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Thread: Prepare a rifle bore to shoot lead bullets ?

  1. #1
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    Prepare a rifle bore to shoot lead bullets ?

    Thought this might be the site to find out about this.

    Eye Doc says no more heavy kickers.

    Bought a nice Winchester Model 70 30-06 standard target model in excellent shape. Borescope shows no issues, sharp lands/grooves and minor tooling marks. (This is a cut barrel correct ?)

    It was only shot with jacketed match ammo. Across the web are many suggestions to clean a bore, none directed at cast bullet shooters.

    Otherwise the consensus seems to be to clean to bare metal with something like Sweets. Then JB paste with Kroil. Then acetone followed by a product called Dyna-Tek.

    Are there better methods to get a barrel prepared for shooting lead bullets ?

    Appreciation in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
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    That method would certainly be thorough. I suspect it would be overkill.
    I think the first two processes would be enough to prepare it for cast boolits.
    You simply need to get the copper out of the barrel.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Please keep it simple at first try a foaming bore cleaner. they work very well on light copper fouling.Make sure you can see through the bore before you swab.Make sure you oil after using any bore cleaner. You can use Sweets but be careful as it is a very aggressive cleaner and must be cleaned and .oiled after use.Sweets is primarily used on military weapons that have extended use.Try the foaming bore cleaners until you see no more green on your patches and you are good to go.Then start slinging lead

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    +1 on getting the copper out. Mix up some bore paste: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm and some hoppes 9 clean the bbl till you don't feel any grit from a tight patch. Should be smooth all the way through. Slugg the bbl and size .001 over grove diameter and you should be golden. H4895 or 2400 powder as well as 4227, 4198 etc will get the job done. Get a Lyman Cast bullet handbook too. If NOE makes the mold or Lyman use it, they will work, and will shoot better than you. Best of luck and welcome into a great hobby, or should I say a great hobby that supports a great hobby.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Your cleaning method should work fine. However, even in a rifle that shoots cast bullets very accurately, I can't recall any detrimental effect on cast bullet accuracy caused by slight, but visible copper fouling.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    If you check out my thread on shooting cast through a Ruger American 450 bushmaster you can see my groups shot from a brand new barrel. I did clean the bore with sweets before shooting to get out what ever the factory lubed it with. Best group was 1.250" at a 100 yards with Lee 310's and no leading. I had tips to shoot jacked bullets through it first to clean out burrs but I started out with cast anyways.

    Here is the link
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...)group-results
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 07-28-2017 at 09:34 AM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Toymaker's Avatar
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    Suggest you DO NOT use a brass jag or brush when using a copper cleaner. You'll be getting green forever.

    I recently switched to a series of products called KG (KG-1, KG-2, KG-3, etc). They've proven to be very effective.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    In the past I have often swabbed the bore with a light application of the bullet lube to be used. Often thinned with solvent, to pre-condition the bore so the first shot does not slide over bare metal. Just enough to put something between the bare metal and the nose of the cast bullet. Perhaps this is no longer a preferred method, but I am set in my ways.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bannister View Post
    In the past I have often swabbed the bore with a light application of the bullet lube to be used. Often thinned with solvent, to pre-condition the bore so the first shot does not slide over bare metal. Just enough to put something between the bare metal and the nose of the cast bullet. Perhaps this is no longer a preferred method, but I am set in my ways.
    That type of thing is in use for 22LR rifles in that you need to shoot several rounds to get the remaining lube from the last brand of bullets out of the bore in order to see the best accuracy you will get with new ammunition.
    That technique also works for handgun usage for high accuracy/ long range shooting.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    I do the light lube with the bullet lube I'm using on my BPCR rifles as the bore has a light coat of the same lube and this seems to help with the BP fouling more than with out it. I have the patches saved from loading when I wipe the bases off. So I'm using something Id normally just throw away anyways.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Getting all the copper out is first , carbon too . After that I use a heavily lubed bullet at very low velocities for a few shots . Then I bring the velocity up to what I want to use .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  12. #12
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    I tend to agree with most of the others here. Don't over think it too much. I like the products from Boretech for copper removal. http://www.boretech.com/categories/gun-cleaners
    Make sure to use nickel plated jags. For heavily copper fouled bores, Kroil and JB bore compound.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    I have used Bore Tech eliminator and copper eliminator and various foaming cleaners and hoppes copper solvent among others and found that I usually can get copper to a point and then any of the solvents stop removing it (anybody else notice that). I have read speculation that it is due to different copper alloys but I have no idea why it happens. I suppose I could scrub it with a brush to get at fresh un-reacted copper, I don't know. I am reluctant to use aggressive copper products with ammonia etc...

    Food for thought: http://www.texas-mac.com/Barrel_Break_in_Process.html

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    It's all good. I like janitorial ammonia - 10% - (not household ammonia = 3%) to remove copper. Wet it, swab it, or cork it up to keep the ammonia in the barrel. Do it for just a few minutes and then clean it out. Will lift out copper very well. Once the copper is gone, clean vigorously to remove all traces of the ammonia and then oil with eezox, fluid film or other rust preventative. You'll be good to go.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    If you have patience Hoppe's will take the copper out without doing much else.
    Just wipe a light film on the bore and let it sit about 2 days. Wipe clean with a few dry patches.
    Then apply a light film again. Wait 2 days again. Keep repeating this routine as long as you get copper.
    A brush can knock the copper out faster but clean well after the brush.
    EDG

  16. #16
    Boolit Master NoAngel's Avatar
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    Everybody and every gun is different but the biggest thing for ME personally has been getting right kind of fouling IN there. Well, fouling is probably bad terminology. Once clean, cast probably ain't gonna group as well as it will after you've shot several and things settle in...this provided everything else is in line: Fit, lube, etc.

    I have a couple of rifles that won't group for nothing until I get a little antimony wash. That's why I only clean bores that stop grouping well. Or get wet.
    When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    A lot have started cleaning to get through the next session as a completely clean bore may require a ew rounds to settle back in to consistant performance.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Gee, I shoot both cast and copper out of the same rifle all the time, didn't know that was bad. Have great accuracy with both and no leading. SO what am I to look for? If you use gas checks, isn't that the same as jacketed? Man, I'm confused now.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    The "all copper must be removed before shooting cast bullets" is a holdover axiom that may have some basis in fact as there are exceptions to every rule and belief. From a practical standpoint, however, this bit of conventional wisdom is largely unproven.

    If you find copper fouling degrades cast bullet accuracy, then it needs to be removed. If you have a bore with an undue amount of copper fouling, it probably affects both jacketed and cast bullet accuracy.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master mehavey's Avatar
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    Forget Sweets and most other of the traditional copper cleaners. You'll wear yourself(and the barrel) out scrubbing for hours and still get "blue".

    grab some KG12
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...eaning-solvent

    wet-swab/sit a few minutes/dry-patch the (now) brown crud out.
    repeat if necessary once.

    That`s about it for pre-cleaning before shooting cast.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check