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Thread: M1 Carbine Restoration

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimb16 View Post
    Don't change the barrel yet! It may not be as bad as you think! Try having the muzzle counter-bored! That is what the military did to restore accuracy on carbines with worn muzzles! Many times that brings accuracy back to original specs!
    +1 Lots of peeps replaced the barrel and it was the muzzle! CMP tech forum has an article about throat wear and how most of the time machining the muzzle is the fix.

    I can't find the CMP article, but try cutting the muzzle first.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master
    Shiloh's Avatar
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    The firearms I have stock refinished were in sad shaper to begin with.
    When refinished, they ewre not done to make as new or museum pieces, just fix divots, bad dings, and dents. Arsenal stamps were left alone.
    All were finished with a dozen coats of 50/50 real turpentine/organic BLO and two passes with Johnson's past wax.

    A $150 military relic is not the same as Great-Great Grampa's, WWI war trophy Mauser that was in decent shape to begin with.
    The Korean returns that look like they were drug on a gravel road will NEVER be collector grade to begin with. Have at it.

    Shiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I've found that rubbing a walnut stock down with Balistol moistened patches can chemically age the surface of the wood bringing out figure that was not previously visible.
    On two of my rifles I have not used any finish at all, just buffed with oooo steel wool to defur the wood then rubbing it down with balistol every time I clean the rifle. Which is not difficult since I end up getting the balistol all over my hands and the rifle anyway.

    That's why I began using Balistol to begin with. Its the only strong solvent that's perfectly safe if contacting skin, and is even recommended as an emergency wound disinfectant. Its recommended for cleaning and protecting both wood and leather items.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, the stock on my carbine is birch. Big part of the reason I'm looking to replace it. A carbine just isn't that pretty without a walnut stock.

  5. #25
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    You gotta love the M1 Carbine- but only if it's accurate & reliable. Then make it pretty.
    I have seen a chrome plated M1 in the hands of the resort guard at a place we stayed in Zijuatenejo, Mexico 20 yrs ago. Yes, I asked to handle it and was politely refused permiso.....
    Best, Thomas.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I remember seeing chrome plated commercial M1 Carbines many years ago, I mainly remember these because they used a chromed steel ventilated hand guard. Stocks were nice as well.

    A stainless steel carbine clone with synthetic stock would be a good thing to have around, though I'd want to Cerakote the metal in midnight blue. I like stainless for a rifle because it does not get rusty not because its shiny. A shiny handgun is not so bad since it would spend most of its time in the holster.

    Seems to me that .30 carbine performance might be improved by using a copper alloy truncated cone hollow point of around 80 grains at a some what higher muzzle velocity.

    In Finnland they developed a 7mm necked down carbine case for shooting large birds. Something like turkey hunting here.
    They don't use these wildcat rounds in Carbines they built bolt action rifles chambered for this round.
    Surplus once fired .30 carbine cases must have been dirt cheap around there at the time.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Found someone nearby who has a muzzle wear gauge. Going to go check it out on Sunday.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Useful expedient muzzle wear gage is a .30-'06 Ball M1, Ball M2 or APM2 cartridge.

    Poke the bullet point of the '06 round into the carbine muzzle.

    If there is 1/4" or more between the muzzle of the carbine and the case mouth of the '06 round, the muzzle is not worn out. It MUST be true, because my platoon sergeant told me so, and we all know platoon segeant is ALWAYS right!
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Measured a 2 on the wear gauge. According to Fulton Armory, "2.0 is fair (.302 cal.). Proper re-crowning should make it serviceable."

    I bought a bore light and took a look inside. The rifling is clearly visible and shiny, but it is poorly defined compared to a few of my other firearms I also took a look at. I had already intended to replace it, and this is enough for my brain to feel good about it. I'll hang on to the old one (Underwood, 9-43), of course.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check