RepackboxRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading Everything
Snyders JerkyWidenersLoad DataLee Precision
Inline Fabrication Titan Reloading
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 61 to 73 of 73

Thread: HELP: Bullet stuck in barrel

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master WILCO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    20 minutes from a Tiki Bar!
    Posts
    6,315
    Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.
    "Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson

    "Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children

    That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    1,210
    Quote Originally Posted by WILCO View Post
    Glad to know it's out. Bet you won't do it again.
    Exactly. I'm keeping that slug as a reminder.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy

    shooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    447
    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    Short blows with a heavy hammer are better than fast strikes with a lighter hammer.
    I agree with this. A steel rod close to bore size would be best. JMHO.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master
    StratsMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
    Posts
    575
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    I also have used Hatcher's method numerous times but generally use a starting load of whatever powder is being used. As did Hatcher I also don't use anything to hold the powder in the case. <snip> Note this method applies to closed breach actions and is not usually a successful method with revolvers.
    Larry Gibson
    I found that using a thin paper card to hold the powder in place was exactly what WAS needed to make this work with a revolver... Had a few squib loads (primer only, I expect) in a batch of 38's, so I put 2.5gr Bullseye in a primed case and a "card" from standard letter paper (20# stock) and it was easy to clear a squib. Having that vent in front of the cylinder kept the pressure down, too...

  5. #65
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,540
    Another plus to a proper cup point on the rod is that it tends to pull lead up and create a thinning effect on the bullet. How it was explained to me by the Otis demonstrator when I questioned how they work with just light taps. This was a jacketed bullet but it also measrusred a couple .001 undersized when removed from the bore. You could see where the core had been pulled up thru the hollow point. The cup pointed rod has several plusses to it.

  6. #66
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    31
    LAGS mentioned the use of mercury to desolve the lead. I too have used it to clean the lead out of old barrels including whole bullets.To me this is the safest way to clear the bore. I picked up a big box of old mercury thermostats at a heating and cooling shop, they were glad to get rid of them.

  7. #67
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Orange, VA NOW
    Posts
    6,520
    When using mercury to dissolve a boolit, remove the action from the barrel and stand it in a clean bucket, so as to catch the liquid when it flows through. Don't leave it without a drip pan, or you are looking a Hazmat clean up. Keep the mercury in a sealed glass bottle in a well ventilated area when not in use. It can be re-used many times.

    '
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  8. #68
    Boolit Buddy Sur-shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    223
    Done this several times. Wrap a smooth steel rod (with two flat ends, edges broken) with electrical tape along its length, about every 6 inches or so, wrap until snug to the bore, the wrapped tape keeps the rod centered. Make very sure you have a wrap about 1/2 inch from the end to contact the bullet. Squirt Liquid Wrench (penetrating oil) in the bore, set in a corner upright and leave over night. You should need to push the rod down the bore if it is truly snug. Push it right up against the bullet. Drive the bullet the shortest distance out of the barrel with a heavy hammer blow. Use a wood block on the floor so the barrel can not move with the impact of the hammer. The bullet will come right out. If the bullet is half way, drive it in the direction it was moving to start with, the metal is already forged in that direction.

    I use an issue cleaning rod for a 96 Swede and keep it around just for this purpose.
    Ed
    "Let us speak courteously, fairly, and keep ourselves armed and ready."
    Teddy Roosevelt, May 13, 1903

  9. #69
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    KY
    Posts
    73
    Tap out with a brass or aluminum rod

  10. #70
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    2,911
    I ended up using the largest steel rod that would fit then rolling/wrapping it with blue tape to where it just fit in the barrel (no way to damage the barrel. I cut the rod 1 inch longer than the barrel, drilled and put a thick piece of rubber @ the end of the barrel to cushion any possible blow to the barrel. A couple taps with a 16 oz. was useless so I got a 5# short handle sledge. A couple taps -- boolit out and no damage done.
    IF you are extremely concerned a gunsmith can remove it Hydraulicly with pressurized grease.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    2,146
    I also use mercury....But if the EPA finds out they may order your house demolished.....many years ago,i worked in a major hospital.The storemen used to tip the mercury out of every instrument,collect it for a year and sell it the guy who did the instrument repairs..... a storeman was admiring the big glass bottle of mercury and how much booze it would buy for the Christmas Party,when it shattered just from the weight in it.Probably 20lb or more.It went all over the floor of the hospital store,some was picked up,it separates into ever tinier balls,which is why its called quicksilver.No word ever reached the management,and most would still be there.Big joke on the EPA.One day Ill tell them.Be careful with mercury,and no glass bottles.

  12. #72
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Lebanon, NY
    Posts
    1,019
    In the OP's first post he said he slugged the barrel with a pure lead slug and got .312. Then tried a hard led bullet with powder coat. Why would you try this? The pure lead bullet got you all the info you needed.
    Leo

  13. #73
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    2,602
    Quote Originally Posted by cast367 View Post
    I had seen a FMJ bullit stuck halfway in a 30-06 barrel.The solution was simpel.A case filled with a normal powder load , a little dacron.
    Fired , and the bullit was removed.
    A familiar situation with subsonic FMJ load development. But I don't shoot them out.

    I never "pound" them either. FMJ:s continue their travel by simply dropping a proper size metal rod on the bullet a few times from 5" or so. The bullet gets loose and drops right through the barrel. Penetrating oil won't hurt. The rod weight is enough.

    "Pounding" it gets it stuck hard by deforming it,especially "pounding' from the tip end. Let the rod dance a couple of times on the boolit base. It will "snap" off.

    Just my FMJ experiences though. Never stuck a cast,not yet.

    Ouch the whole thought of "pounding" hurts.

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check