Melting scrap FMJ

[old benn]

About to melt scrap bollits from Son's indoor bullet trap. contains several FMJ (9mm) that have no
lead exposed. Complete jacket. When these are in the pot with other assorted rejects to be made
into ingots, must I be concerned about what happens too the jackets in the melt as it heats up?

[Tom W.]

Yup. If there isn't a crack to allow the molten lead to escape there's a good chance of explosion. Just hit them with a hammer to crack the jacket.

[sawinredneck]

You won't get any lead out of them unless the jacket is thinner than paper! Unless you want to melt the copper and try to mix it in with the lead somehow, I'd just separate them and not waste the fuel heating them up.

[Bullwolf]

Smack the jacketed bullets with a hammer.

(I use a framing hammer, not a finishing hammer)

If they are plated instead of jacketed, you don't always have to break the copper plating.

Either way, its a good idea melt range scrap down like this using a lid on your smelting pot to help prevent lead squirts and other unpleasantness.



- Bullwolf

[sawinredneck]

Yup. If there isn't a crack to allow the molten lead to escape there's a good chance of explosion. Just hit them with a hammer to crack the jacket.

Hadn't even considered that.

[psweigle]

I use a pair of side cutters to cut the jacket.

[Shepherd2]

I've always used side cutters to put a good cut in the jacket. I've never used a hammer but I'm going to give it a try next time I smelt FMJs.

[Sasquatch-1]

I have never had one explode. I have had a small hole where the lead came squirting out under pressure.
As mentioned hammer or side cutters work. Don't do this while the bullets are hot.
Save your jackets, they have value.

[mold maker]

FMJs can squirt a stream for over a foot, that is so fine, you won't notice till it hits your skin. I just smack them with a waffle faced hammer while drying on the drive. Since finding a live 22 round in the range scrap melt, I tumble wash it in a cement mixer which allows better inspection, and less dross.

[lightman]

I deform them, either with a hammer or linemans pliers. It does not take much but you need to do something to rupture the jacket.

[higgins]

My all-purpose anvil is a piece of railroad rail about a foot long. Most of the plated bullets I've recovered from outdoor ranges are already nicked somewhere from hitting gravel or other bullets. I've cut a nick in them with a cold chisel, and with cutters. I've had some that would crack when hit with a heavy hammer, but I also found that some of them have unbelievably durable plated jackets; that's when I started nicking them with a chisel after I mashed them with a hammer and the jackets wouldn't crack.

It doesn't take much of a nick to let the molten lead out, but under come conditions they will quirt lead several inches. Be careful.

[old benn]

That was very quick and very much appreciated. Dave B.

[MyFlatline]

All spot on, whack em with a hammer, same happens with my mined 45 round balls..I have had them "spew" be very careful.

[fredj338]

They aren't FMJ nut plated. As noted, smash tem with a hammer. Goes really fast with a 4# sledge.

[Tazza]

+1 for side cutters.

Never had one explode or spray either, but i can understand that it is a possibility.

Thankfully i don't get many FMJs, i try and nip them and drop in the pot, pick up with pointy nose pliers and let the lead flow out. I then put the jackets a side to sell for scrap copper. Scrap jackets and cases can be used to fund more primers or scrap lead.

[WRideout]

I've had similar experience. I put a lid on my smelting pot now to avoid squirting lead, but it also greatly reduces the time it takes to get the lead up to temperature.

Wayne

[Texas by God]

Sounds like exercise/therapy combined!

[copdills]

smack those bad boys and get that lead

[ioon44]

Just don't smack your thumb in the process, voice of experience.

[mold maker]

Yep. If ya smack your finger with a framing hammer, you'll quickly realize why it's called waffle faced.