Load DataLee PrecisionPBcastcoRepackbox
Reloading EverythingInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyWideners
Titan Reloading RotoMetals2
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 35

Thread: .32 Rimfire Shot Shells

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237

    .32 Rimfire Shot Shells

    Been working on a project.

    .32 rimfire shot shells for .32 rimfire Stevens Favorite.

    Made 6 tonight. Went and fired two of them before it got dark.

    Not a bad pattern from 25 feet. 150 shots per shell. 127 within a 9 inch circle.

    Not a donut patter because it is a smooth bore barrel.

    Its been fun little project

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shot Shell 02.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	95.8 KB 
ID:	198158 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shot Shell 01.jpg 
Views:	105 
Size:	156.8 KB 
ID:	198159

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sun Valley, California
    Posts
    1,956
    Sounds like you have a Unique Project here.
    Curious about the Cases you are Using, Source, Dimensions, Modifications, and many other details.
    What Length are The Unloaded Cases as Used? What is your Loaded Cartridge Length? Please Expand your Descriptions of the Project(s).

    Chev. William

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237
    I want to do a better write-up in the future.

    The cases are .32 long colt. I bought them from gunbroker. They are reformed from 32 S&W. They are about .94"

    The cases are drilled out to accept a .22 starter blank. Small powder load plus a over powder wad (cork gasket).

    The paper shot tube is formed around a small brass tube like a paper cartridge. I want to improve this part. But this was the first and just a fast put together before sunset.

    The shot is #10 shot (80gr. worth) (about 150 pellets).

    I have heard that onion skin paper painted with finger nail polish makes a good shot container. It would be great to find a brass, I could reform to make a full length shell.

    I also want to do some more shot pattern testing on Saturday morning if I can find the time.

    I was thinking about changing the firing pin location on a Favorite breech block turning it to a center fire. That way I don't have to modify the cases.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4,900
    If you are prepared to modify a rifle, you would surely be better off with 9mm. rimfire shotshells, which are still available from Fiocchi - and that t uisn't like the various obsolete centrefires which are so described in reference books, just because Fiocchi made a short run long ago.

    I have several pounds weight of those cases, primed but never loaded, which I bought when the Birmingham Gun Barrel Proof House auctioned them off many years ago. They are 1.467in. long and .325in. diameter except for a short portion at .343in., imitating the brass of the earlier paper case. The rim is .4in. in diameter and .053in. thick.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237
    Saturday's test. I wanted to do more but the ATV crowd began to show up.
    25 yards and 40yards
    Seems like it shoots high for my aim. Could get better spread on the target by aiming lower
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Small Target 25 yards.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	71.9 KB 
ID:	198308 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Small Target 40 yards.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	65.1 KB 
ID:	198309

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237
    I was going through my shop and I had an idea. I need to know if it is a good one or not.

    I currently have been making paper tubes to contain the shot. They are not difficult to make but they are not durable.

    Is it a bad idea to put a brass tube into the case to lengthen the case.

    The tube goes to the bottom of the case.

    I thought I would either green locktite it or cold solder it into place.

    Then it would just be an over-powder wad and a over-shot wad.

    What are the thoughts.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170627_114840.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	71.4 KB 
ID:	198568

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sun Valley, California
    Posts
    1,956
    Adding an internal brass tube to a Cartridge is doable as you found out by your Photo.
    If it is secured so it cannot be sent down the Barrel when the cartridge is fired All will be good.
    "Cold Solder??? Do you mean Electronic Eutectic Lead-Tin alloy Solder, which has a Relatively Low Melting Temperature? Or something else? Perhaps Silver Bearing Eutectic Pb-Sn-Ag Alloy electronic specialty Solder might be useful.

    I would be cautious of what temperature you use on the head end of your cartridges. You do NOT want to Soften the HEAD!

    Whatever you choose to secure the inserted tube must be able to Expand and contract with the Cartridge Wall when the cartridge is Fired in your Chamber.

    Best Regards,
    Chev. William

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4,900
    I'd feel much happier crimping it in place as well, with a bluntened pipe cutter or some kind of special reloading tool. If you use epoxy or Loctite it mustn't be hardened before you do this, or you may just crack one holding system while applying another.

    John J. Donnelly, in his book, says there are low melting point solders which can be used to attach a case head to tubing for very light use - which anything intended to produce ay good shot pattern has to be. So I am sure these solders could be used to attach a tube. But you need to research flow temperatures for the product in question, and brass annealing temperatures. You would have to heat the case very carefully indeed. It doesn't matter whether you anneal the inner tube in tinning it with solder first, but I don't know if these solders flow well enough to do that.

    It might be easier to use gelatin pharmaceutical capsules as an alternative to paper tubes. In the UK they are readily available on eBay. Maybe they sell to devotees of a chemically enhanced state of being, but they aren't going to lead you from the straight and narrow on that account.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsule_(pharmacy)

    What surprised me about the true 9mm. rimfire shotgun a Webley in my case, was just how good the pattern was, with nothing but a cup wad pressed from something like food-carton cardboard. The pressure wasn't unduly low - enough to kill sitting pigeons cleanly at about fifteen yards, with shot which was probably No.8 or 10. It defies logic when you consider all people do to get good patterns with the 12ga, and that the smaller you go, the more pellets contact the bore. Another capsule on the rear of the shot might be as good.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    2,361
    I turned "wheels" to replace cutter in tubing cutter. I have assortment of edges flat, round and V.
    Main use on guns is inner tube on 22 rifles to put retaining groove for follower. I don't know how
    it would work on something as short as 32 casing. You would have to devise a way to hold case
    while turning cutter. You would be better off using a sizing die from other calibre that would just
    roll the case mouth when started in die. As far as soldering tube in case, no problem as long as
    you have case & tube clean & polished. They have low temp solder in a paste form/ with flux
    that would work well in this application. Prep is the main thing in soldering, if not clean and free
    of oils/ grease solder will not flow. When I solder small stuff I set it on a copper plate- heat plate
    with torch to avoid direct flame on object. If you prep is good, pieces will solder themselves when
    Temp is reached. Use a solder of lead & tin, new stuff " non lead" can be a PIA on small stuff.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4,900
    The very low temperature solders being in paste form sounds good. It would get around the problem of getting it all the way through the join if it doesn't flow or pre-tin surfaces as well as ordinary soft solder.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    2,361
    Swift is the brand name of mine, got from Brownells. It comes in small plastic jar and is easy to
    apply with small artist brush. Works around 400 degrees.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237
    After going down some dead ends, I have come up with some shot shells that work pretty good.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	.32 Shot Shells.jpg 
Views:	881 
Size:	33.7 KB 
ID:	200257

    This is what worked.

    First a .32 Long Colt brass casing with the primer pocket drilled and counter sunk to take a .22 power hammer cartridge. The power hammer cartridge will act as the primer and the powder charge.

    Into the casing, I glued with blue tread-locker a 3/8" long X 9/36" diameter brass tubing. This keeps the power hammer cartridge from over expanding when fired. The tube is not necessary but makes the power hammer cartridge easier to remove.

    A 1.125" long drinking straw is inserted into the casing. Into the bottom of the straw, a wad punched from cork automobile gasket material is placed. This acts as an over-powder wad.

    Into the straw, I poured 80 grains of #10 shot.

    Over the top of the shot, another wad made from the same gasket material. This over-shot wad was lightly glued into place with white glue.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy Lostinidaho's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    237
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	25 ft.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	69.7 KB 
ID:	200269
    at 25 ft

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	35 ft.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	73.4 KB 
ID:	200270
    at 35 ft

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	45 ft.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	67.0 KB 
ID:	200271
    45ft

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Any Cal.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    580
    I like it!

  15. #15
    Boolit Master NoAngel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    818
    I read this when you first posted and thought to myself: I bet a Ramset cartridge would work and bypass the need for powder.

    Good work. Garden pests beware!!!
    When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    4,593
    If the .32 S&W Or .32 S&W Long can be resized to the correct Diameter of the .32 RF.
    Then why cant the .32 H & R mag be resized and modified to make the .32 RF casings for a Longer case like a shotshell.
    I have a .32 RF Leader and a box of Navy Arms .32 Long RF ammo, but have never shot it.
    But if I shoot the ammo that I do have, I want to reload the original casings with the same method as they use to reprime the .22 LR casings.
    But I need to make a Heeled bullet mold for the .32 RF before I start, or a Shot Shell or Buck Ball round might be something to play with in the mean time.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sun Valley, California
    Posts
    1,956
    Quote Originally Posted by Lostinidaho View Post
    After going down some dead ends, I have come up with some shot shells that work pretty good.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	.32 Shot Shells.jpg 
Views:	881 
Size:	33.7 KB 
ID:	200257


    This is what worked.

    First a .32 Long Colt brass casing with the primer pocket drilled and counter sunk to take a .22 power hammer cartridge. The power hammer cartridge will act as the primer and the powder charge.

    Into the casing, I glued with blue tread-locker a 3/8" long X 9/36" diameter brass tubing. This keeps the power hammer cartridge from over expanding when fired. The tube is not necessary but makes the power hammer cartridge easier to remove.

    A 1.125" long drinking straw is inserted into the casing. Into the bottom of the straw, a wad punched from cork automobile gasket material is placed. This acts as an over-powder wad.

    Into the straw, I poured 80 grains of #10 shot.

    Over the top of the shot, another wad made from the same gasket material. This over-shot wad was lightly glued into place with white glue.
    "Into the casing, I glued with blue tread-locker a 3/8" long X 9/36" diameter brass tubing . . ."

    Please Expand on the Brass tubing Description. ID, OD, Etc. and how you positioned it in The Case since the Case wall toward the Base Web is tapered in thickness.
    Best Regards,
    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 10-23-2019 at 08:58 PM.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sun Valley, California
    Posts
    1,956
    Just for Giggles for my amusement, I bought Some of the Sierra .45 shot capsules and Tried some shot in them:
    #3 Buck is Large enough to not sit in Layers.
    #4 Buck is also Large enough to not sit in layers.
    #4 Bird will sit in a Layer of five with one Shot slightly up in the Middle. A full Capsule of this weighs about 170 Grains.
    #5 Bird will sit in loose 5 ball ring around a 6th shot in the Middle. A full Capsule of this weighs about 160 grains.

    I have no smaller shot to Try in them Yet.

    Chev. William
    Last edited by Chev. William; 10-23-2019 at 08:59 PM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    9,078
    If one wants to solder the two tubes together without annealing the case head one can simply stand the head in water.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Chev. William's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Sun Valley, California
    Posts
    1,956
    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    If the .32 S&W Or .32 S&W Long can be resized to the correct Diameter of the .32 RF.
    Then why cant the .32 H & R mag be resized and modified to make the .32 RF casings for a Longer case like a shotshell.
    I have a .32 RF Leader and a box of Navy Arms .32 Long RF ammo, but have never shot it.
    But if I shoot the ammo that I do have, I want to reload the original casings with the same method as they use to reprime the .22 LR casings.
    But I need to make a Heeled bullet mold for the .32 RF before I start, or a Shot Shell or Buck Ball round might be something to play with in the mean time.
    Check out "Accurate Mold" Catalog on line.
    There is also "Matt's Bullets" that has a 90 grain Heeled Bullet Mold he can Cast for you.
    Chev. William

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check