N.O.E. Problems...

[BCB]

Just got done casting about three hundred N.O.E. 311-202-RN…

This is the 4 casting session with this aluminum mold so there have been well over 1200 boolits that have fallen from its cavities…

The Problems:

1. Look at the pic. These lines appear at random from the first boolits dropped to the last boolits dropped. NO, THERE IS NO OIL IN THE CAVITIES. THEY HAVE BEEN CLEANED EVERY TIME, BEFORE AND AFTER EACH SESSION. SOLVENT AND DAWN DISHWATER SOAP. I’VE CASTED LOW TEMPERATURE AND HIGH TEMPERATURE & CONTINUALLY FLUX…

2. The front left side cavity perpetually sticks to the point where I must tap the hinge bolt on the handles a dozen or more times—very very annoying. I have lightly used steel wool to help remove whatever might be grabbing the lead. I smoke it regularly and I even use q-tip to rub a bit of powdered graphite on it. No Good…

Although this mold casts consistent boolits, it has had the above problems from day one. I do have another N.O.E. mold and I don’t have these problems…

What is interesting is that I have Lee aluminum molds from my 1st days of casting as they were inexpensive and in all honesty, I have never had the above mentioned problems with any of them…

Any suggestions?...

Still like the 311-202-RN in my 30-40 Krag—it’s been doing quite well…

Thanks…BCB

[LenH]

I have a NOE 311-198 SP mold and had the same problem. I found that the mold needs to be rocket hot and I run the melt up to 725°F. The bullets tend to be frosty
but are pretty much perfect. I tend to like 94-3-3 alloy for this round.

[OS OK]

How do you pre-heat your moulds ?

[Boolit_Head]

More heat, these are not the cheap lee molds.

[Shuz]

I suggest that you try spraying the hot mould with brake cleaner and then cast at 750 deg alloy temp. Once the mould gets up to the proper temp, your boolits should fill out properly.

[stubert]

That is not a mold problem, that is a temp. issue..

[BCB]

I suggest that you try spraying the hot mould with brake cleaner and then cast at 750 deg alloy temp. Once the mould gets up to the proper temp, your boolits should fill out properly.

Do you just spay that on the cavities and continue casting?...

Thanks...BCB

[BCB]

Off to my range--raining, but I have a roof over my shooting bench...

I worked out in the weather my entire life so shooting in it shouldn't be a problem either!!!

Thanks...BCB

[Boolit_Head]

You may also be casting a bit slow allowing the mold to cool. Either way get a bit more heat in the melt to get that mold a bit hotter and it will fill out. I've got a couple of brass molds that take quite a bit of heat due to the steel HP pins and brass. Once I get the temps right they cast beautifully though.

[Shuz]

Do you just spay that on the cavities and continue casting?...

Thanks...BCB

I just spray it on the open halves of the mould when it is hot, let the solvent dry a little and then start casting.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

long 30 cal boolits can be challenging.
You may have a venting problem, On many of my molds, I have used a fine file to 'break' the top edge of the mold to create a vent.

also pouring a large sprue puddle...see this thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ay)&highlight=

[Forrest r]

+1 ^^^^^^^^

Have a neo mold 301 212 paper patch mold. It was doing the same thing until the sprue plate dug gouges in the top of the mold. Then it started casting beautiful bullets.

[bluejay75]

That is one of two things... temp or lube being carried into the mold. I have experienced both. I only lube with the cavities full and pour a few time placing it on a hot plate in between pours until mold temp is right. Repeat it when mold cools too much.

[arlon]

Could some zinc contamination in the mix be doing that? Do other molds cast fine from the same pot of lead?

[TexasGrunt]

Did ya give the cavities a light smoke according the the directions from NOE?

[Taterhead]

With the heals looking a bit round, I too suspect that the mold is a bit cool.

[Harter66]

I cured that with a hot mould .
It's hard to break the set up and flow but the long bullets and little bitty short ones almost demand that the first 2-3 pours are frosty and slow cooling . Then keep after it as fast as you can cut the sprue the way you want them .
I rest the very long and very short under 35 cal on the pot rim to pour and cool . I have a couple that have to reheat to keep them running .

[BCB]

A person contacted me and thought some more info might help so here goes. I answered the questions he mentioned. My answers are in red (maybe)...

1. alloy temp?
700-800±

2. how are you preheating the mold?
Preheated as mentioned earlier

3. how fast are you casting? Inspecting as you cast? NONONONO.
Fast enough to allow the sprue to be cut without smearing lead—don’t look at them until the end

4. Every one of those bullets you show in the photo have rounded edges and it also appears that the mold is not being held level as you fill. Bottom pour or Ladle?
The edges are rounded as those are the worst of the worse boolits I pictured. The vast majority are good and square. The checks are actually a bit difficult to put in place by fingers. Bottom pour

5. Did you aim for the center of the sprue hole, or splash off the edge of the sprue plate?
Maybe both. I can’t see under the spout very well—never worried about this with any other mold

6. How much drop did you allow? Casting outside in cool air robs heat from the melt before it even gets into the mold.
3/8th to ½ inch drop. Cast in warm garage

7. Did you try pressure filling the mold. What ever you are doing, you appear to be doing it consistently or there would have been an improvement. A bit more information would be helpful.
I’ve never had much luck with the pressure method. Lead all over the place

8. What do the bases look like? Torn sprue nubs or flush cut?
The bases on the ones not distorted are nice and square and cut smooth

From most of the posts, it appears the heat may be the major culprit. I will cast a bit hotter the next run. BUT, I am still confused as to why the left side of the front cavity refuses to release the boolit without much tapping on the handle hinge with my wooden dowel...


Thanks...BCB

[BK7saum]

It looks like a cold mold issue to me. I have had lead splash from pouring into the sprue hole solidify on the side of the mold cavity. Then the mold finishes filling up around the cool lead and leaves wrinkles and circles on the side of the bullet. The mold needs to really be hot to prevent this issue. I have had it happen with my Noe 311 - 247 whisper mold. The solution ended up being faster casting with a little bit hotter alloy. As you said these are the worst with rounded edges, they were definitely cast in a too cold mold. As your mold heated up you began to get better bullets with fewer wrinkles and spots, correct? I would also check the sprue plate to make sure that's not too snug and can vent a little bit at the top.

[BK7saum]

You need to fill the mold faster and/or hit the center of the sprue hole to avoid the splash as much as possible.