Hey Steve, Thanks for super fast shipping and your help on my order it arrived today. And just a quick note to anyone that may be on the fence with placing and order with you, DO NOT hesitate he is a great guy to deal with and You will get what you order plus. I ordered my brass late wed. afternoon and it was at my front door today!!
Terry
The thermostat on my convection oven is starting to fail, so I am looking at replacing with a PID controller.
My question is should I use the 40 amp SSR or the 100 amp SSR for each of the top and bottom elements? There is not much difference in the price.
Any opinions on which brand of PID to buy?
I'm running mine on a 20 amp SSR and it works fine.
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Originally Posted by ioon44
Look at what your plugging the oven into.
If it's a standard 120v USA outlet then then MAX would be 20 amps. Most are 15 amps.
If it's standard cooking oven then it's not gonna be over 50 amps total and that's for a double oven.
A 40amp SSR would be plenty regardless.
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Maybe I read your post wrong but, you are going to hook up two SSRs?
I believe when I built my PID I used a single 20 amp and it is hooked up to the wiring to turn on both of my elements, based on what the probe was telling it, through the power plug on the oven. It has been some time ago so it could be wrong and it could be a 40. It seems that I remember reading something about the 40 running a lower temperature than the 20 when used on US 110v 20amp power? Be sure and hook up a separate power cord to the fan or the PID will turn it off and you want it to run continuous. Anyway, there is a PID section in Castboolits. Just go there and read up.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Not to load up this thread with PDI chat, but a heads up.
When I was looking to build my PDI I stumbled across a warning about fake SSR's that may not hold up, I posted a thread with links here http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-don-t-hold-up or you can go right to here, same link as in the thread http://canada.ul.com/safetyalerts/ul...lease-13pn-52/
Be careful what you wish for!
Thanks for all the input.
My convection oven is a full size 220 v and I want to run top and bottom elements, just trying to figure out if I need 1 or 2 SSR's
That's a big oven. I was thinking Oster from Walmart. Except for the fan I withdraw the previous comments because I just don't know on that large of an oven.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
ioon44 - find the oven running current for 220V. IMHO I would run one big one, depending on HOW the oven is wired. The PID controller probably can't power 2 SSRs in parallel or series.
Whatever!
My wall oven in the house is 220 and has a 60 amp breaker.
Semper Fi!
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PM ausglock, I believe he is running 2 SSR's on his house oven, or if you want to dig you could find the post
Yep. I'm running a 40amp SSR for each heating element.
Tried running both elements through 1 SSR and it overheated and died.
Now each SSR hardly even gets warm.
Oven is running fine.
I have the controller running to a 20amp 12 volt/240volt SSR and then this SSR controlling the 2x 40 amp 240 volt/240voltSSRs. Fan is wired directly to main switch for constant operation, With a door switch to stop the fan when the door is opened.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Why do you have to use the 20 amp SSR to control the 2- 40 amp SSR's and do you have any pics of the finished wiring set up?
I read all the PID thread's but none seem to address a 220v full size oven, I am properly making this harder than it is.
Last lesson on electricity on this thread. -
220 is two hots and a ground.
All you have to do is break one hot and it kills the circuit.
Imagine a U heating element.
At the top of each of the U is going to be a hot wire. That is how 220 works.
The ground is just that a ground. It isn't designed to be part of the circuit.
So in order to switch the element on/off you just have to break one lead.
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Last edited by HATCH; 06-09-2017 at 06:30 PM.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
[QUOTE=ioon44;4069287]Why do you have to use the 20 amp SSR to control the 2- 40 amp SSR's and do you have any pics of the finished wiring set up?
He stated that the PID didn't have the power to control 2 SSR's so he used the PID to control the 20 amp SSR which in turn controlled the 2 40 amp SSR's
In my Whirlpool single 30" wall over set up for powder coating I run both 220 volt elements off one 40 amp SSR relay with a heatsink and fan. The relay's operating temperature is below 100 degrees.
You gotta remember... here in Australia our 240 volt ac is single phase. Our 3 phase is 415 volts.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
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