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Thread: Vaporizing Milk Jugs

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Vaporizing Milk Jugs

    Im looking to buy a Mold from NOE for my SP101 .357 and my Match Champion
    to do 1 thing,
    I want to Vaporize Milk Jugs,,OK my G?F wants to Vaporize them,
    WE saw a tube vid of a Lady with a 44 mag doing just that, and now my G?F wants to do it,
    a new mold is cheaper than a 44 Mag NO i WONT buy a 44 mag

    I don't want a wrist breaker, or she will not be happy she likes shooting 38's with the lee 105SWC, but all they do is put leaky holes in milk jugs
    this does not make momma happy

    what mold would you buy to Make a G?F HAPPY? IN .357/38 ?
    360-160-WFN ? casting with the hollow point?
    360-148-WC-HB ? flipped or not ?

    those are my guesses and there just guesses

    Ill be powder coating whatever i shoot
    lead/WW mix?
    mix it soft? or hard?

    thanks all for helping me make Momma happy

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Beagle333's Avatar
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    I like the 360-160 WFN in HP. It shoots like a laser out of my GP100 and will make a really nice splash too.
    Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Well, if she wants a good reaction from a milk jug she will have to use a round with a lot of authority. Try a heavier bullet with a much softer alloy.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    A 38 is never going to perform like a 44mag, but the 357 will come close. So what you need to do is use a heavy bullet in the 1200fps range or more. She may not like shooting it, but that is what it takes.
    L.E.C.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Sorry guy's, but I'm going in the other direction. If I wanted to make a lot of hydraulic shock and try to explode a milk jug, I'd go with a 110 or 125 gr j-bullet hollow point with a lotta' lead exposed and driven as fast as you SAFELY can. Your SP101 might not have a long enough barrel to get the velocity up but ....the only way to find out is to load 'em up ad get to shootin'. Good luck and hang on the GF who likes to shoot and let us know how this turns out. Pics are always welcomed.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    Sorry guy's, but I'm going in the other direction. If I wanted to make a lot of hydraulic shock and try to explode a milk jug, I'd go with a 110 or 125 gr j-bullet hollow point with a lotta' lead exposed and driven as fast as you SAFELY can. Your SP101 might not have a long enough barrel to get the velocity up but ....the only way to find out is to load 'em up ad get to shootin'. Good luck and hang on the GF who likes to shoot and let us know how this turns out. Pics are always welcomed.
    The correct answer. The lightest bullet you can find, with the deepest hollow point available, driven as fast as the gun can handle will provide the best terminal result on water filled milk jugs.
    My Straight Shooters thread:
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master






    Lloyd Smale's Avatar
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    yup buy a box of 110 jacketed hp and roar them. It takes a pretty good wack to VAPORIZE a milk jug. Tell you what really works in cast is my old 50 Alaskan shooting a 400 grain hp cast out of pure at about 1800 fps. tell you what doesn't do it! a 38 special or any light recoiling handgun shooting cast.
    Soldier of God, sixgun junky, Retired electrical lineman. My office was a 100 feet in the air, closer to God the better

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Hollow base wadcutter loaded backwards.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    I'm in the light weight crowd. 110 grain hp and a case full of 110 or 296. Maybe let her shoot a 223 with a plastic tip bullet like a V-Max.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    I'm in the light weight crowd. 110 grain hp and a case full of 110 or 296. Maybe let her shoot a 223 with a plastic tip bullet like a V-Max.
    Oh yeah, a 36 or 40 grain varmint bullet out of a .223 rifle will leave nothing but mist.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master OS OK's Avatar
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    She said 'vaporize' right? . . . "C-4...it doesn't leave unsightly broken plastic jugs everywhere..."
    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

    "A handshake or your word is all it takes…don't screw that up."…charlie

  12. #12
    Boolit Master scattershot's Avatar
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    I'll have to throw in with the light fast bullet guys, too. Also, try the large bottles of soda, too. They really make an awesome display.
    "Experience is a series of non-fatal mistakes"


    Disarming is a mistake free people only get to make once...

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    Sorry guy's, but I'm going in the other direction. If I wanted to make a lot of hydraulic shock and try to explode a milk jug, I'd go with a 110 or 125 gr j-bullet hollow point with a lotta' lead exposed and driven as fast as you SAFELY can. Your SP101 might not have a long enough barrel to get the velocity up but ....the only way to find out is to load 'em up ad get to shootin'. Good luck and hang on the GF who likes to shoot and let us know how this turns out. Pics are always welcomed.
    Another concurrence with this post.

    Either buy a box of 110 gr HPs (some are loaded pretty light) or preferably Winchester or Federal 125 gr 357 magnum HPs. The Win or Fed 125s will do the best job of splattering milk jugs of water. My wife shoots them out of her (I thought it was mine when I bought it......) 2 1/2" M19 S&W w/o problems. Excellent ear protection is a must, I suggest foam plugs and muffs.

    Larry Gibson

  14. #14
    Boolit Man
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    Tannerite.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I'm not standing within 100yds of Tannerite! I suggest a 105 Lee cast of pure lead and drill it out deep to HP. Load it fast. Also the Hornady Critical Defense pink Cancer Awareness 95 grs are pretty waspy.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    some good replys, BUT, I'm not buying a 223, Im NOT buying any store bought ammo,

    I want to cast my own,

    give me some NOE Mold ideas folks
    did any of my above choices look good?
    lead mix?

  17. #17
    Boolit Man
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    I would use a light weight bullet an drive it as fast as I safely could. Ad food coloring to the water in the jug while your at it

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Anything driven fast enough will do the job, but there is a huge difference between .38 Special and .44 Magnum. If you're thinking you accomplish the same effect with .38 Special you will be disappointed regardless of the mold.

    I'd try soft lead for expansion and any hollow point mold. Lighter would probably be better since it will be traveling faster given equal pressure.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    For the hydrolic effect your looking for a light hollow point moving as fast as possible will give the results desired. Something 110-125 grns with a large deep hollow point ( you need to dump all that energy and velocity into the water in the jug not behind it in the backstop). Another trick to milk jugs is to glue the caps on when filled to seal and allow more pressure to build before the jug lets go. Water ballons can be impressive targets also. What I would try first is suggested above 110 grn sierra hollow cavities loaded to full +p velocities or better still full house magnum velocities. Then test the performance on the jugs. A mould that cast a bullet similar with hollow point can be purchased. We used to get dented cans cases of tomato soup from work and used them for targets with different rounds and distances. The sealed cans and tin really could be spectacular with some rounds. 16 ounce were good for 22s the 48 ounce were better for the bigger rounds. Watch the supermarkets for dented can sales of tomato soup or others similar for her to use for targets. Empty latex paint cans have enough left if filled with water and sealed will leave a big splash also.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Not what the OP is looking for, but I've found that 125gr JHP's from a .35 Whelen do pretty well.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check