pid help

[dmdracer]

I have purchased a couple pid's etc per all the info on here and have set up one (mypin) for the Lee 20 lb pot (works great)and the other is a Berme Rex C100FK02-V*AN DA.... from China ! for an hot plate.

I can not access the 2nd and 3rd parameters because of the lock thing and the 1st parameters I can get to but will not let me change the "aru" to 1 so it will auto tune !

MikeW has been very helpful and I sure thank him for all the info/experience he has shared with me however he does not have an answer

It appears the lock thing is the problem, Instuctions say to enter 0000 or 0001 when cod appears but this is a 4 digit # and mine only shows 3 digits ! Never have seen "cod"

Anyone have any knowledge about this issue ?

Probably return it would be best but it's already installed and does heat the hot plate but temp really is all over..... no auto tune !

Thanks

Dave

[dragon813gt]

If you can't access the auto tune can you access the individual P, I and D settings? For temp control you only need P and I. I tune PID loops manually as part of my job. It's not that hard but does take time. As a rule of thumb you want less P and more I. Just giving you another option instead of returning it.

[HATCH]

http://www.rkcinst.com/english/pdf_manual/imnzc17e3.pdf

[dmdracer]

Dragon813gt.... yes I can access P I D but have no idea how to change to what, I have not tried to change anything in that area but as I stated above.. I can get to "ARU" but it will not let me change anything... #'s blink but will not input anything!

Hatch... thanks but I have that, if you look on there under parameter type...lck shows 4 digits, 0000, 0101 and 0110....mine shows 3 digits and I can change that to 100 or 001 but I hit set and it returns to 000.

I thank you both for trying to help.

[Mike W1]

http://www.rkcinst.com/english/pdf_manual/imnzc17e3.pdf

That pdf doesn't do the man any good if he's only got a 3 digit display instead of a 4. My suspicion is that the Chinese knockoff of a Rex doesn't have any 2nd and 3rd parameters to enter into. Be nice if someone could confirm that thought that has one of the Chinese models. Only suggestion I can make and I don't have any real solid basis for this is to set LCK at 100 and see if that'll let you get any further after you press the SET button. As far as autotune that is really most likely getting to ATU and changing the 0 to a 1 as 001. Hit SET and the AT light should flash.

[dmdracer]

Mike, you posted: "Only suggestion I can make and I don't have any real solid basis for this is to set LCK at 100 and see if that'll let you get any further after you press the SET button."

I tried that too, will not "set" when I change and hit set !

"As far as autotune that is really most likely getting to ATU and changing the 0 to a 1 as 001. Hit SET and the AT light should flash."

yeah, I can get there and try to change to the "1" but it will not let me input any number ! Does blink, just will not change using the up or down arrows.

I did send a message to the seller on ebay but have not heard anything back yet.

any other ideas

[dragon813gt]

Dragon813gt.... yes I can access P I D but have no idea how to change to what, I have not tried to change anything in that area but as I stated above..

P < I
I > P
D=0

I don't know what the values currently are. I'd have no issue changing the values and seeing how it reacts. But I'm also used to doing this and making the appropriate changes. I normally tune for temp control. The P value will be a small number, sometimes less than one. While the I will be whole numbers, sometimes well over one hundred. It's a lot easier to explain w/ a working controller in front of you. This site explains the functions is fairly simple terms: https://innovativecontrols.com/blog/...ning-pid-loops

[Mike W1]

ATU is normally 0. The only thing to change it to is 1. Hit set and that's all you do. The AT light should start flashing and will until it is done autotuning.

If when you're getting to ATU and it's showing 001 already it is in Autotune mode. Gotta wait it out, it takes awhile.

[HATCH]

sorry should of read the post closer.

Looks like the problem has been around a while

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icsCkCUhAbc

I just spent 30 mins reading 7 pages concerning the chinese clones.
There isn't a fix to make autotune work.

Go to ebay and look for this seller - > golanderllc

You can look thru their listings and find what you are looking for.
I have used this company on all of the PIDs I have used on my panels.

something like item # 281855959679

[dmdracer]

I thank you all for the effort in trying to resolving the issues of this China made pid's.

My neighbor does not want to return the item for me.... he is a prick sometimes... long story ! he would rather give me my money back, which I declined so I have learned a couple lessons and will just keep it.

It does heat up my hotplate but temp is all over but does keep the mold hot so not a total loss

Maybe someone will find the answer and post but I think the answer is... don't buy the chinese pid's !

Dave

PS: My 3rd one I purchased which turned out to be the Rex with the "m" instead of the "v"... relay verse ssr, is being converted to use the ssr.

Saw this on youtube, hopefully this will work

[HATCH]

Depending on your application, the relay ones work just fine as well.

[dmdracer]

Hatch, can you tell me how the relay works anyway ?

what does it trigger... or how does it trigger ?

I'm stupid about electronic stuff,been wondering how they work ?

I suppose it could be used on a 2nd pot and or switched out to a convection oven for PC as for application.

Thanks

[HATCH]

Basically there are three terminals.
Common, NO , & NC.
You hook your source power on common, then your load on NO.

The PID has a SSR output that is internal.
It energizes a internal relay coil that switches the contacts.
Relays are typically rated for 10 million cycles on average before failure. (Mtbf)

SSR are rated between 50 million and 100 million.

So relays will fail sooner then SSR will.
This has to do with the fact relays have moving parts and SSR don't.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dmdracer]

thanks Hatch for the info, but what about the "NC" ?

Now I'm wondering if removing the relay and jumping across it's terminals will actually work ?

The internal ssr ? ? I was going to use a ssr like all the others ! Would that mean there will be 2 ssr's ?

I'll report back how it works out when I get it back.

[dmdracer]

Ok, I decided to not convert the "relay".

Hatch told me how to wire the relay and I have to say it is working perfectly ! Thank you.

The auto tune works perfect also.

I still have the Chinese one and have had conversations with the seller.... he wants to send 1/2 the money back and I can keep the unit and "find a professional to fix".

He says he never heard of that problem before, I'll see if he will send me another one then ???

[Mike W1]

Why not keep it then and if you want another get a Japanese one this time.