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Thread: Stewart shot maker and voltage.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Stewart shot maker and voltage.

    When I first used my James Stewart shot maker (220V 20amp?) in my home I had problems with the temp. Fluxuating where the corners of the pan would freeze then thaw on an unpredictable interval. This is an on or off appliance. At first I thought the switch was the problem, so I bypassed it using the plug to turn the heating element on and off. No difference in the freeze thaw cycle was noted. Then I moved my store to an industrial complex. The problem dissappeared.

    Now that I am retired I am back at my home. How do I get clean power from my service to my shot maker? My thought was an uninterruptible power service 220V. My son suggested a voltage regulator. Standard residential electrical wireing is about the peak of my electrical knowledge. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    Sounds like you are not getting 220V if in fact it draws 20 amps a 20 amp line is not bg enough you will need a 30 amp 220 supply. However if it is rated for a 20 amp line you may not be getting 220 volts under load. Complain to your power company.

    My home shop was not getting correct voltage after upgrading the supply to a 400 amp service. Upset you bet!

    The power company put a recorder on the line for a day. The next day they replaced their transformer to one rated correctly for the draw. The original was rated for a 60 amp service.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
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    could be your home wires are undersized, could result in a fire if thats the case.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master




    RED333's Avatar
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    Running at lower volts will get less watts from an element, anything less than 10% is gona
    drop your watts enough to show as a problem that you have. If you have now other issues from
    other electrical equipment get you a buck/boost transformer to raise your volts to what you need.
    Most homes are feed with 208 volts, commercial buildings get 240 volts.
    Volts x amps = watts Watts / volts = amps
    220V x 20A = 4,400W or 4.4 KVA , go to a electrical supply house and get a 5 KVA buck/boost transformer.
    Learn something to hook it up, use a volt meter to make sure the volts are OK.
    http://www.buckboostcalculator.com/index.cfm
    These are not cheap, few hundred dollars.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    how old is unit jim was NOT a electrician he made some bad choices when he tried to wire them .
    a 20amp house breaker is too small for the 220 volt . you also need 10ga wire . the wire he used in the 220volt unit is too small it will burn up
    i tried to tell him but he was so hard headed he would not listen. he put a switch on the units but it was a singe pole and only cut one side . you could get killed if you touched it and was grounded .
    the heat unit could be a 1250 or it could be a 1500
    1250 would work on a 20amp IF there was nothing else on , the 1500 will cut in and out . as the connections he used will over heat.
    have an electrican rewire with stove wire . remove the switch . remove the insulation at front in the bottom and put unit up on about a 1/2 in steel blocks
    I i welded nuts in the under side and put 3/8 bolts to adjust it . i have rebuilt 4 of these . and all worked much better .
    jim is no longer with us .
    rick

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I can rewire with 10 ga. Allready bypassed the switch. The circuit I'm using is an electric dryer circuit, so probably 40Amp. Why do I remove the insulation that is below the element? I allready support the unit on a steel angle frame.

    I'm really sorry to hear he has passed.

    My unit has a thick layer of baked on "red stuff" do I need to clean that off or can I just paint the layer with synthetic 2 stroke oil?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    not all he put some up front and it didnt let heat get to front where the lip is . if you are that close to a good source you are ok. but could be his wireing in base . early he used just reg wire and it burned up ,
    as note his wife said he made it back home but now dont know anything , He is still above ground but barely

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I have a older unit with the metal toggle switch. My dad a master electrician said that was not the best choice for the system. I run a extension cord my dad made with its own breaker. I use the breaker as a switch. I don't remember exactly how my dad tested the unit or the power at the receptacle but he did say it was ok and wanted to inspect the drippers guts.. he passed before that happened.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Ed_Shot's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about Mr. Stewart. I sought and followed his advice and have had nothing but success with his shotmaker.

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Try hooking up a pid temperature controller.
    That way you get a much more constant temperature
    so it's better consistency per batch and repeatability between batches.

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