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Thread: Old Ballard

  1. #1
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Old Ballard

    Earlier this year I picked up an old Ballard. I originally picked it up as a parts gun, as I felt it was not just grungy, but also had the frame modified to make the Ballard a takedown. The receiver was split down the bottom, and a tensioning screw added to clamp/loosen the barrel, to allow the forearm assembly to be removed.



    Additionally the buttstock had been dissected and a piece added the entire length of the top 1/3rd. Butt area had been cut flat, and guessing it once was a Swiss buttplate, as used in the Union Hill Ballard.



    Not a terrible gun, but combined with the receiver, I felt it was best to make it a parts gun. But I talked to a gunsmith friend about welding up the split in the receiver, and he recommended I leave it alone, and shoot it. Said the forged receiver was plenty strong, and the system someone had built had likely been there a very long time, and was working well. He added that it was the same system a Greener Martini used, and they were chambered in much heavier cartridges than the .38-55 this Ballard was chambered in.
    So I decided to leave it alone, but refinished the stocks to make it a little less ugly.



    Still the different color wood and lack of vertical striping in the wood made the added wood stand out. So I began a search for a replacement stock. After asking many people, a friend contacted me with an offer of a non factory stock, but still a very nice solid stock. It also had the same patina as the forearm and the gun, but missing the buttplate and grip cap. But it was a great match to the gun, and had a slightly over length of pull, which suited my long arms well!




    I ordered a repro Ballard hard rubber buttplate, which measured slightly long, and wide, except for a couple areas that fit perfect. Needed to work it down, but avoid the close fitting areas. I started out by inletting the stock to accept the point on the top of the Ballard plate. Then I boiled the plate and shaped it to the stock before it cooled.
    The buttplate also had an issue with the lower screw hole, as the custom stock sits higher, and the lower screw hole was in line with the through bolt that holds thee stock! So I filled the buttplate with black RTV and drilled and recessed a new screw hole lower. Then screwed it on and carefully worked down the edges to fit the stock. The RTV shrank a bit, so need to give it another dab to fill it smooth.



    Found some ebony wood in my wood scraps, and made a grip cap of ebony. Attached it with a single small screw, and it finished off the grip area properly. The finished stock looks much better, and makes the gun a lot nicer looking, and a nicer feel also.


  2. #2
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    Very nice resurrection of a "parts gun"! Great workmanship on your part and a pleasure to see that it will be put back into service again!
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Thanks Al! Will be taking it along next month to our annual long range shoot and see how she does. The bore is excellent, so just need to slug it and see if ammo I have now will be correct bullet size, or if I need to load up more before mid July.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Very nice

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Hooker53's Avatar
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    Looks great. Glad to see someone else likes that black ebony as I do!! I will have my Firt Ballard one day. Ki da thinking on a #2. Like to find a fixer upper!! Good work on your part.

    Roy
    Hooker53.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Ah yes. . .the infamous "weak" Ballard action. . .which you can still shoot after splitting the front receiver ring down down the middle.

    Soooo. . .lemme get this straight. . .they only cut through the bottom of the action, and only at the front? And they were somehow prying it open to get a barrel in and out? Were the receiver and barrel spud modified too?

    I don't know whether to gasp in horror at the "Bubba-ness" of it all, or kneel at their altar of Redneck Engineering, but good on you for keeping her flying!
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy blackbahart's Avatar
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    it was fashioned after the greener martini system take down ,which has a setting screw which tightens the threads to the barrel and when loosened will allow hand unthreading of the barrel off the receiver ....NO PRYING ,cause thats how things really become parts

    Looks good ! Nicer without the paddle stock

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbahart View Post
    it was fashioned after the greener martini system take down ,which has a setting screw which tightens the threads to the barrel and when loosened will allow hand unthreading of the barrel off the receiver ....NO PRYING ,cause thats how things really become parts

    Looks good ! Nicer without the paddle stock
    Ok. . .THAT makes more sense. . .in a makes-my-brain-scream sort of way.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments!
    Yes, whoever did it was thinking Greener Martini, and copied that system. They even index marked the barrel to align with the receiver cut, so when you turn it into position you align the marks.
    The Ballard is considered a weaker action than several other single shots from that era, but at least they used a forged action, and not a cast action.


    Hooker, my first Ballard (30 years ago) was a #2 in .38 Long. I had a collection of pre WWI Marlin repeaters and felt I should own a Ballard to complete my collection. Had over 100 Marlin repeaters at the time, and after buying that #2 Ballard I fell in love with the design. Today I only own two pre WWI era Marlin repeaters, as I sold them all and replaced them with Ballard rifles.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Hooker53's Avatar
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    The #2 just calls out to me for some reason. Ha. I would like to find a project action. If you had that many, I can see why you go by MarlinMan. Ha. Keep up the good work.

    Roy
    Hooker53

  11. #11
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Project actions are nearly impossible to find, and often project guns are much cheaper than actions. Considering the narrow window of calibers a #2 can be chambered in, I'd look for a complete gun, and never consider an action for rebarreling to a different caliber than what they came in.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Speaking of project actions, about 20 years ago I found a more-or-less complete Ballard #2 block assembly in one of the late Charlie Dell's cigar boxes on a shelf in his shop. Then I found a stripped (cast) action on Gun Broker and made an offer to get it along with its internal tang. Next came a take-off target rifle barrel from the '50s or '60s contributed by former ASSRA Schuetzenmeister Jim Borton at a "friends and family" price and finally was gifted a stock blank that Ken Hurst had gotten somewhere. I sent all the pieces to my late friend Joe Harz and after a suitable wait got back a shootable rimfire Ballard... thus was born the semi-famous "FrankenBallard." It ain't pretty, and in truth it really ain't finished, but it IS mine!

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
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    To my long distance e-friend, Marlinman93, would you agree that a guy would be more likely to find an abused complete #2 rifle or a '40s or '50s vintage position rifle (for Bullseye 22) than an actual project action? In the nearly 30 years I've been trolling around the edges of the single shot game, that's been my experience. I don't think I've seen more than about 3-4 separate actions in total.

    If I were going to build a Ballard rifle from scratch, it would be a cast action rimfire (or maybe a pistol caliber, or if I were starting with a forged action, one of the classic hyphenated calibers (32-40, 38-55, 45-70, etc) My "original" Pacific (mismatched numbers) has a marginal bore with 40-90 chambering and I've been thinking about having Bobby Hoyt rebore it to 45-70 to add to its shoot-ability. Oddly enough this original barrel has no caliber marking on it now.

    Your Phriend the Phrog

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  14. #14
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Yes Froggie, I would whole heartedly agree with your thinking on finding a Ballard action vs. finding a complete gun!
    I would also agree with your thoughts on what to build off a cast or forged action! But seems some thought differently, as I've seen so many CF rifle calibers built on cast actions, and some RF .22LR built on forged actions.
    But most of the forged actions made into .22RF guns were done back when these old guns had little value, and nobody thought twice about using a fine forged frame to build a .22RF Schuetzen rifle! I own two forged receiver .22RF schuetzen rifles that by chance were both built on pistol grip frame PG actions, and one is a heavy non rebated frame! My Zettler Bros. Ballard is built on a #6 Schuetzen, and is chambered in .22 Short, which was very popular for indoor matches 125 years ago!
    The other is a .22LR and has a Pope lever and palm rest, but no maker's marks anywhere. The whole gun is a very high grade schuetzen, and I wonder why such a high end gun was not marked by the maker?
    Some have commented that it's a waste of a forged receiver, when a cast would be more than adequate for .22RF. But I'd guess the makers wanted the pistol grip receiver, and didn't have access to a PG frame in cast, like a #3F would have.

    Zettler Bros.





    Unmarked Schuetzen .22



    Last edited by marlinman93; 06-22-2017 at 12:37 PM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    If I were going to build a Ballard rifle from scratch, it would be a cast action rimfire (or maybe a pistol caliber. . .
    A viable (and REALLY FUN) option is re-lining a rotted out .38 Long to a .38 Long Colt. This was the approach suggested by Taylor and acted upon by my Dad on his reversible firing pin Marlin #2. This dispenses with the heeled bullet design, lets you use your common-diameter .38 Special molds, prevents accidental chambering of a +P Special in the cast action, and you could cut down Special brass to length if you needed to. I forget the exact mold procured, but it's a large grease groove 154 or 155 grain LFN profile atop Hodgdon Triple 7. End result is a low-noise, honest 2-MOA rifle that still delivers pretty respectable swat on the usual kinetic plinker targets at 100 yards.

    I expect you could do much the same for cast-action Ballards in the .32 family. End result is one of those ridiculously fun guns that you tend to burn through at least 100 rounds through per session.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    A #2 in .32 Long could be relined to .32 Long Colt, but that's a heeled bullet also. A better choice would be either .32 S&W Short or Long. Regular bullets, and plentiful cases for either.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check