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Thread: Winchester 190 Barrel Nut Wrench

  1. #1
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    Winchester 190 Barrel Nut Wrench

    Does anybody know of a source for a spanner type wrench for this? I picked one up real cheap a while back, have it broken down detail cleaning it and plan to refinish the stock. The barrel nut loosening on these was apparently a chronic problem and eventually makes the rifle unreliable.

    I'm pretty sure I can make something that will work, but would rather save myself the trouble.

  2. #2
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    I took one apart one time. believe I just wrapped a set of vice-grips good with maskin' tape but, been so long ago, can't swear to it.

    luck & have a good'en, bubba.

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    Wondering if something like this would work?
    Last edited by Pressman; 09-23-2020 at 09:38 AM.

  4. #4
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    If you filed the pin flat, it might work.

    However, you really don't need a special spanner wrench to tighten one barrel nut. I bought one with a slightly loose barrel that I tightened by using a small pin punch and judicious blows with a light hammer. Once the forearm is off it is pretty easy.

    If mine ever loosens again, I plan to use either some monofilament fishing line to sort of make a nylock nut, or use some blue loctite on it.

    Robert

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    I'll figure something out. Trying to stay away from tapping it with a punch if I can help it.

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    if the curve in the wrench you linked is anywhere near right & the metal soft enough to file to fit the notch in the barrel nut it should work okay. I have seen stamped steel choke tube and fore-end nut wrenches that had the tabs for the notches bent down on the ends. somethin' like that may also work. another thought is the spanner wrenches for removin' the keeper nut on side-grinders might could be made to work.

    luck with yer project & have a good'en, bubba.

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    I ordered one of the wrenches I mentioned and it arrived yesterday. Worked well, and I got about a full turn on that nut tightening it back up. Spent some time this evening scrubbing all the internal parts, the little rifle was filthy and gunked up.

    The reason I bought it is because it was designed to run shorts, longs or long rifles and I'm hoping it'll run the quiet CCI frangible hollow point ammo. Hopefully I'll get it back together tomorrow and find out.

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    glad it all worked out for ya. used to have one of those myself & bein' able to use all three s,l,lr was one thing I really liked about it. but I always wondered if havin' a recoil spring light enough to cycle shorts mighta been one reason for the receiver crackin' at the ejection port. from the bolt slammin' back from usin' high-vel long rifles in it.

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    Well getting the recoil spring and guide rod back in was a minor PITA, but I got it done then broke the plastic pin that holds the trigger assembly in. New ones are available and cheap, so I'll do that, but wondering if a trip to the hardware store for a roll pin of the appropriate size might work.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Yeah, I meant to warn you about the recoil spring. I found out how tough they were when I took Dad's 190 apart one day when I was about twelve.

    Interestingly, the one I have now is marked 22S,L, or L.R., but the one Dad bought new ~1972 was marked 22 Long or Long Rifle only. It did reliably cycle shorts, as long as it was clean though. I haven't tried any in the current one, Shorts have been pretty much unobtainable lately.

    Glad the new tool worked out for you.

    Robert

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    Put it together as best I could today. Shot 30 rounds or so through it and got several failures to feed and a couple of misfires. Bolt seems sticky sometimes, I guess I need to strip it down and really polish moving parts. I was using high velocity long rifles, gotta try to see if it'll function with the quiet stuff. I also need to look around my junk for a suitable scope and get some real accuracy testing done.

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    I had one years ago that was long rifle only, it was a jamb o matic, so it didn't hang around the house long. I didn't know they were made to shoot short, long, LR, I guess there wasn't to many companies that offered that.

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    Yeah, this one needs to get better pretty soon. I'm kind of a bolt action fan for .22s, and wouldn't have bought this one except that I wanted a fast repeater with quiet ammo. Might should have held out for one of the Remington pumps. We'll see.

    One of the complaints I've heard about the 190s is that the triggers are real bad, but this one's is OK, pretty decent actually. I'll get a scope on it and see what really accuracy potential it has soon.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Any Cal.'s Avatar
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    I had one that worked well. Routinely shot it out to 300 yds with a 4x scope on it. Never jammed unless it got terribly filthy. Used to go through lots of bricks of .22 with it. Trigger was really heavy, but was accurate if you could deal with it.

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    I was out of town for a week and in the mean time, the plastic pins I ordered came in so I installed one, then mounted a scope I had lying around on it and tried the CCI Quiet Frangible Hollow point stuff through it. About 30 rounds all told zeroing and shooting a couple of groups and it does function reliably with the quiet ammo (not nearly as quiet as the old CB caps) and is sure accurate enough for squirrel hunting at 25 yards.

    I like my single shots and bolt guns, but there are times where an auto loader is an advantage. I think I'm gonna have fun with this rifle. Kinda makes you wonder how many .22 rifles are out there that their owners have given up on that only need a stripping and cleaning.

  16. #16
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    I realize this is an old thread however in the interest of these oldie but goodie rifles, I will mention a problem and fix related to them. This problem relates to "sticky bolt" issues and failure to feed and/or fire issues.
    If you bought yours second hand or you subjected the rifle to much dry fire, the above problems may surface. Mine was bought second band and the previous owner must have done a bit of dry firing.
    What will result from excessive dry firing is peening of the chamber mouth at 6 o'clock. This will raise enough metal at the bottom of the chamber to cause feed and extraction issues.
    The Fix
    Disassemble the rifle as you would to expose the barrel nut. Back the barrel nut completely out of the receiver. Put some tape around the barrel where it goes into the receiver to mark how deep the barrel is in the receiver. Using a plastic non marring mallet, tap the front sight to gradually move the barrel straight out of the receiver. I mentioned straight out of the receiver because the rear of the barrel is knurled and those knurls will line backup into shallow grooves when you reinstall the barrel into the receiver.
    Once you have removed the barrel, you can access the rear of the chamber. On my rifle I used an appropriate size chainsaw file, or fine cut round file to remove the painting and restore the chamber to its original state. You can check the chamber by taking a 22 long rifle round and dropping it into the chamber and tipping the Barrel upside down and observing the 22-round falling out.
    Once you have restored the rear of the chamber where there's no obstruction for the bullets to pass in and out, you reinstall the barrel and tighten the barrel nut and put the rifle back together.
    One important thing to be aware of is when the barrel goes back into the receiver the knurls will line up with shallow grooves in the receiver. The knurling was created on the barrel to help with a press-fit and also to keep the barrel from rotating. Is very important to make sure you have the front sight at 12 with respect to the receiver when you put the barrel back in. You can gently tap the barrel back in with the plastic Mallet until the tape is against the receiver. Then you start the barrel nut into the threads with your fingers and then finish tightening it with some type of spanner wrench. Then reassemble the rifle and test fire. The preceding process is what I had to do to my rifle and it has restored it to complete function with all types of ammo. Evidently the firing pin is hardened and the rear of the barrel is not or at least it's not as hard as the firing pin so constant dry firing will eventually peen the chamber mouth at 6 and raise enough metal to interfere with feeding and extracting.
    Last edited by joker18; 09-06-2020 at 02:28 PM. Reason: Spelling

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy Landy88's Avatar
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    Dad and Mom bought me a 190, 290s like Dad's were unavailable, when I was five. Even at old-time 22 prices I must've quickly cost them more in ammo than had the rifle. That quite accurate and reliable little rifle is still ready for use and in fine condition, after all of these years; but I took very good care of it. The slightest neglect or negligence in its use would've meant an end to the ammo supply and more. Gun care and safety were two of the very few things about which they were strict. Parent gifted guns are special - I regret selling a shotgun from them.
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  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    I was gifted a Winchester Model 250 Lever in college for Christmas. Short, Long, and Long Rifle. As mentioned, the barrel nut worked loose. Used an AR castle nut wrench to tighten up. Still shoots great with a little BSA Sweet 22 on it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by joker18 View Post
    I realize this is an old thread however in the interest of these oldie but goodie rifles, I will mention a problem and fix related to them. This problem relates to "sticky bolt" issues and failure to feed and/or fire issues.
    If you bought yours second hand or you subjected the rifle to much dry fire, the above problems may surface. Mine was bought second band and the previous owner must have done a bit of dry firing.
    What will result from excessive dry firing is peening of the chamber mouth at 6 o'clock. This will raise enough metal at the bottom of the chamber to cause feed and extraction issues.
    The Fix
    Disassemble the rifle as you would to expose the barrel nut. Back the barrel nut completely out of the receiver. Put some tape around the barrel where it goes into the receiver to mark how deep the barrel is in the receiver. Using a plastic non marring mallet, tap the front sight to gradually move the barrel straight out of the receiver. I mentioned straight out of the receiver because the rear of the barrel is knurled and those knurls will line backup into shallow grooves when you reinstall the barrel into the receiver.
    Once you have removed the barrel, you can access the rear of the chamber. On my rifle I used an appropriate size chainsaw file, or fine cut round file to remove the painting and restore the chamber to its original state. You can check the chamber by taking a 22 long rifle round and dropping it into the chamber and tipping the Barrel upside down and observing the 22-round falling out.
    Once you have restored the rear of the chamber where there's no obstruction for the bullets to pass in and out, you reinstall the barrel and tighten the barrel nut and put the rifle back together.
    One important thing to be aware of is when the barrel goes back into the receiver the knurls will line up with shallow grooves in the receiver. The knurling was created on the barrel to help with a press-fit and also to keep the barrel from rotating. Is very important to make sure you have the front sight at 12 with respect to the receiver when you put the barrel back in. You can gently tap the barrel back in with the plastic Mallet until the tape is against the receiver. Then you start the barrel nut into the threads with your fingers and then finish tightening it with some type of spanner wrench. Then reassemble the rifle and test fire. The preceding process is what I had to do to my rifle and it has restored it to complete function with all types of ammo. Evidently the firing pin is hardened and the rear of the barrel is not or at least it's not as hard as the firing pin so constant dry firing will eventually peen the chamber mouth at 6 and raise enough metal to interfere with feeding and extracting.
    I never have gotten this one to be very reliable and got side tracked on it, it's sitting waiting for me to either get back to it or get rid of it. I may have to check that 6 o'clock part of the chamber and see.

    I have pretty much decided to never mess with any autoloading .22 rifles again unless they are Ruger 10/22s or Remington Nylon 66s, those are the only two that are actually reliable. Sticking to bolt actions from here on out, I'd rather spend time shooting than tinkering with one.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check