What is wrong with my 1851 Navy?

[Stopsign32v]

I can pull the hammer back and fire. Go to pull the hammer back for the next round and it barely comes back then locks up. Let up on the hammer then pull back again and all it well. Does this every time.

[9.3X62AL]

Percussion cap fragment tie-up? Old-days shooters raised the muzzle almost vertical after firing--not as a showy exercise, but to assist in clearing the hammer well of cap debris.

[Stopsign32v]

No, that isn't it.

[Beagle333]

Did you take it apart and look at the innards? It's almost gotta be a piece of cap or broke spring in the transmission somewhere.

[Buckshot]

................Yup, gotta take it apart As Beagle 333 suggested it could be foreign baggage within the workin's, or possibly the 'Hand' that rotates the cylinder has an issue (tag ends and pigs ears in the slot from initial machining)? Only one way to tell.

..............Buckshot

[bedbugbilly]

You don't say if it is new or not . . .

Check for cap fragments but you say that isn't it.

As suggested, you'll likely have to disassemble to check for what is causing it

If it is new - check to see if your hammer and hammer to frame fit is kosher - at times, I have heard where there is interference in the hammer channel of the frame due to poor finishing and poor tolerances.

If you are unfamiliar with disassemble and assembly - do a Goggle as there are some good videos out there that can help you out on that.

Good luck!

[45 Dragoon]

The problem is that the bolt isn't resetting. This is a fairly common problem. There may be some raised metal on the top of the cam that is preventing the arm from slipping over onto the cam.

You should inspect the cam and make sure it is smooth. The bolt arm that rides the cam (left arm) has a reset cut at the very back of the arm. That is where the cam rests after reset. If it doesn't reset, the bolt won't move and cyl will stay locked.

The movement of cocking the action is enough to get the arm to reset and allow the action to cycle, allowing you to shoot again.

If you will remove the back strap and trigger guard, you can watch this happen as you cycle the action.

Mike

[Stopsign32v]

There's also a good bit of back and forth play in the action with the hammer down.

[Stopsign32v]

Is this correct or possibly my problem?

[Stopsign32v]

Well fixed that issue. Not sure what it was but it no longer does it.

But there is still play in the timing side to side. Maybe a new bolt is needed.

[9.3X62AL]

Well fixed that issue. Not sure what it was but it no longer does it.

But there is still play in the timing side to side. Maybe a new bolt is needed.

Single-action systems like your 1851 retract the advancing hand as the hammer lowers to strike the percussion cap. Most double-action revolvers leave the advancing hand in its uppermost position (usually due to trigger pull) while the hammer is falling. I don't get concerned with a slight amount of rotation in a S/A revolver cylinder for this reason. If the ball or bullet is shaving lead when fired--or is shooting inaccurately--then look at replacing the bolt and related timing issues. Slight shimmy is usually OK.

[45 Dragoon]

Stopsign,
It's quite possible that the hammer screw or bolt screw pin (or both) may have been slightly loose and tightening them up when you reassembled the revolver may have cured the problem. Did you cycle it and watch what was happening with the bolt arm. Good education just doing that.
Anyway, the cam looks OK but the 12 o'clock position (roughly) is where you need to check for upset metal. The pic of the bolt is showing the opposite view of the cut where the cam sits (but that is the correct arm ). It's the crescent shaped cut facing to the rear. That arm has to slip over the cam and if it's rubbing the top of the cam, it may not slip on over. Watching it happen will give you an idea of where and what to look for.

As for the side to side movement of the cylinder, as 9.3x62AL says, a little is OK. That is the bolt head / lock notch fit for the most part plus bolt/bolt window slop. A bolt block will take care of the latter.

Mike

[Stopsign32v]

Stopsign,
It's quite possible that the hammer screw or bolt screw pin (or both) may have been slightly loose and tightening them up when you reassembled the revolver may have cured the problem.

That is exactly what it was

[45 Dragoon]

Awesome! That's another thing about the Colt lock work. The screws/screw pins are never perfectly straight so, when they work loose, they may move the part swinging on them considerably. I try to remind customers as well the if the action ever feels or sounds "not quite right", check the screws first. Another good practice is to not swap the trigger and bolt screw pins. Doing so on some very close tolerance builds can cause them to not even function!! I always mark the bolt screw pin with a notch.

Good job Stopsign32v!

Mike

[Stopsign32v]

Thanks Mike. The only other thing about it is the cylinder doesn't lock up that tight and if you cock the hammer too fast the cylinder goes too far and doesn't line up the nipple and hammer.

[Beagle333]

Does the bolt actually fit into the slot? Can you look in the side and watch as the bolt comes up and see that it does indeed rise fully up into the slot? (sometimes they are too fat and just "sit" over the slot when it engages (pops up), which will loosely hold the cylinder in place, but not when spun into battery very fast.) It is easier to check when fully disassembled, but you can usually tell if it might need further study just by looking at it closely as you work the action.

[45 Dragoon]

Stopsign32v, several things at play here. Beagle333 is right about fitting the bolt to the notches. If it does fully enter all of the notches, does it bottom out? Are the sides of the bolt head parallel and without taper (Bolt heads that are tapered for "fitting" are wrong)? Is the bolt stop (shelf forward of the bolt head) stopping the bolt from fully seating in the locking notch (there should be some clearance between the stop and the frame (you can view and check its status from the parts well). Also, where does the bolt drop ( against the cylinder )? It should drop fully on the cylinder, in the approach, no less than one bolt width before the notch. The bolt head should exert about 3-4 lbs of spring pressure on the cylinder (they are usually much over sprung!) but the bolt spring could be cracked/ broken. All of these things (singularly or collectively) could allow "throw-by".
Another " non-bolt related contributor could be a weak or broken hand spring. I hate to throw all this at you but nailing down throw-by can be quite involved if you're not familiar with the whole setup of your S.A.
At least it gives you a "shotgun" approach of the problem/problems to look for.
Let us know what you find.

Mike