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Thread: 351 wsl

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy 380AUTO's Avatar
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    351 wsl

    Hey guys looking for some info on what might be a good parent case to form 351 WSL brass from. I know 357 MAX is what people turn down to come close but that's uncommon within itself. I have heard of people cutting down .223/5.56 successfully can anyone here that has done it chime in and share their experiences? Thanks
    Proud to serve, U.S. Army Infantry

  2. #2
    Boolit Master reed1911's Avatar
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    We used .357 Max in the past, but since Jamison started making it, it is easier and less expensive to use it. It is all dependent on what your time costs. It could be made from some rimless brass, but it will need to be larger than .223 head since you need a rim of .400 to .405 for proper function and cycling.
    Ron Reed
    Oklahoma City, OK

  3. #3
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    I just made a few from 360DW brass, but you need a lathe for the head work.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by reed1911 View Post
    We used .357 Max in the past, but since Jamison started making it, it is easier and less expensive to use it. It is all dependent on what your time costs. It could be made from some rimless brass, but it will need to be larger than .223 head since you need a rim of .400 to .405 for proper function and cycling.
    This is true. The hard part of loading for it now is dealing with the undersized .35 caliber bullets, that's a lot of sizing for a standard bullet.

    I kind of wondered about making bras from ordinary .357 magnum brass and just accepting that it would be short like shooting .38 Specials in a .357 Magnum. Probably would load light loads that wouldn't cycle it, but the way a 1907 slings brass, that might not be a bad thing.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master reed1911's Avatar
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    The .351" bullets are not a problem, we have them in stock and there are others that make jacketed as well as cast. I prefer the jacketed in this caliber.

    I've never tried using .357 mag brass, but if you are going to do the work on the brass to make it fit, you may as well make it right. You can then adjust the load power to ameliorate the ejection distance.
    Ron Reed
    Oklahoma City, OK

  6. #6
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    but the way a 1907 slings brass.
    This is usually due to a worn buffer. Numrich had some replacements about a year ago, not sure now. Kind of a pain to change but well worth it.
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

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    Well, I got around the undersized bullet thing by getting a mold for it that drops them at .352, I rarely use store bought bullets anymore.

    I'll have to see about buffer replacement.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    There is a great book (but hard to find and expensive) called "The Forgotten Winchesters" by Henwood that has a ton of info about the 1905, 1907, and 1910. There is also an author that has carried the torch from where the Henwood book left off but I cant remember his name, I do have the book and there is a lot of good info in it on just the WSL's. I will see if I can dig it out and post the name of the author.
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I use 357 mag brass (reduce the head with a file and drill press) with 19 gr IMR 4227 and .352 bullets.
    The bullet compresses the powder slightly. A crimp holds it in place. The cases eject 99.5% of the time.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I think the book Maxreloader refers to is: "Winchester Model 07 Self-Loading .351 Caliber: It's Past and Future with Modern Brass, Bullets and Powders" by Leonard Speckin. I bought a copy, might have been off eBay. Has some good details on how to take these guns apart and put them back together. Not to mention the reloading stuff. I posted earlier in another thread that I had bought new Jamison brass in this caliber. I think from Cheaper than Dirt. I didn't like cutting back .223's and I am not set up to turn off rims and things like that. The Jamison seem to be good quality. Too bad the guns throw them all over the place.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    BuffaloArms had this ammo and 351 diameter bullets very cheap a year ago. I bought them out...

  12. #12
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    Thank you Cuz! That is the book I was talking about.
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy 380AUTO's Avatar
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    Thanks guys guess it's not as easy as I thought to form brass for this old rifle.
    Proud to serve, U.S. Army Infantry

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Try the 357 mag brass. Put the case mouth in a drill press or just a drill and hold a file to the rim edge as it spins. Take measurements until its the right diameter. I did not cut an extractor groove. I use 38/357 dies. It's pretty easy and fast. I bought a box of loaded ammo online and pulled several to measure the powder charge. It varied from 17 GRS to 21 GRS. That's when I started loading my own.

  15. #15
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    I think I bought my brass from graf&sons it wasn't too badly priced and they had plated bullets real reasonable.
    die set I have also [rcbs]
    I've only had mine for 5-6 years now one day I might remember to get it out and shoot it.
    I think I have a box of factory ammo somewhere here too, but I hear they are real bad about cracking the cases when fired and need to be pulled down and annealed if you want to use them again.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy 380AUTO's Avatar
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    Thanks gentleman guess I'll bite the bullet and order some brass for this oldie.
    Proud to serve, U.S. Army Infantry

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    My 07 works just fine with .223 brass trimmed to 1.360. I use a Harbor Freight mini chop saw to cut and then finish up on a case trimmer. Then, open up the case to .351 specks for bullet fit. I understand that not all 07's function with the .223 brass though. Some do and some dont. Cutting down rims on .357 was not for me, not having a lathe. After getting hold of some original .351 brass, I wanted some as remaking .223 brass is not a piece of cake. So I ordered 200 rounds from Grumpa, he makes them from DW360 parent case. His price was good. At this time, Midway, Graf and Buffalo do not have any Jamison .351 brass available. /Chris

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I recently bought a second WSL .351. I changed the recoil spring and buffer and fired off some .351 rounds made from .357 brass. Works as well as my first rifle.
    To reduce the diameter of the rim, I put the case into a drill press, run the press and hold a file to the rim until it reduces it to the correct diameter. Takes about 2 minutes per case. You could use a hand drill also (if you don't have a drill press). You don't need a lathe, or an extractor groove.
    I've bought brass from Grumpa (35 Rem). He does good work.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Glad to hear you bought another 07! I have two drill presses, a big one and a little one. I used one to file down the rims. I just dont like how long it takes. The ones I made, I didnt cut an extractor groove either. They fit the mag and ejected fine. Just dont like doing it that way as I have plenty of 357max brass. If for some reason my gun stops likeing .223 brass I might change my operation. I also ordered an AR brass catcher. It works great on my 07. /Chris

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    I tried the 357 Max brass but for some reason, the case mouths kept getting dented and folded over. It doesn't happen with the shorter 357 Mag brass. I bought an AR brass catcher and it's not bad, though I might modify it a little.
    I found the "new" 351 (made in 1908) in a small shop in northern NH for $200. I couldn't walk away. They also sold me a mag for the 401 for $25.00.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check