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Thread: 20ga. to 9mm crack barrel is good to go.

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    20ga. to 9mm crack barrel is good to go.

    I used a H&R 20ga. and installed a 16" barrel liner,drilled and tapped barrel for a mini-red dot. Test fired and zeroed it just now it is water bottle capable at 25 yds. Once the liner is epoxied in place and dried I will post pics.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Sounds nice. Thought NEF missed alot of sales by not offering their singleshots in 9mm, 40s+w and 45auto. Hope your range report comes soon and goes well. Todd3/leg
    Last edited by 3leggedturtle; 06-26-2017 at 05:24 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Pistol caliber carbines are IN. Cheaper to shoot, less recoil, less noise, ideally less cost to buy.

    I have a stub job in a Handi rifle in 9mm. A 16" .45acp chamber adapter I hope to play with one day soon. Thinking about a .45lc either barrel or chamber adapter, long, I found zero accuracy in short ones.

    We'll see how the .45acp does.

    Have also been considering picking up the last Hipoint carbine I don't have. Again in .45acp. I have the dies, the mold, good recipes, no reason not to have another gun able to shoot those rounds. I even have a 25 lb box of .45acp brass to load if I ever get ambitious.

  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    I have found a load that it really likes a 115gr. lee hollowpoint over 5.5gr. BA-7.5. It shoots 1" at 25 yds. at 50 yds. a tad over 2". Thats better than my ar9's and camp carbine. It cost a total of $200 including the gun.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    Shingle,
    Sorry to zombie thread this one, but where did you get your liner? I just picked up a topper for a song, with a 45acp conversion in mind.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ateam View Post
    Shingle,
    Sorry to zombie thread this one, but where did you get your liner? I just picked up a topper for a song, with a 45acp conversion in mind.
    Doubt you can use a true "liner" for this. Need to find a barrel and turn it down to fit. Liners don't normally come large enough to fill a 20 ga. bore.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I have a 20ga ultralite, and did NOT want to sacrifice lightness.

    Therefore, I kept the 20ga barrel.

    I did though, have a 5" piece of .357 barrel that I cut off a 357 mag barrel.

    I profiled the back like a 3" 20ga shell, turned the front to well clear the barrel in front of the chamber, crowned it, then chambered in 9mm.

    GTG. Like having a 9mm carbine, but none of the weight.




    Anyone that owns a 357 handi rifle knows you can't get it much down under 8 lb. my 20ga ultralight is like 5.5.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    idea number two is to do a stub job with a 5 inch barrel. Massive SBR. To fix that, I could take some electrical conduit, strip off the zinc coating and solder it as a 16" sleeve over the 3 inches of barrel tat stick out in front of hte stubb.

    Would be even lighter than the shotgun still, with one HECK of a flash hider

    sure wish I could still find H&R barrels for cheap. Seem to be made of unobtanium these days.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinman93 View Post
    Doubt you can use a true "liner" for this. Need to find a barrel and turn it down to fit. Liners don't normally come large enough to fill a 20 ga. bore.
    If my maths are correct a 20ga bore is .615, and the barrel liner I am looking at (track of the wolf) is 5/8 (.625) OD. Leaving me to subtract a hundredth from one of the two pieces. The only part that has me slightly concerned is the chamber area which I might just devcon and be done with it. Silver solder will not fill a gap that big (.04) unassisted, been considering trying some de-soldering wick to fill the gap, when it is saturated it will be a solid bond. Anyone ever tried this? Probably some No2 (.030 thickness) or No5 (.060 thickness) depending on actual measurements taken with a pin gauge after fitting is completed. Sorry for the ramble.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    You could thread a sleeve internally and then thread the OD of the liner to make up the chamber area. A cross pin and epoxy or Loctite might also work. Then turn the sleeve down to chamber dimensions.

  11. #11
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    Interesting idea, i could just use a cut off portion of the 20ga barrel to locktite on the liner and turn it down to chamber dimensions.

  12. #12
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    A slightly off topic question; Is it wise to make the barrel 16'' (rifle minimum), or 18'' (shotgun minimum)? The reason I ask is, if I locktite the thing together it is possible to remove the liner with some heat. Leaving you with an illegal shotgun. Anyone have any knowledge on this? I am leaning towards 18 anyway, as it looks like it will balance better, and avoid an possible legal headaches.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I have a 9mm barrel for a handi rifle that started as a shotgunbarrel.

    The guy that built mine cut a square edge where it touches the shortened shotgun barrel.

    The breech end has a nut that tensions it correctly for headspace, and was welded into place.

    As far as the short shotgun barrel, as long as it is not still chambered for a shotgun shell I think you would be ok. As it is not complete without the liner. Can't be used as a short shotgun.

    Where if you used a chamber adapter you had best leave the shotgun barrel at 18 + inches. As it is capable of shooting a shotgun shell.

    DAMM BATF makes all this stuff on purpose to make us criminals I swear.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ateam View Post
    A slightly off topic question; Is it wise to make the barrel 16'' (rifle minimum), or 18'' (shotgun minimum)? The reason I ask is, if I locktite the thing together it is possible to remove the liner with some heat. Leaving you with an illegal shotgun. Anyone have any knowledge on this? I am leaning towards 18 anyway, as it looks like it will balance better, and avoid an possible legal headaches.
    People being people 18" would avoid the inevitable (someone with legal authority stupidly making your life hell). Not slamming people in enforcement positions; it's just that in decision making nobody knocks it out of the park every time. A moment of wrong thinking on the part of a person adopting enforcement responsibilities can mess up your life so keep the two inches and don't force someone having a bad day to make a decision.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Meanwhile, isn't it surprising that someone isn't commercially producing .45ACP inserts with extractors that one would permanently JBWeld into 12 Ga. single shots? What would be optimum, maybe 10" or 12" length?
    But then would an enforcement person be faced with deciding whether you have an integral suppressor without having purchased permission?

  16. #16
    Boolit Master



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    NRA Benefactor 2004

  17. #17
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ateam View Post
    A slightly off topic question; Is it wise to make the barrel 16'' (rifle minimum), or 18'' (shotgun minimum)? The reason I ask is, if I locktite the thing together it is possible to remove the liner with some heat. Leaving you with an illegal shotgun. Anyone have any knowledge on this? I am leaning towards 18 anyway, as it looks like it will balance better, and avoid an possible legal headaches.
    That would not be a legal issue for you or anyone else. It would only be a legal issue for the person who did so. Just like someone cutting their shotgun barrel shorter than minimum length. If you epoxy in a liner or barrel, then you've made it permanent by law. Whatever someone did to modify the barrel later is the criminal.
    But I'd personally want my barrel as long as I could, just for balance and sight radius. I love 30"-34" barrel, and lean towards the 34" when I'm building single shots.

  18. #18
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    I found another liner source, but the stated twist is 1:12. I have only ever seen a 1:16 for the 45 acp. Anyone ever see this twist rate? Any idea how this will affect ideal boolit weight?

  19. #19
    Boolit Man Ateam's Avatar
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    well I went and ordered the unknown ebay barrel here

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-Cal-Rifle...72.m2749.l2649

    for 40 bucks it was hard to say no. I slugged the bbl and chamber, and every dimension came out to what were advertised (bbl) or sami spec (chamber).

    I also cut the topper bbl to 21 1/2 to use the full liner length. I may loose a few fps on standard 45acp pistol loads, but if I want to develop a dedicated rifle load with a slower powder, I think the extra length will come in handy. I looked through my "box of open sights", and found some off a savage SML, williams fiberoptic, which fit the bbl contour well. How far do I need to set them for the best sight picture? Any ideas on making an easy peep sigh like my xs peep?

    I am going to turn .025 of the liner and see how it fits today. wish me luck.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    I always try to get my iron sights as far apart as I can. But also don't push the front sight too far forward. I like 1" to center from the end of the muzzle. In order to get even longer sight radius, and better sights on my Buffalo Classic, I inletted a brass base into the wood at the wrist, and D&T for a vernier tang sight. It really made the gun a better, more versatile rifle for longer range shooting.

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