Amazing what proper lubes and boolit fit can accomplish, ain't it.
Amazing what proper lubes and boolit fit can accomplish, ain't it.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Aftermarket barrels made sense for Gen 2 Glocks in 40 S&W due to large unsupported case head areas in the chambers of those pistols, which caused the infamous GLOCK BULGE. Mods made to chambers in Gen 3 Glock 40 S&Ws to provide better case head support showed that Glock was paying attention to citizen and LE complaints about kB incidents and not taking cover behind their "Use only new factory ammo in the Glock pistols".
The leading problems in Glock pistols have the same causes as any other barrel that leads up--undersized bullets due to either initial over-small bullet diameters or "created" undersizing by tooling dimensions--expander spuds too small (size-down by case mouth) or misuse/over-use of taper-crimping dies.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
"Guppied" = "blevied" = distended/expanded outside normal parameters due to high pressures within unsupported environments. In this case, the unsupported "6 o'clock" portion of the Glock's rear chamber in some models and calibers. I have watched for this condition in my new-series Gen 3 Glock 20 SF and 29 SF variants very closely. To date, using both W-W and Starline brass and running 180 grain bullets to 1175 in the shorty and 1250 FPS in the longer barrel, no "smilies" or "Glock bulges" have shown themselves yet. Most of my loads use slower-for-application powders--AA-9, Blue Dot, and AA-7.
I'll keep looking, because my theory has been and remains that the "Glock 40 Caliber Ka-Boom" mystery has to do with this distended case portion being ironed back into proper form as cases were repeatedly reloaded, resulting in a work-hardening process in these areas of the brass case. Murphy's Law gets no plea bargains, and eventually a case's base area gets weakened enough through repetitious reworking that its ability to contain pressures is compromised. That reworked area finds its way to overlay the unsupported chamber portion--the 35K PSI gasses get loose in the receiver, and the pistol's bottom half gets destroyed. This is not common--it doesn't happen with new ammo/cases--but it did occur often enough to cause concern. Design changes to Glock Gen 3 40 caliber pistols seem to have caused these instances to dwindle in frequency.
The distention I have seen in older Gen 2 40 S&W Glock pistols is between 15% and 30% of a case base's circumference, and can be both seen and felt. In my family's 3 Glock 40 S&W Gen 3 pistols, this characteristic has been absent entirely in R-P and W-W brass.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
I got my Glock Meister shooting cast 155 gr SWC in my G22 and G35 and one of my sons won 3 guns and was Match Meister also shooting my cast bullets and pistols. No leading in them and in my G17 as well.
I'll get around to trying castings in the Glock 40s and 10s sooner or later. I have a healthy supply of Hornady 180 HAP bullets in the meantime (about 1200, at last count) so it take a bit of time. Christmas gifts!
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
Update to post 17: I have fixed the FTFs, but am still having problems. My latest details are in a newer thread at post 27 of:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...18-9mm-leading
Maybe try a cast lead friendly powder? Here's a list from precision bullets. http://www.precisionbullets.com/faq.html
Vihtavuori – N-320/N-340
Ramshot – Competition/Zip
Winchester – WST
Alliant – American Select/Power Pistol
Hodgdon – Universal Clays/HP38
I have considered powder. For burn rate, Titegroup is midpack for what people usually consider good for a 9 mm. I have pushed Titegroup pretty hard under PC boolits in lots of other guns with no problems at all (327 Fed, 357 mag, 357 max, 44 mag). Also, the leading problem is with a lighter than typical boolit, 110 grn.
Still, slower might be better for leading. My only on-hand choice that is slower but reasonable would be Unique. Unique is probably "slower than optimal" (i.e. likely to be dirty as sin) for a light load 110 grn in a 9mm. I may try some if needed after I finish running the current tests.
I would really rather "fix" the problem with something like the right combination of powder charge, lube and sizing that does not require any new investment or on-going increase in cost per round (this will be high volume round).
If I need to spend money on something new, my first choice will probably be to try the Lee 120 TC that seems to be popular and have the least problems in a 9 mm for a Lee mold.
Which PC are you using? is the polyester one from Smoke4320? I loaded up a bunch of clear PC boolits with titegroup to test this weekend. I'm hoping it'll work 'cause I got 8lbs of it to burn through.
I have never lead yet. I size my 9mm to .357 and lube with the NRA 50/50 mix. Bullets are sized and lubed with my Star sizer /lubricator. I have used ANY powder and simply keep the speed at 1100 or slightly below. I have used lead that was straight lead as tested with my tester all the way up to 14 for hardness. Powder has not been a factor to me in leading. In the case of a Glock I simply switched to a Lone Wolf barrel instead of trying to shoot lead thru the Glock barrel.
The wife shoots lead thru her Springfield XDE no leading. She shoots lead thru her S&W 669 no leading. I shoot lead thru my CM9 Gen2 Sarsilmaz 9mm no leading. Last my Glock 23 with a Lone Wolf 9mm conversion barrel no leading.
I have come to the conclusion 3 factors have to be met and satisfied. One is fit, the second is lube, the third is speed. Now, these are my ideas in which other may not agree with but when I follow these I don't lead. When I try to cheat with cheap lube I will lead. When I exceed my speed limit I have set I lead. When I don't pay attention to fit bullet too loose or too tight I lead.
While people myself included have experienced no leading with a Glock factory barrel there are exceptions that I have seen that no matter what you seem to try you always get some leading. Generally speaking when I follow my three rules I don't lead.
One thing I have learned with 50+ years of shooting is trying to cheap out on components always leads to problems. I personally have had no good results with Ben's Red or other hand made lubes. I've learned to either stick to the 50/50 mix or to purchase commercially made lubes.
Just my .02
Shot my G36 on Monday. 50 rounds Lee 230gr. TC in mixed cases over 4.5gr. Bullseye. One pass in the bore with brush followed by a CLP soaked patch. Good to go.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
I have run large numbers of cast bullets through Glock 45 ACPs. The 45 ACP is a pretty lead-friendly caliber, and the Glock twist rates in 45 ACP are "normal" and lead-friendly--1 turn/400mm (15.75"). I did not have ANY lead deposits, even after extensive shooting strings. .452" or .454" sizing did not matter--accuracy was constant, and clean-up was easy.
My over-riding concern with the 40/10 Glocks has been brass life and distention. So far that seems to be a non-issue. .401" sizing has worked very well in my CZ-75B x 40 S&W and in my S&W 1006 and 1026. All of these have slower "normal" twists (1-16"). In the 9mm, my best work came using relative hard alloy (92/6/2), soft lubes (50/50 Alox & BW) and throat-sizing. Basically--do the same things in the pistol that you do with a rifle to make castings behave themselves. I would like to see the castings work well in the Glocks and their OEM barrels. I did have a G-23 (now with our daughter in WA) and it has a Storm Lake barrel. .401" castings did well in that barrel; it too has 1-16 twist and lands & grooves rifling form. We will see what happens. Aftermarket barrels are always an option.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
I have 5 different 10mm and shoot lead through them all. 200 Grain WFN GC. Full house loads. Love the lead for the 10 it has great accuracy and fantastic lethality on game.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |