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Thread: .32 Rimfire Shot Shells

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
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    Chev.

    So I had some 9/32" brass tube left over from a dead end approach. I was trying to make the case longer to hold the shot. That didn't work. The brass tube expanded too much. But by blue "locktiting" the tube in place I found that the .22 power hammer shell was easier to extract. The .22 didn't over expand, especially the crimped end. I liked that because sometimes the .22 case was hard to extract.

    So in this rendition, I cut the tube to 3/8" with a tubing cutter. Smeared blue thread locker around the short brass tube and pressed it into the .32 Long Colt case. Yes there is a gap at the bottom, due to the tapper of the case, but it doesn't cause a problem.

    The brass tube I bought from Amazon. It is advertised as 9/32 brass tubing. O.D. is .285 I.D. is .246

    Another side note. In this process I have been given a .32 rim fire barrel with really good riflings. So the next project is to load for that. What shell holder do you use? I read in one of the rim fire threads about using a bullet sizing die to crimp the bullets into the case, but I can't find that part of the thread. Do you know what to use? I appreciate all the good information on these that you have helped to gather and develop.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostinidaho View Post
    Chev.

    So I had some 9/32" brass tube left over from a dead end approach. I was trying to make the case longer to hold the shot. That didn't work. The brass tube expanded too much. But by blue "locktiting" the tube in place I found that the .22 power hammer shell was easier to extract. The .22 didn't over expand, especially the crimped end. I liked that because sometimes the .22 case was hard to extract.

    So in this rendition, I cut the tube to 3/8" with a tubing cutter. Smeared blue thread locker around the short brass tube and pressed it into the .32 Long Colt case. Yes there is a gap at the bottom, due to the tapper of the case, but it doesn't cause a problem.

    The brass tube I bought from Amazon. It is advertised as 9/32 brass tubing. O.D. is .285 I.D. is .246

    Another side note. In this process I have been given a .32 rim fire barrel with really good riflings. So the next project is to load for that. What shell holder do you use? I read in one of the rim fire threads about using a bullet sizing die to crimp the bullets into the case, but I can't find that part of the thread. Do you know what to use? I appreciate all the good information on these that you have helped to gather and develop.
    Thank you for the detailed reply, it clears up my original confusion.

    RE: Shell Holder and Seating /Crimping dies.
    My Reformed .32 S&W Family to .32 Colt Family Diameter Cases use the ".32 S&W" Shell Holder as the RIM diameter and thickness is not changed.

    As to Crimping Case Mouths, that is a "Horse of a different Color". I bought a custom Made "Old West Mold" Collet Crimping Die And Special Shell holder for .32 Long Colt cases because a 'Normal' Crimp die cannot get to the Case mouth past the Driving band(s) of the Heeled Bullet I am using.
    The custom shell Holder involved is made with a Machined Bolt Head (to hold the Cartridge but of Small enough outer diameter to fit inside the Modified Lee Collet Crimp Die to raise the Case mouth into the crimp zone of the Re-purposed and Modified Bottle Neck Rifle Case collet crimp die.
    I believe the Origin was a 7mm Rifle Crimp die but I am not certain of that.

    Remember, the Heeled Bullet Driving Band diameter is the SAME as the .32 "Colt" Case Outside Diameter; while the .32 "S&W" Case outside diameter is Larger than the Bullet diameter.

    Best Regards,
    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 10-23-2019 at 08:55 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    The Case on a .32 RF is about .310 to .312.
    The cases on a .32 S&W or .32 S&W long and also the .32 H&R mag is about .335 to .337
    I am making a Wack a Mole die to resize the .32 Longs to fit the .32 RF chamber.
    Then I will start on the Primer arrangement.
    But I may still just make some 22 LR adapters for that Leader Cylinder, and sleeve the barrel to .22 LR.
    The gun is not some collectors item, and is not in the best schape.
    But Any gun that can be fires safely is worth something to me, other than being some wall hanger

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    .32 Colt Family, including the .32 RF Family share Body Diameters.
    Cartridge Name;Bullet Diameter;Shoulder Width;Body Width;Rim Width;Case Length; Case Capacity.

    .32 Long Colt (New); .302; .318; .318; .381; .916; 13.1
    .32 Long Colt (Old); .312; .318; .318; .381; .916; ~13.0
    .32 Short Colt; .311; .318; .318; .375; .650; 9.3
    .32 Extra Long RF; .312; .318; .318; .377; 1.150 ;16.5
    .32 Extra Short RF; .312; .318; .318; .377; .398; 5.7
    .32 Long Rifle RF; .312; .318; .318; .377; .937; 13.4
    .32 Long Rimfire; .312; .318; .318; .377; .920; 13.2
    .32 Short RF; .312; .318; .318; .377; .575; 8.2

    From "Ammoguide Interactive". (items in italics added- WJS)

    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 07-30-2017 at 03:49 PM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the dimensions on the Cases.
    I have several feet of .22 Barrel liner that is .375 OD.
    I can turn the Case Adapters out of that liner material and I have a couple of .22 LR chamber reamers to ream them out to accept the .22 LR ammo.
    I can either turn the OD on a longer section of the liner so it fits inside the old .32 RF barrel with the rifling honed out, or just hone the inside of the barrel to .375 and Epoxy it in place.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Well , I made the first Chamber Adapter out of the barrel liner material.
    So far it works good, but I made one mistake and used my Rifle Chamber Reamer to cut the chamber.
    I need to use the Cylinder Reamer if I am going to put a liner in the barrel.
    Otherwise, I have to have the Little bit of Rifling in the chamber adapter line up perfectly with the rifling in the barrel liner section.
    Otherwise, it will just strip off the bullet, even with a forcing cone.
    Pictures will follow when I make the rest of the chamber adapters.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
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    I made and posted a video of my test results for different size shot in .32 shot shells

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=880DLsVTxGA

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy T_McD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostinidaho View Post
    I made and posted a video of my test results for different size shot in .32 shot shells

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=880DLsVTxGA
    Too cool! I like the smooth and rifled barrel idea. Any idea if a modern equivalent exists.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
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    T McD

    I am not aware of modern changeable barrels. Henry is now making a smooth bore garden gun

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    If the .32 S&W Or .32 S&W Long can be resized to the correct Diameter of the .32 RF.
    Then why cant the .32 H & R mag be resized and modified to make the .32 RF casings for a Longer case like a shotshell.
    I have a .32 RF Leader and a box of Navy Arms .32 Long RF ammo, but have never shot it.
    But if I shoot the ammo that I do have, I want to reload the original casings with the same method as they use to reprime the .22 LR casings.
    But I need to make a Heeled bullet mold for the .32 RF before I start, or a Shot Shell or Buck Ball round might be something to play with in the mean time.
    Check out Accurate Molds.
    Their 32-090 series includeheeled designs that can be loaded into .32 Colt cases of many different lengths.
    I bought a 311090A mold myself.
    The "1" in third position indicates I ordered a heel diameter over standard diameter.
    Chev. William

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostinidaho View Post
    Chev.

    So I had some 9/32" brass . . . . . .is advertised as 9/32 brass tubing. O.D. is .285 I.D. is .246

    Another side note. In this process I have been given a .32 rim fire barrel with really good riflings. So the next project is to load for that. What shell holder do you use? I read in one of the rim fire threads about using a bullet sizing die to crimp the bullets into the case, but I can't find that part of the thread. Do you know what to use? I appreciate all the good information on these that you have helped to gather and develop.
    Lostinidaho,
    Late reply: Re: .32 Rim Fire barrel. Please check the chamber 'depth' and condition carefully. Early .32 RF cartridges were Black Powder loaded and probably were used in your barrel. If not completely cleaned to remove combustion products, the Barrel bore and chamber could have suffered.

    Also, measure the Chamber 'depth' or length, from breech face to where the 'step is from body diameter to the 'leade' to rifling. depending upon what you find will indicate approximate case/loaded cartridge length is intended for your barrel.

    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 10-25-2019 at 06:20 PM. Reason: Correct typing errors.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
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    Chev,

    When I first got the rifled barrel, I cleaned it as best as I could. It was amazing what came out. But it cleaned up really nicely

    I then put together a test (no powder) cartridge. When I closed the breech it was tight. I remove the cartridge and the rifling just made a impression on the ogive of the bullet. So I trimmed a couple hundredths off the case. So now the bullet has just a little room before the rifling. There doesn't seem to be a "step" between the cartridge and bore. I believe this is because of the use of a heeled bullet the case and the bullet have the same diameter.

    The .32 Shot barrel is just a .318 cylinder from breech to muzzle.

    I have heard of people putting stronger cross bolts for at least the breech block pivot bolts. Have you heard of this?

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lostinidaho View Post
    I have heard of people putting stronger cross bolts for at least the breech block pivot bolts. Have you heard of this?
    That will do nothing to strengthen the action. The breechblock pivot should not be taking any load at all if the breechblock is properly fitted at the back. That is where most of the thrust should be resolved into the receiver. Sadly, most Favorites aren't, so the thrust is taken by the pivot. The failure mode then is that the breechblock leg pulls apart. The pivot bolt is already strong enough.

    Ditto the lever pivot bolt. The failure mode between breechblock and lever pivot is the link, the pins of which are much smaller than the lever pivot. (This will almost always loosen up before the breechblock fails.)

    Correcting the breechblock to receiver fit is a major project, since it involves letting the breechblock shift back into contact, by easing the fit of the breechblock on the pivot bolt. But that costs you the headspace setting, so you then have to set the barrel back.

    Generally speaking the 1915 Favorite is strong enough for any reasonable load in the .32 CF Colt. Some factory .32 S&W ammo has been found to test at 18,000 psi., which is way too much even for the 1915 model. Keep to the Colt, load your own to rational pressures, (circa 7000 psi.) and be happy.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 44Stevensbreachblock.jpg  
    Cognitive Dissident

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
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    I had to take apart my Steven's to see what you meant. I think I understand, the breech block, when it is locked in firing position, should have no space between it and the receiver at the back.

    If that is correct, then my Stevens is in good shape.

    I try to keep my reloads in the reasonable category, I am not an envelope pusher. I just follow the load data.

    The .32 Colt/Rim fire is a nice round. Not super sonic like .22 lr but is stout in its own way.

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Good. When properly fitted, the 44/Favorite action is considerably stronger. If not, the thrust is redirected onto the link, and the link holes get pounded oval. I like to describe proper lockup as being a wedge driven between the frame and the breech face.

    The best rifle load I have for the correct 299153 heeled bullet (85 grains weight) is 3.0 grains of Herco, and is just barely subsonic. Herco is slower than the usual Bullseye loads, peak pressure is lower and a bit later. Accurate #5 at 3.6 grains should do the same, but having no other use for #5, I've never bought any.
    Cognitive Dissident

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check