It's easy to do, one pass through the 8mm fl die and trim, that's it.
It's easy to do, one pass through the 8mm fl die and trim, that's it.
The 45-70, the only Government I trust.
The Gospel of speed is accuracy.
And that's it? 'Sounds easy. I been buying mine already converted. I figured there was some magic in it somewhere.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
Do you mess with annealing? I haven't yet but have only reloaded my resized '06 to 8mm 3x.
I use a trim die for the initial reshaping. Just what I like to do.
wanna see easy?
get a dillion size trim machine, and their 8 mauser die.
put case in shell holder and press handle.
8 mauser case comes out ready to champher and load.
anneal afterwards.
I use a small copper tube cutter to get the length close, then size in the 8x57 die.
A small trim and chamfer after and you're done. That is the method I use when I don't have 8x57 brass.
I usually anneal all cases after as well after reforming.
The 45-70, the only Government I trust.
The Gospel of speed is accuracy.
hook the vacuum up and zoop done.
I make 7.65 argie brass by running 0-6 brass into the full length LEE die with the deprimer rod pulled.
then scoot it up into the 308 die to get the length, then full length size them in the rcbs die.
I make 7.7 jap brass by just about the same method.
the little shop vac is noisy though.
And such a pain to pull off the shelf and set-up everytime I want to trim a case (the shop-vac)
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
I do anneal mine, before and after. You're moving a fair amount of brass.
Only problem I can see is headstamp. That's y I use mill surp brass and color code with sharpie every reload
Annealing will make sizing easier and improve gas seal when fired.
Since 1962 I have used range pick up 30/06 to make 7x57, 8x57, 7.7x58, 7.65x53 and 7.62x51.
One thing to watch or make sure of/for is neck donuts, since you are converting 06 brass,
you are using some of the shoulder angle for the neck,
which as a normal rule, the shoulder angle/brass with be thicker,
which needs to be removed for safety.
Check some reformed fired brass, not sized,
and see if the bullet will slide into the case freely,
if it hangs up, check the depth of the bullet against the case mouth etc.
That will tell you what you need to known,
and also check the case capacities against standard OEM formed cases,
you could also have less case capacity with the reformed brass -vs- OEM brass etc.
Tia,
Don
I use tubing cutter first then size a little at a time thru 8 mm fl sizing die. I anneal before and after sizing
I used this die to form and mark, then a harbor freight bench top (2 inch) chop saw with metal cutting blade to cut. Then back into the die for a bit of final file work to get exact length. Followed by 8mm size die as part of normal loading BUT with some extra lube for inside the case neck.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/77...SABEgL9V_D_BwE
Die is available a variety of places this was just top of google search.
Anneal then trim as normal.
I have not tried anneal before but am going to. As others noted it can be a stiff piece of brass being worked and I think anneal before rather than only when finished would help.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.
Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat
I've gotten lazy when trimming that much brass. I set my dial calipers to the correct length and scribe a line around the neck where I want to trim to, then take it to the bench grinder and use the coarse wheel to grind it down close to the line. It's really fast, takes just a few seconds. The I use the Lee trimmer in a cordless drill to finish the last little bit of trimming.
I run the 30-06 brass through a mini metal lathe trimming it to length then resize it to 7.7x58 for my Arisakas. Takes about 30 seconds to set a piece of brass up in the chuck and trim to length.
Must be cause it's fun ? Privi brass is great and has correct headstamp. An 8x57 made from a case headstamped 30-06 WILL chamber in an 06' ---- KA BOOOOM !
I don’t really consider that for myself, but maybe I should for others. I have 8mm brass with all kinds of headstamps. I identify ammo generally by sight, not headstamp. I would no more mistake an 8mm round for 30-06 as I would a 45 for a 9mm.
A long time ago for a bit of a joke I gave a friend a box of .243 hunting ammo for a birthday gift. They were reformed from a wide variety of calibers and each had a different head stamp. His dad got upset and told him to throw them away. I assured him they were safe to shoot but he would have none of it. After he explained I saw his point. The extended family all hunted and had quite a variety of rifles. If my friend wasn’t careful, someone who didn’t know ammo by site like we do was bound to get ahold of a round or two and shove them in the wrong gun.
Sometimes I forget that not everyone can tell a piece of 9mm brass from .380 at a glance, in the dirt from 20 feet away!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |