New to casting and looking for a push in the right direction

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Lastmile,
welcome to the forum.
You do have the correct direction, IHMO.
Keep reading the posts here, use the search function, there is so much great info buried in the 12 years worth of posts here, it's mind boogling.

I just have two things to add to the comments you already have received.

>>>Regarding the Lee 20lb pot.
The big advantage to the Pro 4-20 isn't that it holds more alloy (but that is a benefit no doubt), it's the improved valve assembly design.

>>>For me, Pre-heating the mold with a Hot plate was the single biggest thing that made this casting hobby more pleasurable.

[Larry Gibson]

Don't know if it's been mentioned but if you can find a Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook #3 it will give you all the basic information. You will often refer to the first half which is excellent basic information. Study it and you'll be far ahead of just trying to learn everything off the internet one or two questions at a time.

The CBH #3 is out of print but can be found. CBH #4 is available but doesn't have the best information in the front half. It's mostly just one person's method. CBH #3 is the best book to have and to learn bullet csting from. With the basic information at hand in CBH #3 you can get excellent follow up explanation here. Once you learn the basics advanced cast bullet use information is readily available here also.

Larry Gibson

[w5pv]

Mix some Ben's Red and use that for bullet lube,after many thousands of rounds through the tube no leading and after a while the only place you will have to clean is the chamber(action and other parts).The bore will get the carnuba shine in it and there will be nothing in the bore to clean just wipe the chamber ever so often.Good luck

[6622729]

Best advice I can give,and looks like you've already started some of it,is to read read read.There's a lot more info than you can absorb in a few years just in the stickies.Would advise you towards a 20 lb. melter though.

Agreed. You will not go wrong with the PID controlled Lyman Mag25. What a nice piece of equipment. My 10lb Lee pot was obsolete the minute the Mag25 was in use.

[Lastmile]

Great I'll pick up a hot plate and make sure to get the 20lbs pot. I read the cbh, but I'm sure it was #4. I'll track down a #3. Last weeks pay check was a bit light, so I'll have to hold off on the spending for a week or so. In the mean time, is there any recommendations for reading material or subjects I should look into? Anything you wish you had known from day one? The problem I've ran into is not knowing enough to know what I don't know. Thanks again I'm much more confident about starting out now than before I'd heard from all of you.

[pjames32]

Search this forum for "From Ingot to Target". A pdf download that will become your bible. It is free!
Save the pdf so you can read it at your leisure and refer to it when needed.

[lightman]

Search this forum for "From Ingot to Target". A pdf download that will become your bible. It is free!
Save the pdf so you can read it at your leisure and refer to it when needed.

Thats a good idea. I printed it, punched holes in the pages and put them in a 3 ring binder. It lives on the book shelf beside the loading bench.

[Sasquatch-1]

Not putting WET lead in a pot that already has melted lead. Did this more then 40 years ago and learned my lesson.

I casted for more then 30 years without a PID and without a thermometer with Lee molds and a 10 pound Lee bottom pour and did just fine. Get what you can afford now and save the bells and whistles for later.

Anything you wish you had known from day one? The problem I've ran into is not knowing enough to know what I don't know.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Great I'll pick up a hot plate and make sure to get the 20lbs pot. I read the cbh, but I'm sure it was #4. I'll track down a #3. Last weeks pay check was a bit light, so I'll have to hold off on the spending for a week or so. In the mean time, is there any recommendations for reading material or subjects I should look into? Anything you wish you had known from day one? The problem I've ran into is not knowing enough to know what I don't know. Thanks again I'm much more confident about starting out now than before I'd heard from all of you.

OK, here are three stickied threads of tips, there are numerous posts, and there are many posts that aren't worth reading that you will have to fish through...but there are some gems that are worth the time skimming through all the posts. Many times, I will find an idea or concept I never thought of, and then use that post as a jumping point to search out more threads on that subject for a more defined/detailed.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t-Boolits-tips

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Tip-Of-The-Day

This last thread is more advanced, It started out like other tips threads, but ended up being a store house of incredible links. I fish through this one all the time.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-that-may-help

[pjames32]

Thanks JonB. Good links!

[Grmps]

this site has a wealth of information http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
this is a link to multiple free load data sites http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4086919
the "google custom search" near the top right of the forum will lead you to almost everything you are looking for.
Unless something is published by a reliable/accountable source double and triple check the information
On this and any forum, people post their opinion, what works for them, what they think. Most of it is universal knowledge.
BUT: some (not a lot) is not recommended or even dangerous.
You will see disagreements even arguments on ideas. That's where personal research from documented resources keeps you safe.
There are MULTIPLE variables, one instance should the bullet be 1, 2, 3 thousandths over:
You need to consider riffling twist rate and type, barrel length, alloy hardness/composition, bullet design, lube, coating, powder how fast the powder burns and how heavy a charge your using plus every firearm has it's own "personality"
RULE #1: SAFTEY:
Always wear eye protection! burns and scarring suck's BUT being blind is permanent.
Never cast/load/shoot tired or impaired
Avoid all distractions when casting/loading/shooting
Welcome to the addiction

[gwpercle]

this site has a wealth of information http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
this is a link to multiple free load data sites http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post4086919
the "google custom search" near the top right of the forum will lead you to almost everything you are looking for.
Unless something is published by a reliable/accountable source double and triple check the information
On this and any forum, people post their opinion, what works for them, what they think. Most of it is universal knowledge.
BUT: some (not a lot) is not recommended or even dangerous.
You will see disagreements even arguments on ideas. That's where personal research from documented resources keeps you safe.
There are MULTIPLE variables, one instance should the bullet be 1, 2, 3 thousandths over:
You need to consider riffling twist rate and type, barrel length, alloy hardness/composition, bullet design, lube, coating, powder how fast the powder burns and how heavy a charge your using plus every firearm has it's own "personality"
RULE #1: SAFTEY:
Always wear eye protection! burns and scarring suck's BUT being blind is permanent.
Never cast/load/shoot tired or impaired
Avoid all distractions when casting/loading/shooting
Welcome to the addiction

Does this mean the Drunk Naked Casting Contest won't be held this year? I was so looking forward to that event !

[dbosman]

If you don't already have it, grab your FREE copy of "From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners ©" A joint effort by Glen E. Fryxell and Robert L. Applegate from: http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

[David2011]

Lastmile,

Lots of us have shot SWCs in 1911s without feeding issues. Just seat the boolits so about a thumbnail's thickness of the shoulder is exposed above the mouth of the brass. The Lee 2R nose shape is IMO better suited for revolvers than auto loaders but plenty have been used in 1911s.

One thing that will help in the 1911 is to TAPER crimp the mouth (never a roll crimp on an auto loader) of the case to between .471 and .469, measured just behind the case mouth. Measuring on the case mouth might catch a burr and distort the measurement.

[Lastmile]

I found ingots to target while I was reading through the stickies, and that's what convinced me to give casting a try. I've read it twice and actually understood much more the second time. Seems to be a reoccurring theme, so I'll see what will stick this time around the stickies. I'll start with those three. I haven't figured out how to quote multiple posts yet, but I thank everyone for their advice.
I'm sure SWC will be my second mold, and I'll read up on the different crimps. My knowledge on that subject is simple, I know there are different crimps, but I turn my little crimp knob until it mic's right. I'm not even sure what kind of crimp it is, if I'm being honest.
I've found you take forum advice with a grain of salt. Mostly because I'd rather not eat pieces of my gun inadvertently. That being said, without this forum I wouldn't know a fraction of what I do about reloading and my theoretical knowledge of casting.
You're safety advice is appreciated. I shall wear my PPE. My experience in life has taught me if something is flying through the air it will hit me in the eye, so I'll pick up one of the dozens of pairs of safety glass that have migrated to the garage.
Thanks again for the direction. I'll have plenty to read for awhile, and even more to learn.