Can do ? modify a round ball mold ?

[Atlast357]

My dilemma is locating a .31 cal. Round ball mold.
A few makers like Lee make one , but are only throwing .319 balls.
I have a Uberti 1849 Colt pocket that requires at least a .323 - .325 ball,
in order to create a sufficient seal band on the ball.
Slugging the cylinder chambers shows a .318 net diameter .
There must be a controlled method to enlarge a mold , but I don't know how.
Only have hand tools and a drill press along with a Dremel.

[17nut]

Jeff will cut you one at your desired diameter:

http://www.jt-bullet-moulds.co.uk/moulds.html

[country gent]

You can lap a mould out a few thousandths. The Lees softer aluminum will cut pretty quick so go slow and check it often. Work with the finer grits also to slow cutting down and improve finish. Heres the process that works for me.
Start by casting 4-6 good balls from the mould each cavity. If its a multiple cavity you want to mark them as to cavity.
Drill a blind hole in them for a piece of 1/8" or smaller key stock. you want the hole size to be snug fit on corners. And glue a 1 1/2" length into each with epoxy or super glue.
Clean mould and lightly lube.
Mount a ball from #1 cavity in a tee style tap handle and coat lightly with 600 grit lapping compound. Insert into #1 cavity and work around like tapping a hole. 2-3 back and forth rotations rotate 90* and repeat thru 2 full rotations. Move to next cavity and repeat.
At this point I would cast some and check size to see what changes are there.
Mount a ball from #2 cavity and repeat above starting with #1 cavity and then #2 cavity and recheck
If more is needed mount ball from #1 cavity and start with #2 cavity, moving to #1 cavity.
Recheck by casting a few balls
If more mount ball from #2 cavity and start with number 2 cavity then #1 cavity.
By switching balls and cavities like this it helps keep balls round and very close to the same size easily. Aluminum will cut fast and the machined finish will also speed cutting so work slow and carefully checking often. It does take a little time to do but when done you have just what you want. Also re mark the mould as to new dia so others know what it is.

[Atlast357]

Country Gent. That sounds like a good method for me.

Thanks for the detailed procedure.

[country gent]

It works well just go slow and check often. Depending on your lapping compound a little oil or water ( some are oil based some water based) as your laping will thin and help it cut. Another trick is when done use one last ball and a light coat of flitz or simichrome to give a final polish to the cavities. And a Your Welcome also

[Atlast357]

Well sure Flitz. I have polished aluminum motorcycle parts for years with it.
Plus have hand lapped valves on engines.
Got to get on with it now.

[Grmps]

This might work. for regular bollits I add a coat of powder-coating or hi-tek coating to gain in diamiter.
powder coating is easier for small batches and different powders go on thicknesses

[bob208]

back in the day it was common to fresh out a barrel every 2 years some times more often. when this was done they would lap out the old mold to fit the new bore.

another thing to check is your bore. you mite need to ream to cylinder to take a larger ball. check into a mold for 00 buck it is .330. I use a old lyman in that size or my .31.

[17nut]

This might work. for regular bollits I add a coat of powder-coating or hi-tek coating to gain in diamiter.
powder coating is easier for small batches and different powders go on thicknesses

Not applicable for frontloaders!
The intent is to shave a ring from the round ball at loading in the revolver.

[bedbugbilly]

I'm not a "shotgunner" but have you looked to see if there is a buckshot size that would work?

http://www.hallowellco.com/shot_size_chart.htm

I googled and came up with the above chart - towards the bottom there is one size that is listed as ".32". Buckshot would be soft lead and not necessarily truly round, but if there was one that would work in your pocket model, and if it would leave a lead ring when seated, it might work. When I was a kid and before I started casting, I had a .32 caliber rifle that I used buck shot in, in place of cast balls. They worked well with a pillow ticking patch in the barrel I had but that was a rifle - not a C & B which requires tight seating and a lead ring.

Just a thought.

I looked through my molds as I thought I had an old ideal single cavity that was .323 - I was thinking I had one to cast for gallery loads out of my 8mm but I couldn't find it so must have traded it off in the past. I'll keep my eyes open and if I run across anything will PM you. I think there was one on flabby a short time ago but I couldn't find it in a search so the auction must have ended.

You might put a post in the "casting for shotgun" forum on this site and see if anyone has a buckshot mold that would throw the size you need?

A strange thought but if you couldn't find a RB that fits, the next possibility is to see if someone like Tom at Accurate could cut a small conical that would work once you determine the exact size you need? They'd be pretty small for sure.

Good luck in your search - I know how frustrating it is to have a gun you need to find a mold for and you can't - hopefully something will show up that you can use.

[Atlast357]

Well I received the Lee .319 mold today. One hour later had nice shiny boolits
measuring .321 +- They fit into he gun's cylinder just fine leaving a sufficient compressed bad for
a good gas seal.
The .31 1849 Colt pocket revolver was able to drive the balls using the loading lever quite easily
and that's what I wanted.
Thanks for all the input.

[Atlast357]

Went to range yesterday and shot Lee .319 actually the nold throws .320.
Fired OK for a short barrlled handgun. A freind gave me a few .323 and .325, those got a little
more accuarcy with slight increase in powder load.
I'll work on the mold to make it larger using "country gents" proceedure.