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Thread: Common Problems with Range Brass?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
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    Common Problems with Range Brass?

    My wife wanted me to give her a handgun out of my "collection" for her to shoot, so I dug a Tokarev pistol made by Norinco in 9mm Luger out. It was brand new in the factory packaging that I bought 25 years ago on a weak point, when I was collecting guns, and just sat in the vault. So, now that I "need" to have a lot of ammo for her to shoot, I purchased over the internet some really cheap brass that is advertised as once fired, but of random brands off of a shooting range. Was this a good decision and what do I need to be aware of to load it all. I purchased 1000 cases and they all look to be commercial, with no crimped in primers. I am a rifle guy and like my matched brass for that, and don't do much pistol reloading.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    My guns live on range brass. Only the 44 special has ever shot new brass. Anyway I visually inspect as I deprime. With 9mm I trim my brass to make it all uniform. That may not be necessary. That is about it. Never any problems for me. Others might have different advice.

  3. #3
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    I have a whole ammo can of range brass from an indoor range. I inspect, size and deprime, then clean it and into the can it goes. It serves me well, and because I have so much I don't worry about policing all of my brass.
    Normally I sweep up the area where I shoot and what I bring home is a mix of everything, abut mostly 9mm, 40 & 45 cal. I also have a huge collection of .45 brass, 95% is range pick up.
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I have 3 25 lb boxes of Range brass, in 9mm, .40sw and .45acp. The .45acp cost a bit more. The other two were 50$ for the box.

    I have yet to have a problem. But, I do go over my brass pretty carefully.

    I like to deprime with a Frankford Arsenal hand depriming unit, then citric acid wash, rinse. Dry on a towel, work through all the cases one by one with a small brush cleaning primer pockets and giving the brass a roll on a towel laying on my leg to get the last of the stubborn grime off.

    That finds most problems right there.

    I then prime after the brass has dried for an afternoon with a RCBS Universal hand primer. To get 100 useable brass I will start with 125-130. I will always find either some oddball, strange looking or crimped primer brass that I cull out.

    Once primed I flare, charge, seat bullet. I often will take a towel make a silver dollar sized damp spot with mineral spirits, or johnson's one step floor wax. And wipe noses of each bullet as a last final visual check. Putting them in an ammo box as I go.

    I have yet to have one of those range brass cause a problem of any sort. l

    And if you find one you don't like the looks of, toss it in the scrap brass jug.

    YMMV, but I have no issues with range brass. Vast majority of it is once fired, clean, with no problems.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Almost everything I have for pistol brass is range mix. If you sort by headstamp you can get some better consistency but I don't bother for plinking rounds. Are you going to be using lead cast rounds or jacketed/plated?
    My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter

    Thanks Yall!

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I've bought 'once fired' and found it wasn't. IIRC amscore uses a stepped brass vs tapered case. If actually from a range it's probably ok. I did use an FC 40 that blew the case head off, known & recalled but somebody used it.
    Whatever!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I used to get range brass all the time. Just check over it before you use it to make sure it's all the same caliber, that there are no splits, case head separation issues, enlarged primer pockets, or any serious dents and bulges. Pistol brass tends to not have these issues. The mixed brands really won't matter either. If you were shooting a precision rifle it might, but not a surplus handgun.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Part of the cost of using once fired brass are the losses that come from culling of defective cases.
    Buy large lots of a single headstamp from a police range and sort it. There will invariably be some odd headstamps anyway.
    Toss out the defects and cracks. Load it and shoot it.
    I have been doing this with much more expensive rifle brass for more than 40 years. My fallout rate is probably less than 3% because I reject many cases as I dig them out of the 5 gallon buckets.

    Guess what? If you buy new brass and shoot it up it become once fired range brass pretty much like any other.
    Last edited by EDG; 09-19-2017 at 10:36 AM.
    EDG

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    If 9mm only, watch out for 9x18 cases. They look almost identical to 9x19 or 9mm Luger. There is also a 9x21 that I have found a few of.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I once found a 9mm brass case that only said 9 on the headstamp. turned out to be 9 mm makarov brass. Another time I found another case marked 9M, it too was makarov brass.

  11. #11
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    Pretty much all been said.

    I police my brass and when I shoot where other people shoot, I get their discarded brass in addition to mine. Never had a serious issue.
    It all goes in the tumbler and sorted by type. For some cartridges the sorting is a bit more involved than others.
    38 Special gets sorted by wadcutter vs. standard and then by brass vs. nickel plated. Sometimes I will sort again by manufacturers headstamp when I'm really trying to squeeze out that last bit of accuracy. (read that as consistency)

    BUT, that relates to handgun brass.

    For rifle brass I'm a LOT more discerning. That is almost entirely my brass or known once fired brass of a particular make. That does get sorted by headstamp.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My issue with range brass is the oversized cases that can be mixed in from firing in sloppy or larger chambers. Bulges at the case head can be hard to size out with out a special die. I bought a lot of 308 military once fired and the "Machine gun" brass all ways showed itself with harder sizing the first tie and a slightly shorter life. My M1As chamders were cut to min headspace and size I used a small based die and the machine gun brass took a lot to size down that first time after it was fine. Glock and some of the other defense handguns have larger chambers and limited head support relulting in more sizing and buldges at the base or case head. Several now make a die that sizes push thru removing this buldge.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Anyone complaining about 'Norinco 9 X 19' brass?
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

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  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    My issue with range brass is the oversized cases that can be mixed in from firing in sloppy or larger chambers.
    I've had that. Some of those cases were noticably longer when I trimmed them to length.

    But my all-time favorite issue (so far) was the spider living in an empty .308 case.

    I either take a flashlight or get the sun over my shoulder, and look into the case mouth, trying to see a single flash hole. (And then leave the Berdan cases for scrap.) This time there was a spider, looking back out at me.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    Range brass is cheap, with cheap and reloading that mean some work on your part. I know most don't trim pistol brass but for me my Lee quick trim for the press has been a Godsend. The col of pistol brass will cause reloading issues, so separate seating and crimping stages. If you have a finicky pistol you may want to look at trimming the brass. I have a 45 ACP that I have to test each round to make sure it chambers in the field stripped bbl. That was solved with trimming the brass now I can just reload.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    My CZ 527 Has never been fed anything but reloaded range brass. I was picking up range brass several months before I bought the rifle, and I keep picking up range brass for it. I've had one Lake City case fail-- but it looked like a inclusion in the brass that had nothing to do with the fact it was range brass.
    Hick: Iron sights!

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    There is only new, yours, and range brass. I have never had a problem because of it being range pickup, as it is just brass that was fired in an unfamiliar gun, one or more times. Until it fails, it's all the same, and failure is unpredictable..
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  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use a lot of range brass in handguns. Most was picked up from the Local club I belong to or A friends indoor range. I normally swept the floor when I started to have a solid stable place for my feet. I then swept the floor and pile up when done to leave a safe floor for others. At the Local club some leave brass lay some will offer it to others but a lot save it. On the rifle range I rarely find more than the odd piece or 2 and usually not in a caliber I use.

    I have 380, 9mm, 40 S&W, and 45 acp dies with most of the radious cut off for the first time sizing range brass. This removes a lot of the bulge and helps get swelled cases back into spec. I used these in a single station press and feel the cases into the dies. They are sort of a small base pistol die. My 625 in 45 acp is fussy about its ammo and a tight case really fouls up moon clip full loading.It seems to have tight chambers as Ive even had some ( very small amount of ) factory ammo that gave problems.

    On the rifle rounds I prefer to work with new brass knowing its history. I have used mil surpluss LC brass in the past that was machine gun fired and sized really hard the first time

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    One additional word of caution, watch out for the 9mm brass that has been fired in a 40 S&W pistol. Sound like a silly caution but I have seen this twice in the last two years. You will definitely know them when you see them.
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  20. #20
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    I use range brass in all of my guns, never had a problem. However, I agree with and repeat from above, INSPECT. I inspect each piece of brass each time I handle it, through the entire reloading process. Just remember, it ain't worth guessing, so if in doubt, throw it out! I have dealt with a few FFB dealers online and there are a few that I trust. But not with my life so I inspect. Remember they are doing a volume business so they won't catch everything. That's why they usually sell the quantities as "100+" etc.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check