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master fred2892's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Norfolk, England
    "Anyone know of a round nose, 40ish grain .225 boolit mold on the market instead?"

    Yes, the NOE 225107 is a 37 grain .225 mould that ends up pretty close to 40 grains after gas check and lube.

    Sent from my BN NookHD+ using Tapatalk
    Last edited by fred2892; 08-06-2017 at 12:40 PM.

  14. #14
    That nose might be a little long, but the 226-45-RF with a plain base might work if the Bator doesn't.

    The round on the right is what I'm dealing with.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check