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Thread: Cylinder Grabbing - First 10 Shots Only

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Cylinder Grabbing - First 10 Shots Only

    Cylinder Rotation Binding With First 10 Black Powder Cartridges

    When shooting Black Powder Cartridges in the Uberti 1872 Colt Open Top Revolver in 38 Special, the first five shots, and then most if not all of the next five shots exhibit dragging (jamming) of the cylinder upon cocking the revolver for the next shot. The cylinder starts to rotate then binds up shortly after commencing to rotate. It seems to be when the primer arrives at the loading gate joint even though the loading gate is flush with the recoil shield and no ridge is present. After the first or second cylinder with Black Powder loads (or Pyrodex), no binding occurs.

    When shooting smokeless cartridges, no binding is experienced at all on any of the first five or ten shots.

    I can only assume that the Black Powder pressure/time curve allows the cartridges to “setback” against the recoil shield and probably allows the primer to flow leaving an unnoticeable extrusion which drags on some area of the recoil shield between the twelve and ten o’clock position of the recoil shield as viewed from the front to the rear of the gun. I posit that this setback is also being allowed due initially to the clean chambers which do not grab the brass upon firing. The higher pressure of the smokeless propellants coupled with a different pressure/time curve allows the clean brass to grab the clean chamber walls with enough tension to prevent case setback.

    Once the chamber walls are soiled, the subsequent black powder cartridges do NOT bind up even though they are the same load that initially binds.

    When viewing the cases that experienced binding under magnification, no evident streaks or rub marks manifest. Other than a deep firing pin strike, no apparent cause of the binding can be seen. The deep firing pin strike is not the root cause since the binding occurs after the firing pin has been withdrawn from the indentation. If the loading gate were slightly higher than the recoil shield, I would have to say the primer is grabbing the gate at that point. Fortunately, the loading gate is at or lower than the recoil shield surface. No high spot can be felt there with a pick.

    On my next range session, I will load up six rounds and alternate with Black Powder and then Smokeless. This will certainly test the theory that the clean chamber walls coupled with the pressure/time curve of black powder, cause case setback until the chamber walls get sufficiently dirty to grip the clean cases with enough force to prevent setback of either the primer or the case itself. Know too that the head space is within tolerance on this revolver.

    Also noticed is that new or resized brass has an OD of 0.3763” while fired brass has an OD of 0.3785”. I will also try loading up some cartridges without resizing the brass to see if that helps the brass grip a clean chamber wall when loaded with Black Powder. The first cylinder full will tell.

    Has anyone else observed this anomaly when firing the first few shells loaded with black powder versus smokeless powder?
    Last edited by Tar Heel; 07-06-2017 at 01:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    This is just a guess on my part - you say smokeless shoots different than the BP as far as your "binding" issue.

    First - let's assume that all of your primers are properly seated - especially since they go ban not he first hammer fall.

    I am just "assuming" from what you are saying that you are cleaning your open top between shooting sessions? Thus, you are pulling the wedge, removing the barrel & cylinder? Is there any chance that when you reassembled the revolver that you seated the wedge in harder than before - which in effect would tighten the cylinder gap and push back on the cylinder when cocking? Are you noticing any drag on the front of the cylinder/barrel?

    I have shot open top BP revolves for many years (50+) and have had many different brands. Currently, I have a '51 Uberti which I like very much (I always have shot Navies). But, it has taken some tweaking over time to get it to the point where just thumb pressure on the wedge is all it takes when reassembling (which is what it should be). If the wedge is seated just a tad bit more, it will tighten up the cylinder gap and as a result, the seated caps will "drag" on the recoil shield - which is basically the same issy you are having. Just something to think about and to check.

    How do you replace the wedge? Are you pushing it in with your thumb or tapping it in with a mallet or similar? Uberti cylinder arbors are noted for being short which will cause some cylinder bind if not tuned up a little. I carefully filed the wedge slot of the cylinder arbor to remove any burrs from machining, etc. and carefully honed the wedge on a fine oil stone which tuned mine up to where thumb pressure was all that was needed to seat the barrel wedge. After that, I have never had an issue with they cylinder gap nor caps dragging on the recoil shield.

    On a "framed" revolver, the tolerances are all built in and consistent for that revolver - i.e. cylinder gap, cylinder set back, etc. On an open top - each time it is disassembled and reassembled the tolerances can change and sometimes it doesn't take much when the barrel wedge is installed to affect those things a tad bit. Not saying that is your problem - but check it out and at least eliminate it. Good luck!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Good points above. The revolver is a cartridge gun of course not a C&B conversion.

    The revolver is completely cleaned between shooting sessions. I can't abide with dirty guns. The wedge is tapped in gently. This has been noticed over multiple range sessions and is repeatable. If I were to fire the gun right now with smokeless, no binding. If I were to load BP cartridges, it catches (binding) on the first few loads (5-10) then no binding. Cylinder face is clear with consistent gap. Cylinder face is true. Forcing cone is true. It's something to do with smokeless and black powder pressures and a clean chamber. Headspace is .068" and well in the middle of the range of .060" to .074". It's not headspace. It's not cylinder face/forcing cone. It's not smokeless propellant. Primers are seated. Primers are the same in smokeless & BP loads. Brass is the same (Star Line). Bullet is the same. Lubricant is the same. The only difference is the propellant. After 10 shots of BP, no binding. Has to be chamber walls and case gripping coupled with either primer setback and/or case setback although no drag marks are evident on fired cases nor is any primer extrusion evident. Everything looks honky-dory to the naked eye and even under magnification. Only recoil shield impressions (fingerprint) is evident.

    Attachment 199241
    Last edited by Tar Heel; 07-06-2017 at 10:43 AM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    ...then most if not all of the next five shots exhibit dragging (jamming) of the cylinder upon cocking the revolver for the next shot. The cylinder starts to rotate then binds up shortly after commencing to rotate.
    Have you ever thought that the base pin needs to be lubricated to remove the hard fouling on it that is binding the cylinder? In addition, Swiss & Goex Olde Eynsford are moist burning powders
    Regards
    John

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    My 1851 replica had some cylinder drag after I set back the barrel lug to tighten up its original far to large cylinder gap. I discovered that the face of the cylinder was uneven. I wrapped a piece of iron rod in paper tape to form a tight fit in the cylinder arbor hole and chucked it in my drill press. I used first a large flat file then silicon carbide sand paper to flatten the cylinder face and polish it, only a few thousandths had to be removed. now even with near zero cylinder gap theres no noticeable drag even after firing several cylinders full. I usually pull the cylinder and clean and re-grease the arbor after three or four cylinders full (18-24 rounds).
    Checking out several other replica cylinders I've found most had faces that weren't as flat as they should be.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    Have you ever thought that the base pin needs to be lubricated to remove the hard fouling on it that is binding the cylinder? In addition, Swiss & Goex Olde Eynsford are moist burning powders
    Base pin is well lubricated. Binding is BP or Pyrodex. It's not a fouling issue at all. It's a "grabbing" issue not BP fouling of which I am very familiar with when shooting C&B revolvers.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Folks, this is not a face drag issue building up with fouling. It is an INITIAL issue which clears up after 5-10 rounds are fired and the CHAMBERS get dirty. The binding STOPS after the first 5-10 shots with BP. The cylinder does not bind with smokeless.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    What is odd is that it clears up after a couple cylinders full.

    If you've eliminated what's been suggested . . . then my next question is if you are using Starline brass, have you tried loading up some BP rounds in the same load/boolit but in different head stamp brass to see if they give you the same issue? i'm guessing that they probably will but I would still try it. I use Starline in 38 Colt Short, Long and Special for Uploads but have never experienced what you are - but I'm shooting them out of a New Vaquero and a Uberti Bisley - not an open top.

    What grain weight boolit are you using? I normally use a cast from a Ideal 358-311 (160 ish grain) with a compressed load of 3F Goex in the 38 Special and a cast Lyman 358-242 (122 ish grain) in the 38 Colt Short/Long with compressed load of 3F Goex - all finger lubed in the grooves with my usual BP lube.

    It doesn't seem like a BP 38 Special should have enough set back in the cylinder to cause what you are getting? And after ten or so rounds with fouling, it still doesn't seem like any fouling you might have in the chambers/throats would hold the cartridge and prevent it from setting back like the first ten?

    As they say . . . it's a "conundrum" . . . and it will be interesting to see/hear what might be causing it. Especially when you have a batch that are all loaded the same, same load, same seating depth, same crimp - and I'm assuming you are using a standard roll crimp and not a taper crimp, same OAL, etc.

    I grease my arbors/cylinder pins well and I can shoot many, many shots with BP and not have an issue of fouling causing a problem with the cylinder rotation. Just thinking out loud - if you grease your arbor well, it doesn't seem like the fouling would be enough on your cylinder to prevent "set back" of the cylinder after ten shots and I'm guessing that is not even coming in to play but rather a cartridge set back is happening for some unknown reason.

    I have a Uberti Cattleman 7 1/2" 45 Colt (SAA). The cylinders are extremely generous and even with a compressed load of 3F and a 255 grain 454-190 cast boolit I have never had an issue such as you describe - and after firing I rarely have to use the ejector - they just drop out so they are pretty free to "move around" - the same with a smokeless load of 6.5 gr of Red Dot with the same boolit.

    This one is a head scratcher! Beautiful revolver you have! One is on my bucket list - just trying to decide between the 72 open top (38 Special) with a 5 1/2" barrel or a standard "51 Navy R & M conversion.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Merely a thought. I wonder if after the 10 rounds there is enough fouling on the back of the cylinder or on the recoil shield, or both, to act as a lubricant?
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedbugbilly View Post
    What is odd is that it clears up after a couple cylinders full.

    Exactly...

    If you've eliminated what's been suggested . . . then my next question is if you are using Starline brass, have you tried loading up some BP rounds in the same load/boolit but in different head stamp brass to see if they give you the same issue? i'm guessing that they probably will but I would still try it. I use Starline in 38 Colt Short, Long and Special for Uploads but have never experienced what you are - but I'm shooting them out of a New Vaquero and a Uberti Bisley - not an open top.

    I have not tried different brass yet.

    What grain weight boolit are you using? I normally use a cast from a Ideal 358-311 (160 ish grain) with a compressed load of 3F Goex in the 38 Special and a cast Lyman 358-242 (122 ish grain) in the 38 Colt Short/Long with compressed load of 3F Goex - all finger lubed in the grooves with my usual BP lube.

    I am shooting the Accurate Mold 36-155c bullet with "Confederate Lube" at .359"

    It doesn't seem like a BP 38 Special should have enough set back in the cylinder to cause what you are getting? And after ten or so rounds with fouling, it still doesn't seem like any fouling you might have in the chambers/throats would hold the cartridge and prevent it from setting back like the first ten?

    Agree. Setback (thrust) is to be expected. Then the brass relaxes right?

    As they say . . . it's a "conundrum" . . . and it will be interesting to see/hear what might be causing it. Especially when you have a batch that are all loaded the same, same load, same seating depth, same crimp - and I'm assuming you are using a standard roll crimp and not a taper crimp, same OAL, etc.

    Assumptions are correct. Consistent loads with roll crimp, same seating depth &c.

    I grease my arbors/cylinder pins well and I can shoot many, many shots with BP and not have an issue of fouling causing a problem with the cylinder rotation. Just thinking out loud - if you grease your arbor well, it doesn't seem like the fouling would be enough on your cylinder to prevent "set back" of the cylinder after ten shots and I'm guessing that is not even coming in to play but rather a cartridge set back is happening for some unknown reason.

    I have a Uberti Cattleman 7 1/2" 45 Colt (SAA). The cylinders are extremely generous and even with a compressed load of 3F and a 255 grain 454-190 cast boolit I have never had an issue such as you describe - and after firing I rarely have to use the ejector - they just drop out so they are pretty free to "move around" - the same with a smokeless load of 6.5 gr of Red Dot with the same boolit.

    This one is a head scratcher! Beautiful revolver you have! One is on my bucket list - just trying to decide between the 72 open top (38 Special) with a 5 1/2" barrel or a standard "51 Navy R & M conversion.
    You will love the 1872 if you get yourself one!

  11. #11
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    I have 2 44-40 and 2 45 Colt 1872's and none of them do this. Maybe the 38 is different.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    when you load the cylinder and turn to check for high primers does it turn free, or drag.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by sac View Post
    when you load the cylinder and turn to check for high primers does it turn free, or drag.
    Turns free. Primers are set fully in the primer pockets.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Springfield View Post
    I have 2 44-40 and 2 45 Colt 1872's and none of them do this. Maybe the 38 is different.
    Ah...it's gonna be something ridiculous I am sure.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Tar Heel - you're keeping me up at nights as I ponder on this! LOL I think I finally figured it out though .. . you know, I've always heard that when you cross the Equator, the water in a toilet bowl when flushed rotates in a different direction. . . maybe this has something to do with your location and if you are above or below the Mason-Dixon line? I'm really going to freak if you tell me your cylinder rotates in the opposite direction than normal!

    I had hoped that by now someone might come along who maybe has had the same issue to enlighten us on it . . . . will take a nap this afternoon so I can stay up tonight and ponder it more! It makes a person scratch their head for sure.

    Good luck to you sir and enjoy that nice open top!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedbugbilly View Post
    Tar Heel - you're keeping me up at nights as I ponder on this! LOL I think I finally figured it out though .. . you know, I've always heard that when you cross the Equator, the water in a toilet bowl when flushed rotates in a different direction. . . maybe this has something to do with your location and if you are above or below the Mason-Dixon line? I'm really going to freak if you tell me your cylinder rotates in the opposite direction than normal!

    I had hoped that by now someone might come along who maybe has had the same issue to enlighten us on it . . . . will take a nap this afternoon so I can stay up tonight and ponder it more! It makes a person scratch their head for sure.

    Good luck to you sir and enjoy that nice open top!
    When I figure this out, I will post the reason and we all will go "ahaaa".

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