I used WD-40 in the beginning. Then I found out Ballistol was made for guns, mixed with water, but left just the oil behind when the water evaporated. Can't ask for more than that. Love the stuff.
I always flush with water then use WD40 or Alcohol to disperse water and then oil with Break Free or Rem Oil.
Windex with vinegar is best. Ammonia based window cleaner is hard on bluing.
I too have heard the WD-40 thing on fishing lures. I have also worked on guns that had "varnished" up due to WD-40. I keep it far away from my guns! I don't even think I have any at the house/shop. I use Kroil and CLP for just about everything.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
Thanks!!!!
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FWIW, vinegar is an acid. Good for cleaning but don't leave it on there. I like the windex with ammonia, but, keep it off the bluing. That's what makes it good in the bore
I just clean the bore with water. Then use WD40 to get rid of water, wipe and swab in some oil.
The action, if disassembled, gets dunked in water, cleaned off with WD40, then wiped and oiled and reassembled. If I am not disassembling the lock I just clean it with a brush and oil.
i like dihydrogen monoxide for dissolving black powder residue. pretty cheap and plentiful, too.
Cleaning is necessary. Your decision is how thorough a job?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |