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Thread: Vz24 35 Whelen

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Vz24 35 Whelen

    So this is a rifle I've wanted for quite a while and until recently I hadn't had the inclination to building it myself, much less the funds to buy one! After studying and reading quite a bit and finding major components for decent prices I figured I would give it a try.

    Vz24 action
    Midway Green mountain 35 whelen short chambered barrel.
    Parker hale hinged bottom metal. (Numrich)
    Ruger barrel band and front sight. (Brownells)

    Built and acquired a few new tools along the way.
    Built barrel vice
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    bought action wrench, carding wheel (did not use).

    All major parts in hand I disassembled donor action which already had rails widened and bolt handle forged. Crud cleaned out (re blue will be done). Polished bolt it was a bit dingy. Test fit barrel to receiver. Couldn't turn it into the action.
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    At this point I got scared. A gunsmith friend suggested I put in bbl vice and try turning with a couple of fingers only this worked. I now had a barreled action. Sight was way to small to fit but managed to use sockets after anealing the band on it to stretch to fit and a locking 3 jaw puller to press the sockets through. A bit of file work and sanded/polished to 400 grit. Leveled action and sight and marked for sight placement. Barrel band placed and fitted with hand file work. Same markings used for reference on re-assembly.Reamer rented from elk ridge reamersas well as oversized pilots. Barrel and action separated.

    Both polished to 400 grit. Receiver had what looked like grinder marks presumably to remove crest. These were polished down to a smooth ring.
    Barrel stamped with caliber marking. Everything sanded to 400 grit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I won't go into details about the rust bluing as there are many threads on this here on the forum, one thing I will say is I was thoroughly impressed with steam chamber instead of boiling per rustblue website build instructions.

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    I really like the results I've gotten on two projects using andys slow rust blue solution.

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    Barrel and action back together, slight difference in level on shine but I can live with it. I'm guessing it's the different alloys that etched at different rates. 7 cycles on both.
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    More to follow
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-26-2019 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Additional picture

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Going back to the bluing part I ran into an issue while doing the receiver. I got where I thought I was done with it. Bright sunlight revealed the infamous plum brown I have read much about. Well it turned out on this piece that it wasn't the hard alloy so much as the brush I was using. I Noticed early on carding the barrel that the brownels hand carding brush that in order to remove the loose stuff it was scratching the blue. I went back to plain degreased 0000 steel wool with just enough pressure to get all the fuzz off. There was a spot on the receiver that was a bit dull for lack of a better word. I proceeded with the brush which I had used on all previous cycles and realized I was seeing the plum again this time in artificial light inside. I stopped immediately and finished that cycle with steel wool. It blended out quite nicely in the end without having to strip and start over.
    Water was distilled.
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-19-2017 at 08:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I too did a pair of Mausers in the .35 Whelen.
    My rifle is a old 98/22 and my friends from a previously sporterized Argentine 1909.
    Both were barreled with Adams Bennet barrels and Boyds stocks.
    Both stocks were the standard Pre finished models.
    But I wasn't satisfied with the way mine was shaped or finished, so I stripped it down and reshaped the stock and sharpened the edges of the cheek peice and dressed it up with a Grip cap and Ebony Nose Cap.
    Since these photos were taken I added a Hinged floorplate and magazine box that I made and I have the Timney trigger and both sport Leupold scope moints and I welded on the custom bolt handle and of course they are Slow Rust Blued
    Both a really fine shooters and very accurate, especially with cast loads.
    Both of us are older than Dirt, so Iron sights just don't work for us any more.

    And Yes, Those are both the Same Boyds stocks.
    A little refinishing really dresses them up.
    Last edited by LAGS; 07-18-2017 at 07:24 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Want to have iron sights on this one for the challenge more than anything. Have been working to improve my accuracy with factory and peep sights. I'm glad I undertook this project. I rather like that stock you cleaned up. Did you add the pachy recoil pad? I haven't decided on a stock for this one yet. Considering Richards microfit for it. Keeping an eye out on most everyone for a useable bargain even if I have to strip and reshape it. Got a Lyman 57 from Phineas bluster. Was going to use a Williams but prefer the fit of the steel Lyman. Plus I want this to be a heavier rifle and every ounce helps in that aspect of the build.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Funny you mentioned the recoil pad.
    When I ordered the Pachmyer pad for the rifle it was back ordered for several weeks.
    So I had that one for a shotgun I was building, so threw it on for the time being, and never got around to changing it out.
    I need to put that on my list of things to do.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Nicely done! I'm really impressed with the caliber stamping as none of mine ever look that good. What did you use and how did you use it?? Looking forward to seeing the sights installed.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Rustyreel-That is th action I picked up from you. I used a set of eBay stamps I simply drew the line with pencil then instead of using the edges of the stamps I used the base of the letters the spacing is slightly off, and it did go crooked but the crooked was straight if that makes sense. The numbers are 1/8" and letters are 3/32" I was trying to figure out why the N was slightly muddy. Turns out there is a piece missing in the diagonal bar of it right in the middle. I had to strike each stamp 4 times due to the compound curve of the barrel. Once set on line I struck once. Reset in that mark impression and repeated for the other three "corners " of each stamp. Sunlight in shop door, +5 fluorescent lights makes stamping it a bit easier.

    Lags- I think that pad looks good on it as long as it hasn't made the LOP to long.
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-19-2017 at 12:36 PM.

  8. #8
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    I actually need the LOP longer, that is why I added it on.
    I have a long neck and arms like a Gorilla, so it fits me fine with the scope.
    But the same stock, and pad dimentions doesnt work for me with iron sights.
    That stock Drop in the comb is made for a scope.
    My friend is from South Africa.
    He was actually a comando in the Rhodesian army during the civil war in the '70s
    He is use to and prefers Iron sights.
    But has resigned to the fact that his eyes aint what they use to be.
    But I bet he will call me some day in the future and have me put Iron sights on it for his Grandson.
    Got to teach these kids right , Start with the Basics.
    But he can still outshoot me any day of the week, even with my rifle.
    I am a builder, not a shooter.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    The stock pad and comb height has been a dilemma for me. I'm a short feller. I actually like the ruger compact magnum .308 I picked up this year for that reason. It was designed on open sights. And has a short factory length of pull. My grand father taught me on open irons and I got decent but never good. Then of course "get up to be a big boy, with big boy toys" I lost what I learned back then and am having to pick it back up. I can say however I was the only one in the family until 4 years ago that didn't wear glasses. My script is pretty weak but I can still tell the difference. I had some prescription ANSI z87 compliant glasses made last year for working in the shop and shooting. Pretty big difference for me. Same friend that recommended the turn with fingers only on the action wrench will be tapping the receiver for the Lyman 57. When I'm ready.
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-23-2017 at 12:07 PM.

  10. #10
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    Good job. A Whelen is an excellent caliber to have around in case something big and burly needs killin'!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Were you building this rifle for Hunting ?
    I originally built mine for and Elk Hunt and a 25-06 for a Deer Hunt in the same year.
    But I really like shooting the Whelen with Cast loads.
    And except for really large game at over 200 yards, I feel the cast boolits will do the job.
    I have the molds for 200 , 245, and 280 grains right now, and am considering gettin a NOE Thumper that is in the 300 grain range

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackwater View Post
    Good job. A Whelen is an excellent caliber to have around in case something big and burly needs killin'!
    Thank you sir more pics coming just have to have time and money lol.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    Were you building this rifle for Hunting ?
    I originally built mine for and Elk Hunt and a 25-06 for a Deer Hunt in the same year.
    But I really like shooting the Whelen with Cast loads.
    And except for really large game at over 200 yards, I feel the cast boolits will do the job.
    I have the molds for 200 , 245, and 280 grains right now, and am considering gettin a NOE Thumper that is in the 300 grain range
    One day same as finishing this rifle the time and money will be there for elk and possibly moose. I figure by that time I should be very familiar with this rifle and it's ballistics. I started picking up Hornady supreformance 200 gr J words mostly because of the price, at gander mountain when it went down to 40% off and paying $20.95 a box. Before I could get the last few someone came and cleared them out of everything they had an did the same in Round Rock Texas as I found out when I called before making the drive. Still haven't gotten my Noe ranch dog figured out for my 30-30 but that's a whole other discussion.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Has anyone used this stock? I like the looks and features for the price. Yes I want the hog back comb.
    https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1049700.htm
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-23-2017 at 02:22 PM.

  15. #15
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    I did build a Mauser for a guy a few years back using that stock.
    It was a better price back then, but what isnt.
    The guy was from Poland and prefered the the Hump back European style.
    I liked it, But he had me refinish it to a High gloss Poly Finish , and Glass Bed it
    It didnt take much fitting to get it to fit his action, but it is not a Drop in perfect fit.
    But to me, very few stocks are

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    I did build a Mauser for a guy a few years back using that stock.
    It was a better price back then, but what isnt.
    The guy was from Poland and prefered the the Hump back European style.
    I liked it, But he had me refinish it to a High gloss Poly Finish , and Glass Bed it
    It didnt take much fitting to get it to fit his action, but it is not a Drop in perfect fit.
    But to me, very few stocks are
    Was it more like a spray on coating or was it an oil finish?

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    If I remember correctly, it was the Sprayed on Stain Finish like a Ruger or similar rifles

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Well after all the work opening up that front sight band it is to tall with the Lyman rear sight. Will end up using a Williams 3/16 ramp.
    As far as sight inserts what have y'all found to be the best with an aperture for quick acquisition? Partridge, bead (size of said bead), other suggestions?

  19. #19
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    IME a white or gold bead for quick shots but a Patridge is more precise at distance.

  20. #20
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    I built a .35 Whelen on a CZ '98 action about 20 years ago. Great cast boolit rifle. I've shot all kinds of bullets and boolits with it, from wadcutters through the 280 grain 358009. Jacketed pistol bullets too.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check