Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.
Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.
"Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson
"Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children
That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.
I found that using a thin paper card to hold the powder in place was exactly what WAS needed to make this work with a revolver... Had a few squib loads (primer only, I expect) in a batch of 38's, so I put 2.5gr Bullseye in a primed case and a "card" from standard letter paper (20# stock) and it was easy to clear a squib. Having that vent in front of the cylinder kept the pressure down, too...
Another plus to a proper cup point on the rod is that it tends to pull lead up and create a thinning effect on the bullet. How it was explained to me by the Otis demonstrator when I questioned how they work with just light taps. This was a jacketed bullet but it also measrusred a couple .001 undersized when removed from the bore. You could see where the core had been pulled up thru the hollow point. The cup pointed rod has several plusses to it.
LAGS mentioned the use of mercury to desolve the lead. I too have used it to clean the lead out of old barrels including whole bullets.To me this is the safest way to clear the bore. I picked up a big box of old mercury thermostats at a heating and cooling shop, they were glad to get rid of them.
When using mercury to dissolve a boolit, remove the action from the barrel and stand it in a clean bucket, so as to catch the liquid when it flows through. Don't leave it without a drip pan, or you are looking a Hazmat clean up. Keep the mercury in a sealed glass bottle in a well ventilated area when not in use. It can be re-used many times.
'
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Done this several times. Wrap a smooth steel rod (with two flat ends, edges broken) with electrical tape along its length, about every 6 inches or so, wrap until snug to the bore, the wrapped tape keeps the rod centered. Make very sure you have a wrap about 1/2 inch from the end to contact the bullet. Squirt Liquid Wrench (penetrating oil) in the bore, set in a corner upright and leave over night. You should need to push the rod down the bore if it is truly snug. Push it right up against the bullet. Drive the bullet the shortest distance out of the barrel with a heavy hammer blow. Use a wood block on the floor so the barrel can not move with the impact of the hammer. The bullet will come right out. If the bullet is half way, drive it in the direction it was moving to start with, the metal is already forged in that direction.
I use an issue cleaning rod for a 96 Swede and keep it around just for this purpose.
Ed
"Let us speak courteously, fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready."
Teddy Roosevelt, May 13, 1903
Tap out with a brass or aluminum rod
I ended up using the largest steel rod that would fit then rolling/wrapping it with blue tape to where it just fit in the barrel (no way to damage the barrel. I cut the rod 1 inch longer than the barrel, drilled and put a thick piece of rubber @ the end of the barrel to cushion any possible blow to the barrel. A couple taps with a 16 oz. was useless so I got a 5# short handle sledge. A couple taps -- boolit out and no damage done.
IF you are extremely concerned a gunsmith can remove it Hydraulicly with pressurized grease.
I also use mercury....But if the EPA finds out they may order your house demolished.....many years ago,i worked in a major hospital.The storemen used to tip the mercury out of every instrument,collect it for a year and sell it the guy who did the instrument repairs..... a storeman was admiring the big glass bottle of mercury and how much booze it would buy for the Christmas Party,when it shattered just from the weight in it.Probably 20lb or more.It went all over the floor of the hospital store,some was picked up,it separates into ever tinier balls,which is why its called quicksilver.No word ever reached the management,and most would still be there.Big joke on the EPA.One day Ill tell them.Be careful with mercury,and no glass bottles.
In the OP's first post he said he slugged the barrel with a pure lead slug and got .312. Then tried a hard led bullet with powder coat. Why would you try this? The pure lead bullet got you all the info you needed.
Leo
A familiar situation with subsonic FMJ load development. But I don't shoot them out.
I never "pound" them either. FMJ:s continue their travel by simply dropping a proper size metal rod on the bullet a few times from 5" or so. The bullet gets loose and drops right through the barrel. Penetrating oil won't hurt. The rod weight is enough.
"Pounding" it gets it stuck hard by deforming it,especially "pounding' from the tip end. Let the rod dance a couple of times on the boolit base. It will "snap" off.
Just my FMJ experiences though. Never stuck a cast,not yet.
Ouch the whole thought of "pounding" hurts.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |