Kowa. Is not going to be in my budget. 1000-1400 tops. I have to work and scrounge for that. Need to sell a few things.
Kowa. Is not going to be in my budget. 1000-1400 tops. I have to work and scrounge for that. Need to sell a few things.
Hit the High Power matches in your area a used one may turn up. I don't think looking thru them wears them out LOL
North might work for closer distances, but at ranges over 650 yds. the North facing targets can completely disappear at certain times of the day! My friend has all his target dingers painted white, and facing North. At around 2:00 p.m. in the afternoon the 800 and 1,000 yd dingers disappear in the afternoon sun when looking with the naked eye. So iron sight shooting has to cease for 1.5-2 hrs. until we can see the targets again. We can see them with the spotting scope just fine, but it's amazing what bright sunlight on the ground and the target, make it all blend together to the eyes.
Targets facing north your shooting southto them and the sun is behind them Our local club is like that and yes target get very hard to see let alone bullet holes. Best is just before dusk it seems as the wind dies down and light is just there but no glares.
North might work for closer distances, but at ranges over 650 yds. the North facing targets can completely disappear at certain times of the day! My friend has all his target dingers painted white, and facing North. At around 2:00 p.m. in the afternoon the 800 and 1,000 yd dingers disappear in the afternoon sun when looking with the naked eye. So iron sight shooting has to cease for 1.5-2 hrs. until we can see the targets again. We can see them with the spotting scope just fine, but it's amazing what bright sunlight on the ground and the target, make it all blend together to the eyes.
Are you sure Vall? I'd sworn his were all facing the south. As in shots are all northerly. Perhaps my memory is wrong.
Not an expert but heard that the bigger objective is the better it is for spotting holes. The Konus I have is 80mm and the old Buasch and Lomb i have is also 80mm. Probably one of the best is the old Unertl 100mm team scopes but rarely find them for sale and when you do they rarely stay for sale long. Trouble is they didn't make all that many and are expensive when you do. Frank
Larger objective lenses gather more light to transit the scope and increase the exit pupil. Clairity is a function of lense quality and coatings which also enhance light transmission for low light conditions.
Inexpensive scopes often provide too much magnification for the quality of the lenses no matter how large the objective lense is. This is particularly true with the cheaper variable power spotting scopes.
The atmosphere is important to "see" when shooting at long range and thus the need for quality glass. It is the primary means of reading the mirage (when present) or observing other wind indicators for accurate wind speed estimation and the necessary sight deflection needed to stay in the center of the target. A thick, humid, dusty or hazy atmosphere can defeat too much scope power while a lower power scope can see through it. For me 20X is about right as a good compromise when using a good scope. Quality variable scopes allow one to compensate for condition for the best view.
Fortunately for us, lense quality and coatings are usually petty good with mid level scopes today; although comparing a mid level scope to a high end scope is enlightening, particularly at the higher power settings.
Last edited by Scharfschuetze; 07-03-2017 at 02:28 AM.
Keep your powder dry,
Scharf
I shoot .22LR on up to the 45-70 so I need a scope that can spot the smaller bullet holes.
I currently have a 22X Bausch and Lomb Elite x 60mm and a Swift 15x to 60X x 60mm 841 Telemaster. Neither is that great a scope in reduced light or past 100 yards.
I have used the older 77mm Kowa with the 25X LER eyepiece and it was superb. Your spotter is the one optic that goes to the range on every trip so it is the most used scope you own. Make sure it is the best so it can do its job.
EDG
My big scope on the tripod is the Vortex Viper, I use an older discontinued Vortex for my lay down scope. Both scopes will show 44/45 caliber holes in paper up to 300 yards and beyond.
If you can find a good set of binoculars at 20x those work very well, but the problem with that is a quality set of binoculars will run as much or more than a spotting scope.
Which ever way you go, spend the high dollar on a good solid stand/tripod. A high dollar scope on a wobbly shaking stand won't be much good.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Hey guys thanks for the in information. I just bought a used Kowa TSN 821m agled with a LER 27x eye peice for 470.00 shipped. This fits my budget better and im sure it will be overkill formy needs.
That's a great price, and you'll be very happy with a Kowa!
That's a very good scope for a very good price. What eye piece did you get with it? Don I had the opportunity to coach a jr high power team with a set of 60X binoculars off of a ww2 battle ship. They showed 30 cal holes clearly at 600 yds that day. But were heavy and awkward to move around. I was lucky and had to of the fathers moving it from yard line to yard line LOL. They ere clear and crisp but the cast iron body and tripod mount we very heavy.
It comes with the 27x. Why do the new ones come with 25x. I assume clarity is better.
I may want to get a variable power eye piece. Do the newer versions work with this scope?
It was 450 + 20 for shipping. I seen several os the same model going for 50-100 more
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |