So Mr Sheesh your saying once its been sighted in you should not have to sight it in again correct????
So Mr Sheesh your saying once its been sighted in you should not have to sight it in again correct????
The target turrets on so many new scopes as well as the quick focus eye piece bring their own problems to a hunting scope such as getting turned by accident- I've seen it happen.
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Thank you, I thought I was losing my mind!!! Sometimes it doesn't pay to listen to others, I guess??
The turrets on my scopes are either covered with caps(hunting scopes) or have reference marks that I have adjusted to zero out when the rifle is sighted in(target style). I check the location of the marks before I start shooting and go from there.
I usually shoot a fouling shot before any serious shooting. This one is often an inch or two away from where the group will be at 200 yards. Wind and temp make a difference in impact point for really accurate shooting as well.
A lot depends on how small a spot you are trying to hit and how far away it is.
For hunting accuracy, even my fouling shot will be good for deer size game. For gopher and very small animals, I need to be within 100 yards for the fouling shot to hit. After the fouling shot I am good to go on small targets to 200 yards.
Come to think of it - I know MAYBE why they said that.
Some people change their elevation settings with turrets a LOT. So they see a 600 yard shot and change the POA 57 (or whatever) clicks downwards, then take that shot. And then by the time they're done, no one knows what their elevation is set to. And change the windage setting each time to make up for the wind.
Take a shot at 600 yards with that and forget to set the turrets back to your normal zero, then pick it up a couple days later and TRY, just TRY, to make an easy hit at 100 yards - Uh good luck!
I grew up varminting and once I have a zero I don't touch the turrets - I do the windage and holdover in my built-in ballistic computer. WOrks pretty well for me. Takes practice though!
Do what works for you - but, if you are changing turret settings for windage or holdover, you have to be super OCD if you want to end up with a zeroed rifle later.
(Those with marked turret knobs probably have an easier time here. Not tried that.)
Way back in time, we used Leupold and Weaver T scopes. After sighting in we'd set our knobs to zero so we could tell right away if your buddy moved your dials while you went for a break from prairie doggin'....
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I was lucky and buddies all had their own hardware, we had an agreement that "you don't mess up my rig and I won't growl at you" sorta LOL - Never had an issue on that. Helps if you all trained the same.
Leupolds mostly, VX2 and 3's, some Reddings and Weavers. A very few of other less noble scopes.
Reminds me, I need to upgrade one scope, maybe I'll transfer a Weaver off one older rifle and upgrade that one to a VX3.
Last time I looked Leupold still sold those high end, straight 6 x scopes. They have excellent glass and their heavy cross hair option for low light - woods use...
Currently only Leo and Weaver offer a straight 4 or 6 and Leo is the cheap one . Leo offers the standard duplex .
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I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .
Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18
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Once I've got my scope zeroed it stays that way unless it needs tweaking if its moved slightly .my scopes have mil dot or ballistic plex ,ranging is the hard part!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |