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Thread: Coleman Stove

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Coleman Stove

    I recently picked up a Coleman model 424 duel fuel (gasoline) camp stove at a charity store.
    It is BRAND NEW ! Dusty on the outside but still had the tape and packing material inside. Never been fired up. I got a really good deal on it.

    I prefer the pressurized kerosene stoves over the gasoline models for actual cooking duties and intended to use this one to smelt lead.

    Well; I got it home, wiped the dust off and removed all of the packing materials. It's just too nice ! I can't bring myself to put a lead on it.

    Guess I have an extra camp stove .....

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
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    Cool new stove

    Poor fellow!!! [good catch]

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I now have 4 portable stoves and only 1 that I use for lead.

    Got my priorities all out of whack

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    What kerosene stoves are you using, that you like?

    I'm looking for a good one, for camping not lead -- gases or gasoline seems better for lead.
    The first purpose of the Second Amendment is too often overlooked, fostering a liberty of mind and action necessary in the people of a free republic.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I have a Coleman Exponent (which is also sold as the Peak 1 550B) with the kerosene generator installed. The Coleman has a copper colored tank and the Peak has a grey one but it's stamped "Coleman" on the bottom. It's a great little single burner stove. It's a little big for backpacking because it's a one piece stove with an integral tank.
    I also have a Optimus 155. The 155 is technically a marine stove and has two burners. It's about the size of a Coleman 424 two burner "suitcase" stove but really is made to be placed in a galley of a boat.
    Kerosene stoves must be pre-heated so you need a small supply of alcohol or lighter fluid to get them started (just like pressurized kerosene lanterns than lack pre-heaters). Kerosene provides a lot of BTU's for its weight and is one of the more efficient fuels. Once you master the operation of a kerosene stove or lantern, they provide years of great service.

    There are a lot of older European kerosene stoves made by Primus, Optimus and other manufactures. There's an entire kerosene stove/lantern community and some serious collectors out there ! I'm not one of them but I do prefer kerosene to gasoline.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    Thanks, I'll look for that Coleman.

    I've nothing but good to say about kero collectors. One offered me so much for my great old Ender's, that loved either kero or gas, that I'm now kero stove-less.
    The first purpose of the Second Amendment is too often overlooked, fostering a liberty of mind and action necessary in the people of a free republic.

  7. #7
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I have bought several Coleman gasoline stoves at garage sales and thrift stores, usually only spend about $5 for one. Many times they are rusty, or missing parts, or damaged worn out parts. I have pieced together many of them into working units.

    I do have a couple that I acquired that look like new and would never use them for Lead or wax.

    I had one set aside for only Lead and Lube (and wax firestarters)...that one lasted about 4 years of heavy use and now beyond repair...I have another one set to go...I used it a couple times for Lube, but haven't smelted any lead for a while, but it's good to go ...I'd like to figure out a good way to re-enforce the stove body/grate without spending too much money or time, to better handle the weight of a 40lb soup pot full of molten lead.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I'd like to figure out a good way to re-enforce the stove body/grate without spending too much money or time, to better handle the weight of a 40lb soup pot full of molten lead.
    A case to grate length piece of steel pipe, with needed cutouts, around the burner; which will also increase efficiency by directing heat to the pot, rather than the world at large. If pipe and pot are matched well enough, lifting the grate is even better.
    The first purpose of the Second Amendment is too often overlooked, fostering a liberty of mind and action necessary in the people of a free republic.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master copdills's Avatar
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    Lucky man Great find

  10. #10
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    ghh3rd's Avatar
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    I got rid of my single burner Coleman backpacking stove after it shot fuel all over my hand and arm. I pumped it up as directed, let it burn for a minute, and then pumped it up again the prescribed number of times. When I let go of the pump a stream of gas shot out of the air hole in the pump and set me afire. After waving my arm frantically a couple of times and hearing the whooshing sound the flames made, I realized that I should stop panicking, and stuffed my hand and arm under my jacket and it went right out. I still have a regular Coleman gas stove and trust it for some reason.
    Five out of six doctors agree that Russian Roulette is completely safe.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Bad check valve. Easy to fix but troubling when it's spraying you with gasoline !

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    sometimes it SCARY to read what you guys do . that thing was never meant to have 20 or 30lbs on it . much less having 450* lead near a gas tank.
    but looks like a few have lived .
    just wonder how many didnt

  13. #13
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landy88 View Post
    A case to grate length piece of steel pipe, with needed cutouts, around the burner; which will also increase efficiency by directing heat to the pot, rather than the world at large. If pipe and pot are matched well enough, lifting the grate is even better.
    that sure would be better than a couple pieces of 2x4, LOL.
    but seriously, that gives me an idea...I can't think of a inexpensive source for a chunk of large pipe...but maybe I cutup a heavy duty stainless soup pot that's about the same size as the one I'm using...

    I just dug up this link/photos for another thread, and may as well post it here as well.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...nc-never-again

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    sometimes it SCARY to read what you guys do . that thing was never meant to have 20 or 30lbs on it
    I used that stove the night I got home and found my first ever mold sitting on my door step. I put a small pot on it and my goal was to make just one boolit that I could look at while getting stuff together to make a big batch.

    After the Oxy kicked in, I managed to try again and get a few Lee 148 gr wadcutters poured. Now I have many molds in many calibers .
    Five out of six doctors agree that Russian Roulette is completely safe.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I bought one years ago just for bullet casting. Gas is cheaper than white gas. So, regular gas will clog it up in about 2-3 tanks of fuel. I tried several brands, octane etc. Always the same result. If you find a brand, octane whatever that goes past 4-5 tanks full, please share. Also, I found the temp would drift off lower unless I kept pumping it up. Kind of a PITA for a 30# batch off match bullets. Went to electric and not looked back. You can buy garage sale stuff for parts cheap, good luck with that.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I've never had a problem with unleaded gasoline in a Coleman duel fuel stove. The key is to NEVER leave gasoline in the stove. Burn it all out until it quits.Also, use gasoline not gasohol. Octane rating has nothing to do with it and you're better off with the low grade (87 octane) which is generally what you end up with if buying pure gasoline anyway. The generator tube should be hot when the stove runs dry.
    If you end up with a full tank right before you are done with the stove, let the stove cool down and drain most of the fuel back into your storage can. Then, re-light the stove with the remaining gas and let it run completely dry.

    Back before the ethanol problem was forced on us (Thank You Congress), Amoco Ultimate unleaded was the preferred gasoline for duel fuel stoves. Now than most gasoline has 10% ethanol mixed in, you're better off with any brand as long as it's pure gasoline.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master tazman's Avatar
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    I tried the white gas Coleman stove one time. By the time I got the lead melted and fluxed the grill bars were beginning to bend from the weight and heat.
    I now use a single burner (Coleman) propane stove that is working very well for me. The shorter, fat propane bottles last for about 100lbs of smelting before it need a new bottle.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I refill my small propane bottles from my big ones with an adapter from Amazon. You freeze the small bottle for 1/3 for best results

  19. #19
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    TXCOONDOG's Avatar
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    Tools are tools which are made to use......that's all got to say about that!

  20. #20
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascast View Post
    I bought one years ago just for bullet casting. Gas is cheaper than white gas. So, regular gas will clog it up in about 2-3 tanks of fuel. I tried several brands, octane etc. Always the same result. If you find a brand, octane whatever that goes past 4-5 tanks full, please share. Also, I found the temp would drift off lower unless I kept pumping it up. Kind of a PITA for a 30# batch off match bullets. Went to electric and not looked back. You can buy garage sale stuff for parts cheap, good luck with that.
    I am not using a dual fuel stove. All my garage sale stoves are the traditional style designed for Coleman fuel (white gas). I use the cheapest "Non-Oxy gas" from the gas pump and in Minnesota, that is the premium gas, high octane, that is the only pump gas available without alcohol (Non-Oxy).

    I don't have any clogging issues. The only problem I have had, and it was only one time, was the "generator" bent. I assume it's from the heat from countless hours of smelting lead alloys. Since I can buy a good used stove for less than the price of a new Generator, I just scrapped out the stove, and plan to use a different one.

    I should state, the with Non-Oxy Pump gas, the Flame does burn more of a orange color, as opposed to the nice blue color you get when burning coleman fuel.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check