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Thread: Need directions on antler handles

  1. #1
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Need directions on antler handles

    Hey Guys, I'm new to this and trying to learn what I can. Have a friend up north that is going to be sending some elk antler to make scales out of. I have been perusing the web but would like to hear your ideas. Will be a split style shank to began with.

    Another question is...can the inside of an antler be made into a attractive scale? Say the antler is quite large and you cut the outer edges off. Or am I way off base...

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I've never worked with elk. I've worked with whitetail antlers though. They are harder/denser towards the edges, and softer/porous towards the center. From the pictures i've seen of elk, it is similar but worse. So you can use the inner of it, say, if you want to be just below the bark. But you cannot take a 1.5" thick slab and cut numerous 1/4" thick scales from it and get 5 decent scales (less the kerf slots).

  3. #3
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Thanks, that answers a lot of questions.

    I'll take all the help I can get

  4. #4
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Hey MyFlatline, A major concern when grinding on bone / antlers is to always wear a quality dust mask. Be sure the mask does not leak around the edges. Bone dust is bad stuff. Don't breathe it.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Antlers for scales

    MyFlatline, here are some pictures of knives with deer horn and what it looks like when all the "bark" is taken off. Should the pith be exposed, it should be stabilized with epoxy/ or resin. The pictures of the blades are not good. The cut lines are glared.
    One knife has brass pommel, one has nothing, and one shows scales shape. These knives could be named "Cut and Shoot Texas Pig Stickers", but they are not named as yet. The blades are hand forged of 5160 spring steel. They will rust if not cared for. Will bend and not break and spring back. Barrick made in USA out in my shop. Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by OldBearHair; 01-19-2018 at 07:29 PM. Reason: wrong word

  6. #6
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBearHair View Post
    MyFlatline, here are some pictures of knives with deer horn and what it looks like when all the "bark" is taken off. Should the pith be exposed, it should be stabilized with epoxy/ or resin. The pictures of the blades are not good. The cut lines are glared.
    One knife has brass pommel, one has nothing, and one shows scales shape. These knives could be named "Cut and Shoot Texas Pig Stickers", but they are not named as yet. The blades are hand forged of 5160 spring steel. They will rust if not cared for. Will bend and not break and spring back. Barrick made in USA out in my shop. Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks...Yes the dust is,,,well let say nasty.. Here is my first try. While not perfect, they didn't come out all that bad either.. A skinner and a paring knife for the wife.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Very nice work,,I forgot to say. I'm not wanting to get into forging blanks anytime soon...Way to much else going on..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check