ML ram rod

[725]

For your consideration: I have a T/C Cherokee & Seneca. Sweet little rifles but the ram rods are just plain delicate. I've used them both without incident, but I just feel like my ham handed nature is going to break 'em. I've pulled the originals and set them aside just so they will be available should I sell one some time. To replace them, I've purchased some Naval brass rod from MSC. 5/16" brass stock. Comes in 6 foot lengths. Perfect fit in the thimbles. Cut the rod down to ram rod length and cut some light / sharp cornered groves in the end to assist in pulling the rod out of the thimbles. The weight of the brass makes loading so much easier than the light weight wood original. They look good and work better than original. I've also replace those hollow aluminum rods in my larger ML's, too. 700ML., Black Diamond, CVA, etc. Those larger ML ram rods are a perfect 3/8" brass stock. Soft brass rods are cheaper (same page in the MSC catalog), but I intend on tapping the end of my rods so I can use cleaning jags, brushes, etc. The Naval brass is stronger and I'm hoping better suited to threading. Good fit, no rattling in the thimbles, smooth during use. I really like my improvement. Just thought I'd toss it out there.
725

[sghart3578]

Nice,

Thank you.

[copdills]

great idea Thanks for the information

[mooman76]

Productions guns come with wood ram rods that aren't very good and break easy. A good straight grained hickory is need and generally you have to order it specific. One thing to prevent mishap is don't grab the RR high. Grab it low like 6" or so and take short strokes when trying to seat your PRB. That lessens the chance of breakage and if it breaks it also lessens the chance of going through your hand.

[charlie b]

For the range I just use my long cleaning rod, complete with boresaver.

When I did hunt I used one of those 'bad' synthetic rods. The wood ones I keep for show.

[pietro]

.

I also have Cherokee/Seneca rifles, and have found brass RR's make lightweight rifles heavier - so I pinned/glued (epoxy) RR ends onto fiberglass driveway markers ($1 ea) that I first cut to length, for use in the field.

Since I did so over 20years ago, and have zero muzzle/rifling wear, I have no truck with the theorists that expound against fiberglass RR's - heck, even T/C once upon a time offered fiberglass-impregnated accessory RR's for all their rifles.


.

[country gent]

I have used brass tubing for ram rods and glued pinned the ends in place. Some used the tubing with lead in it to add weight.

[OverMax]

Warren Muzzle Loading sold such yellow brass rods to fit T/C products years ago.(solid brass) I replaced 5 wooden rods on mine with Warrens brass.

Ram rod tips were solid brass lathed into shape and fitted over a reduced in-size shaft end and then pinned. Get comment all the time how nice the rods match the rifles hardware (all are Hawkens models except for one Big Bore)

But~~ being a 'Ol school shooter. I don't like shinny brass trappings in the woods when I'm on a bushwhacking scout. All my rifles brass has been left to patina on purpose. Even so. All those rods still look handsome to the perceptive eye ~~even when patina-ed.

[725]

Overmax,

Not to worry. My brass has started a nice "worn" patina after just one range session. I fully expect it to catch up to the dull brass colorization of the rest of the rifle's furniture. Won't be long before it's looking like it belongs there.

725

[Pavia]

Overmax,

Not to worry. My brass has started a nice "worn" patina after just one range session. I fully expect it to catch up to the dull brass colorization of the rest of the rifle's furniture. Won't be long before it's looking like it belongs there.

725

I don't polish brass either. Those rifles and muskets were made for the field or combat. Shiny stuff sticks out...