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Thread: Help with dented bullets

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy


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    Help with dented bullets

    I hope the picture works. No matter how I adjust my die I seem to get a sharp dent right about at the ogive. I am wondering if they are over annealed but I also tried it with brass that was not annealed. I also use a minimal amount of lube and still and issue. The die is an old BT SNIPER one step .40 cal die, that I bought second hand and am just now getting a few minutes to start to use it. Using 380 brass and cores cast from a Lee .30 cal 93 grain mold.

    Thanks for the help!


    Last edited by guywitha3006; 07-02-2017 at 12:53 AM. Reason: Components used

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Is it every bullet or occasional ? How is the dia coming out? Kind of looks like the core isn't swelling to fill the jacket good before the ogive is forming. Maybe try a softer lead for the core

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy


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    This is happening to nearly every bullet. Instill try to Mic them tomorrow. The cores were cast from pure pb soni can't really get much softer. I currently only have the point form die but I wonder if a core swage would fix it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm sure if you contacted Brian he would be more than willing to help
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  5. #5
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    Not an expert with these dies but when one of my dies does something like this it's usually because there is garbage in the die and a good cleaning fixes it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Is this the process of dropping the core in the jacket and forming the point or do you pressure seat the core into the jacket?
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    bullet maker 57's Avatar
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    Looks to me like to me like there is something in the die or the die is damaged.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy


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    Thanks everyone for the ideas I will give it a good cleaning and if that doesn't work I will give Brian a call. I didn't want to call him at midnight last night when I discovered the issue.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    It looks to me that you need a slightly larger core, there is not enough lead there to properly fill the jacket and the jacket is folding over in the point form process.

    Edit: You may also want to try trimming the brass back a bit. I can make good looking .452 250gn bullets out of 40S&W brass as is, but I need to trim the brass back a bit to make 230gn bullets.
    Using Dave Corbin dies in the mega mite hand press.
    Last edited by Pipefitter; 07-02-2017 at 10:46 AM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    I strongly agree with the other fellows. You need to seat the core. I'm seeing circumferential buckling halfway up. The core needs to swell the brass slightly oversize, then as the pressure abates, the brass will tightly grip the lead. This gives the brass the support it needs to survive the point forming. I generally don't criticize others' methodology of going straight to point form because it neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg but there is a lot of value in the high pressure core seating step.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy


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    Quote Originally Posted by tiger762 View Post
    I strongly agree with the other fellows. You need to seat the core. I'm seeing circumferential buckling halfway up. The core needs to swell the brass slightly oversize, then as the pressure abates, the brass will tightly grip the lead. This gives the brass the support it needs to survive the point forming. I generally don't criticize others' methodology of going straight to point form because it neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg but there is a lot of value in the high pressure core seating step.
    Hey tiger,
    I don't take it at criticism, don't worry. The die is sold as a "one step" die so it did not come with a core seat die, just the point form. I know to get the most consistently I would need a 3 die set or at least two. I may try a .358 core instead of a 30 cal to help swell the case. The .380 shouldn't need to be trimmed as it is almost the exact length I need.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    I get the same sort of "crease" in some of my bullets. I found it was right where there was a lube groove in my cast core. Doesn't always happen, just seems to be the right combination of core and case. Two ways to stop it are use a smooth sided core or seat the cores and hit them with a torch to melt the core in the jacket.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Yes just melt your core into the jacket then point form.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    OK, cool. Just didn't want to come across the wrong way. Anyway, if it were me, I might try to rig up a partial core seat by using the punch of a Lee sizer that is close to inside diameter, and pound the lead down a bit. It might cause some swaging of the lead/brass. Won't be as effective as die #2 in a 3-die set but would be worth a try. Also, it just occurred to me that 380 brass is woefully thin-walled. When I reload 380 I always have to be careful to flare the mouth lest the bullet seating process crush the brass.

    Quote Originally Posted by guywitha3006 View Post
    Hey tiger,
    I don't take it at criticism, don't worry. The die is sold as a "one step" die so it did not come with a core seat die, just the point form. I know to get the most consistently I would need a 3 die set or at least two. I may try a .358 core instead of a 30 cal to help swell the case. The .380 shouldn't need to be trimmed as it is almost the exact length I need.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Even esier than cast the cores sit in jacket and re melt, would be to make a measured ladle that throws the 80-93 grns desired and just pour into cases from the pot. A Lee mould could be bored to hold the jackets 2 at a time Set jackets in and sit on a flat surface pour and drop when solidified.. If the lead comes to the top then the sprue plate could be used to trim excess. The cavities would be a simple drilled to size with standard drill and then ran to depth with a flat ground drill.

  16. #16
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    You need to bell the mouth of the case with a 9mm expander die or one of my universal dies with custom expanding mandrel, then use same 9mm expander reloading die to push the lead core into the bottom of the case.

    Then form bullet, should get much better results.

    Got a pic for you soon.

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  17. #17
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    oh.... wait.... your using 380 ACP brass....

    Not sure with the 380acp???? your close.... still might try some sort of expander die with the 380 brass first.

    We have perfected using 9mm brass and 120 grain .356 cast booltis for the core but you will have to experiment with the process a bit to perfect using 380 acp brass, I am certain there is nothing wrong with the die.

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  18. #18
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    Thanks everyone I am pretty sure it was lube groove. I took a torch to a few jackets with the cores in until the the core melted. When they cooled I tested them and they look almost perfect. So I will probably melt the cores in the jackets for now (playing with building a little kiln any ways). Maybe some day I will get a core seat die. Brian I will try using an expander .38 expander and see if they helps at all. The ones with the core did Mic out right at .400 so I don't know if they even need it. They where very well annealed.


  19. #19
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    Looks like you have solved all your issues. I would continue to use the method that works. I know of a few others here that anneal their brass and melt the lead core in the jacket all at once. Works good and as you see allowed you to use yoru excess 380 brass.

    Great work and swage on!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check