MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersSnyders JerkyRepackbox
Titan ReloadingLoad DataInline FabricationReloading Everything
Lee Precision RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Pinned Block Warp

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    the Ark
    Posts
    5,270

    Pinned Block Warp

    On a .58 minie mold, appears that when the pins were pushed in that the block half was made ever so slightly convex, just enough to screw things up.
    Lacking a hydraulic press I'm considering bench vise, mallet, whatever.
    What's a better way to go about it?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    west central Illinois
    Posts
    7,703
    Not certain that is doable using ordinary means.
    I tried to straighten a H&G 6 cavity one time That was about .002 out in the center. I broke a very good 8 inch bench vise without any effect on the mold. I also tried hammers with boards as a buffer so as not to dent the mold blocks. I even went so far as to run over it with my truck with the ends of the block supported all to no avail.
    Those molds are tough.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    the Ark
    Posts
    5,270
    Whoo boy. That's dedication.
    I'm thinking that if reversing the effects of the factory isn't workable with applied pressure then I'll drive the pins on out and flatten the face by the slow hand. That will mean the cavity is a little wonky but at least I'd have a starting point for further application of TLC.
    Come winter time such things take the place of jigsaw puzzles and Red Skelton reruns.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Western Pa.
    Posts
    791
    If the edges are higher than the cavity, how about working the edges down with fine emery cloth?

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,562
    The cavities may become slightly egg shaped flattening the blocks faces. This is also fixable after blocks are mated by lapping the cavities back to true size and roundness. It takes a steady hand a lot of pressure and heat to get the mehanite blocks to move even a little bit and if not done correctly they may crack or break instead of move. Work them flat on a surface plate and sand paper. Then mark one edge and lightly lap the surfaces together switching ends every so often. Check vent lines to see if they need to be deepened a little. Cast a few good bullets and measure Id these to the cavity they come from. Then use these to lapp the cavites back to round and size.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check